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I use recharge after a nights lampoing or just one run on big ears. Here is tghe info that comes with the drink and heae is a link to buy it . . .

 

http://www.greyhoundmegastore.com/page122.html

 

RECHARGE

Oral Rehydration Concentrate for Greyhounds

 

Special Features

Recharge for Greyhounds is one of the most successful greyhound specific products worldwide. The name "Recharge" is applicable to a product that rapidly replenishes electrolytes and fluids after travelling and racing. The product lives up to its name in providing a rapid restoration of fluid and vitality after stress periods.

 

The formulation is specifically matched to the needs of the racing greyhound, containing a high potassium to sodium ratio, citrate salt as a buffering agent and glucose to enhance rapid uptake of electrolytes and restore vitality. It is a different formulation to that contained in Recharge for Horses, as that formulation is designed to rapidly replace sweat loss after exercise in horses. Both products are totally different to the high sodium, salty tasting sports drinks available for human athletes and sports persons. These are not suited to racing greyhounds (or horses).

 

Recharge for Greyhounds is normally well accepted by greyhounds when given as a 10mL measure into 250mL (1 cupful) of cool water as a made-up drink. However, some greyhounds may not accept it initially in water. The water can be mixed 50:50 with milk to improve its acceptance, or in pure milk if necessary. However excess milk in a greyhound not accustomed to it can cause bowel intolerance to lactose, and result in low grade diarrhoea and risk of further dehydration.

 

Recharge concentrate can also be administered over the tongue by syringe, and this is the method by which it is most commonly given in the pre-race period, or after racing prior to the return journey, particularly during hot weather.

 

Note: When administering Recharge concentrate over the tongue do not exceed a 10mL volume at a single dose, and always provide fresh, cool water, or milky-water for the greyhound to drink to replenish fluids. Recharge will increase the thirst response, and fluid must be available immediately after dosage.

 

Avoid providing an excessive volume of fluid to drink prior to racing as the race-weight limit may be exceeded.

 

Benefits of the Formulation

Each 10mL of concentrate contains:

 

Ingredient

Amount

Benefit

 

Sodium

276mg

Essential for nerve and muscle function and thirst response after exercise.

 

Potassium

304mg

Higher amounts to counteract losses from travelling and pre-race excitement.

 

Chloride

433mg

Essential for kidney function and excretion.

 

Citrate

129mg

Provides indirect alkaline reserve after fast exercise to neutralise acids in muscle cells and blood.

 

Magnesium

29.8mg

Essential in enzyme action and energy production in muscles.

 

Glucose

2,600mg

Promotes rapid uptake of sodium and other salts as well as improves palatability and energy restoration.

 

Phosphate

174mg

Aids alkaline buffering action after fast galloping.

 

Note: Glycine

No glycine

Glycine is often included in rehydration fluids - it has no benefit in healthy animals and is very unstable during storage.

 

Handy Hints for Specific Purpose Use

 

HINT

Standard Doses

Before Travelling: 5mL Recharge in half a cup (125mL) of water.

During Travelling: hot weather, excitable greyhounds - 5mL Recharge in half a cup of water (125mL) every 1½-2 hours.

At Kennelling: Ensure bodyweight is not outside the ± 1kg racing limit for the greyhound.

Non-dehydrated, quiet kennel greyhounds: Give 5mL Recharge in half a cup (125 mL) water.

Dehydrated, Nervous, Excitable greyhounds: Give 10mL Recharge in 1 cupful water (limit amount to avoid exceeding weight limit).

After Racing: Give free access to 10mL Recharge in 1 cup of water prior to return travelling.

 

HINT

Cramping Greyhounds - dehydrated or excitable greyhounds

As well as 100iu White-E daily, 3g Betacel daily, and 10g Calci-D daily in feed, give 10mL Recharge in 1 cup of water morning and evening. Provide a bowl of made-up Recharge drink, and a bowl of fresh water, as a choice in the kennel.

 

HINT

Nursing Bitches - hot weather, large litters

Provide 40mL Recharge in 1 litre bowl of water at all times, with a bowl of fresh water as a choice to replace fluids and electrolytes depleted by milk production.

 

HINT

Pre-Race Dehydration - hot weather

Test for dehydration by pulling up a fold of skin on shoulder and estimating speed of skin return. If slow return, and greyhound is sunken in eye and is tucked up in the gut - it is dehydrated. Give 10mL Recharge Concentrate over the tongue morning and evening for 2 days prior to racing, provide fluid to drink and moisten the dry food by soaking for at least 15-20 minutes before feeding.

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All good info... Keep it going boys/girls....

Do any of yous make your own stuff up with Glucose/suger/Salt or what ever?

Heard a few people say they give them suger/glucose water during and after a hard nights run

And another thing is what would yous call a hard night on the lamp/or what ever that you feel that you need to yous supplements ??

Atb T 7

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Haven't used re-charge for a while good if you don't do it to strong.

 

Give 1/2 tea spoon of Feramo every other day.

 

Was told by grey trainer cod liver oil should only be given 3-4 times a week as daily can cause a vitamina A build up( Bad for liver).

