A beginners guide to lurchers for beginners.

[wild rover 548]

A beginners guide to lurchers for beginners.

 

Before I go any further please allow me to explain, I am no dog expert, but I have trained my lurcher to a high standard, and I feel my experience while training my dog should be of benefit to any new comers to our sport who wish to take it on board.

 

There are four basic commands that all lurcher should be taught,

 

1. Sit

2. Stay

3. Recall

4. Retrieve

 

All the above commands can be taught to your puppy while you and the pup are getting to know each other; the best time to apply these commands is during play time. It’s most important to make each command session a fun time for the puppy.

 

Let’s look at the Sit command.

 

One of the easiest command to master, when teaching my pup to sit I always like him to be at my left side and facing forward, then with very gently assert pressure on his lower back while giving the command to sit, always reward him with a treat if he complies with your command. Repeat this exercise until the dog is sitting on command. I also like to go one step further with this command; I like to give the dog a hand signal to sit, at times when out in the field we need to be quiet, so when the pup has master the voice command of sit, I then click my fingers while placing my hand above his head and command him to sit, after awhile your dog will get the message and sit on command when your place your hand above his head.

 

Stay command.

 

There is no easy way to short cut this command. Command your dog to sit, stand in front of your dog and command him to stay with the palm of your hand facing him, when he moves towards you as all pups will do during training, you must return him to the same spot and again command him to stay with the palm of your hand facing him. This will take time, but your dog will get the message and obey your command. Again reward him for obeying your command. You are now well on your way to having a working dog that will brings years of joy and happiness to your life.

 

The next command to me is the most important one, the recall is a must for all dogs, and it can be the difference between a good dog and a dog that will cause havoc in the field.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Recall.

 

This command can be the most important piece of the jigsaw when training your dog, a dog that refuses to come back on recall is a disaster waiting to happen. Unless my dog is fully trained on the recall I won’t take him hunting, he will have every bunny running for cover, and this is not the ideal situation and your friend’s wont thank you for it.

 

Once you have mastered the stay commend, then the recall will come natural to your dog. Again this exercise can be carried out in the comfort of your garden. Command your dog to sit and stay, walk away from him, now stop and turn to face your dog, with your two arms open wide call your dog to you making sure to use an excited voice when calling him, the command I use when call him in is as follows, Come, sharp and clear. Again reward him with a wee treat and heap plenty of praise onto him, take as much time as you need to master this command, as it’s the one that will save your bacon some day. There is nothing worse then a dog chasing stock in the field, which brings me onto another subject that I suppose, is as important as the above commands.

 

Stock breaking your pup is a must and all pups should be introduced to live stock at an early age, a simple task of walking among sheep while you pup is on the lead is the start, should the pup show any form of interest towards the live stock then a wee gentle pull on the lead followed by the word NO should get the penny to drop. Again take as much time as you like when stock training your puppy.

 

The Retrieve.

 

This command is without doubt the one we rabbit men like to master, there is no greater pleasure that watching your dog retrieve a rabbit to hand. This command is taught at a very early stage of the pup’s life, while the pup may not know what we are teaching him at that time, it’s the foundation that will help you to master the command when the pup is much older and can understand what you expect from him.

 

I suppose it all starts with the throwing of the ball or furry toy, I much prefer a rabbit skin that has been stuffed with straw, and the pup will get the fell for the real thing. As with all the above commands practice makes perfect. All puppies will chase and retrieve the toy, once we have him showing interest in the toy we can encourage him to retrieve it by means of little treats. I really think that the retrieve is the easiest command to teach your puppy, it’s the next step in the training that I feel will be of most benefit to your puppy. Once you are happy that your pup is now retrieving to hand its time to introduce him to the lamp, this training should take place in the confines of your garden until you have master the task at hand. During darkness have your pup sit and stay, show him the lure that he has been trained on and throw it down the garden, now shine the lamp on the lure and command your pup to fetch, as with all commands this will take time, but will give you the head start when you do take to the field with him, he will be used to looking down the beam and should help him spotting rabbits. I trained my pup for six weeks using this method and she is a demon on the bunnies, even right from the start, mind you she did not catch every bunny she seen, but she was well aware that once the lamp was switched on it indicated to her that fun time was about to start.

 

I know that people have their own methods of training their dogs and I am sure that have proven successful in the past, this is just how I went about training my pup and it have proven to be successful for me.

 

 

STARTING A LAMPING PUP

 

By The Wild Rover

 

 

Having read many articles in the Countrymans over the last few years regarding the subject of starting young lurchers lamping, I decided to throw in my twopenneth, much advice has been given in the past but no detailed methods of preparing young dogs for lamping has been explained and because non of the writers touched on the methods used by my friends and I, I thought I would give the readers an insight into our way of doing things with which we have had considerable success.

 

All the following training tips are carried out whilst our pup is having basic training waiting to start work, all the usual, heel, sit, stay, down type of stuff learned it is time to move onto retrieving, which the pup will have been doing in some form since it was about 8 weeks old, only you will know when the time is right but the next stage shouldn’t be started until your pup has mastered the daytime retrieve from all types of cover from reed beds, rock and river, thick heavy fields to lush grassland this will vary from dog to dog, some will be ready at 6 months , some may take longer.