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custard creams,mars bars :blink: i take a big tin of celebrations,to give the dog a choice :lol:

Never much of a party or anything to celebrate when you have 2 hours walk back to your car and your dog is showing signs of sugar and possible mineral depletion due to it being the best nights lamping you ever had. a He has nearly 30 bunnies under his belt andc there's no sign of getting worse. Your dogs stood there looking stressed the shaking is getting worse OMG is he going to fit ..

Come on get a grip the lad was asking for advice

some people on here realy cant take a joke can they :no:
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custard creams,mars bars :blink: i take a big tin of celebrations,to give the dog a choice :lol:

Never much of a party or anything to celebrate when you have 2 hours walk back to your car and your dog is showing signs of sugar and possible mineral depletion due to it being the best nights lamping you ever had. a He has nearly 30 bunnies under his belt andc there's no sign of getting worse. Your dogs stood there looking stressed the shaking is getting worse OMG is he going to fit ..

Come on get a grip the lad was asking for advice

some people on here realy cant take a joke can they :no:

your telling me mate,the lads asking for advice and some people tell him to give his dog poison(chocolate)and someone moans about me being sarcastic :hmm:

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I know that milk chocolate in small quantities isn't supposed to be dangerous to dogs, but I'd sooner have the dog on a very good diet, get it really fit before running it hard on game and use recharge after a particularly long run and when we get home.

Recharge is so much better than just glucose and water (see Doris' post). Giving glucose, either in the form or honey, sugar or chocolate just creates a 'black hole' of energy. Its a quick fix for low blood sugar and if the dog is allowed to carry on working hard afterwards it falls into an even bigger 'black hole' energywise.

 

Dogs derive their energy from fat (animal fat is best, with beef fat at the top of the list as far as its digestibility is concerned). If the dog is fit and getting enough good quality fat and protein in its diet then it shouldn't keel over when out working.

 

Carbs also give long lasting energy and pasta is a good easily digestible source of carbs, though dogs cant do 'carbo packing' like human athletes: they need a certain amount every day to utilise it properly.

 

Just one more thing (sorry! LOL) :::wouldn't it be better to call it a day when the dog is getting a little tired rather than letting it run just one more when its already done well? Signs are easy enough to read, slower recovery rate after each run: put your hand over the dog's ribs: feel the heart rate. Do it when at rest first so you know roughly what a resting heartbeat sounds/feels like. A dog's heart rate might still be sky high even if its stopped panting, and its the heart rate which indicates if the dog has recovered from the run: if the heart rate is still high after a couple of minutes then its time to call it a night, or day or whatever.

 

I know its easy to over run a keen dog if you are young and over keen yourself as the owner LOL, but the game will always be there for another day, and despite some peoples' idea that a big bag makes a good dog and the owner look good, there are no prizes for knackering a dog before its time.

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I know that milk chocolate in small quantities isn't supposed to be dangerous to dogs, but I'd sooner have the dog on a very good diet, get it really fit before running it hard on game and use recharge after a particularly long run and when we get home.

Recharge is so much better than just glucose and water (see Doris' post). Giving glucose, either in the form or honey, sugar or chocolate just creates a 'black hole' of energy. Its a quick fix for low blood sugar and if the dog is allowed to carry on working hard afterwards it falls into an even bigger 'black hole' energywise.

 

Dogs derive their energy from fat (animal fat is best, with beef fat at the top of the list as far as its digestibility is concerned). If the dog is fit and getting enough good quality fat and protein in its diet then it shouldn't keel over when out working.

 

Carbs also give long lasting energy and pasta is a good easily digestible source of carbs, though dogs cant do 'carbo packing' like human athletes: they need a certain amount every day to utilise it properly.

 

Just one more thing (sorry! LOL) :::wouldn't it be better to call it a day when the dog is getting a little tired rather than letting it run just one more when its already done well? Signs are easy enough to read, slower recovery rate after each run: put your hand over the dog's ribs: feel the heart rate. Do it when at rest first so you know roughly what a resting heartbeat sounds/feels like. A dog's heart rate might still be sky high even if its stopped panting, and its the heart rate which indicates if the dog has recovered from the run: if the heart rate is still high after a couple of minutes then its time to call it a night, or day or whatever.

 

I know its easy to over run a keen dog if you are young and over keen yourself as the owner LOL, but the game will always be there for another day, and despite some peoples' idea that a big bag makes a good dog and the owner look good, there are no prizes for knackering a dog before its time.

:clapper::clapper::clapper::clapper: spot on skycat

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Haven't used re-charge for a while good if you don't do it to strong.

 

Give 1/2 tea spoon of Feramo every other day.

 

Was told by grey trainer cod liver oil should only be given 3-4 times a week as daily can cause a vitamina A build up( Bad for liver).

in the case of codliver oil only 1 tbsp gives triple the amount of vit a and d that a human needs let alone a dog,the only reason to give a dog cod liver oil would be if it had ricketts or needed massive amounts of vit d for some reason.
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