 

 

I am talking about lamp retrieving training, the methods we use teaches young lurchers several essential arts of lamping that they will need to master when they are ready for the real thing, including working off the slip lead, running the beam, spotting their quarry, picking up sitters and of course retrieving and finally returning when the lamp is knocked off.

 

All these skills will be learnt over many nights over the coming weeks, one stage at a time.

To start with you need to take your favourite dummy preferably with a rabbit skin attached and stick a good sized piece of reflective material to it, the type found on hi - visibility jackets used for cycling or the type road workers wear, this will enable the pup to spot the dummy when the lamp shines on it, have plenty because you will need to use 2-3 dummies in the final stages of training.

 

You will find it best to start on ground that the pup is familiar with, with nice short grass, if you have a decent sized garden this will do, I am fortunate I have a park opposite my house that the council keep in good nick, this is where I do my training when it is quiet.

 

The first lesson for our pup is to be accustomed to walking off the slip at heel in the dark, whilst doing this use the lamp and flash it on and off all around at regular intervals, talk to the pup, if the pup strays or is inquisitive use your command for heel, don’t be afraid to talk, silence is not needed during training lessons, your pup should be used to the dark at this age but if it shows signs of being nervous, comfort and encourage it.

 

After a couple of nights of this the pup should be confident to move onto the next stage, sitting and staying, this will learn the pup that there is nothing to fear from being alone in the dark and that you will return, just as you have done in daylight, start off in contact then lengthen the distance, use your commands and the lamp to let the pup see you.

 

Once you are happy and your pup is happy, we are now ready to try a simple retrieve, have your pup at heel, show and let it smell the dummy, then as with all retrieve training start off throwing it about 10 – 12 feet away but make sure you have the lamp on so the pup sees everything happen, it will have seen the dummy land and the reflective strip should help catch it’s eye, then send the pup to fetch the dummy.

 

If the pup has been paying attention it should bound away to pick the dummy up and return to you just as you have taught it in daytime, if all goes to plan once more then lengthen your next throw, not too far about 20- 25 feet and repeat the exercise, if all is ok extend the distance but call it a night after half a dozen or so retrieves, always heap loads of praise on your youngster, as I said at this stage noise is not a problem.

 

Any problems, start at the beginning, plenty of lamp light and short retrieves until the pup is confidently retrieving, don’t overdo it and don’t show any frustrations, if not going to plan, pack in on a good note, try again the next night, you know your pup best, some click on quicker than others.

 

Having spent a couple of nights doing the retrieves and the distance increased, now is the time to leave the lamp off when you throw the dummy, once again start with a short distance and increase, keeping the pup at your side turn the lamp on the dummy, it should be able to see it, watch the pups head it should be focused on where the dummy is, give your signal for the pup to go, I generally use a hissing sound to put my lurcher onto something.

 

Away it should go picking up and returning the dummy, if your pup hasn’t spotted the dummy, turn the lamp on and off a couple of times, it should spot it with the assistance of the reflective strip, then when sure send the pup on.

 

Repeat this exercise over the next few nights and pretty soon the penny will have dropped, your pup should be spotting and retrieving the dummy from a good distance, this has taught your pup to run down the beam because it expects the dummy to be at the end of the beam and it will do this as routine.

 

At this stage I should mention that at any point in the training exercises where your pup runs out and does not pick up the dummy, or wanders about, turn the lamp onto your feet and shout the pup back to you.

You can also do this exercise by sending the pup out when no dummy has been thrown, call it in immediately it realises it can’t see anything and put the lamp on your feet so it can see you, this is where plenty of praise is given, and always finish off by letting it run out and find a dummy.

 

This learns the pup to return to you as soon as you put the lamp on your feet, with experience of this it will return as soon as the lamp is knocked off.

 

By now your pup should be really confident on the lamp, time to place 2-3 dummy’s around the place prior to taking the pup out, then select one at a time and send the pup out as soon as it has retrieved each dummy, until all have been recovered, do this two or three times over the next couple of nights, another valuable lesson learnt, consecutive retrieves.

If not going to plan start again with single retrieves and build up, when your pup is ready try again.

 

 

After a couple of weeks of practising all the exercises you both should be ready to move onto more difficult terrain, thicker grass and broken cover, start again short distance and make sure the reflective strip can be spotted on the lamp, all the earlier training will now come into play, with the pup running down the beam and spotting the dummy in cover.

 

Practice this again over a couple of weeks, if the pup struggles, make it easy or shorter until it grasps the idea, which it should with its earlier experiences.

 

Another exercise to practice is jumping on the lamp, pick a small fence, one that the pup is familiar with, use the lamp and send the pup over on command, when you think your pup is confident, vary the use of the lamp from full on to faint light, all the time they should be jumping with ease.

 

My friends and I have been using this method over the past few years with good results, when our young dogs have been taken out for the first time on the lamp the only thing they have had to get used to is handling live rabbits, which it may have experienced already, all the rest they have been practising for months.

 

Some lurcher owners believe that a lamping lurcher either takes sitters or they don’t, using this method has ensured that to date I have never had a lurcher that didn’t take sitters, or that didn’t turn out to be a reasonable well trained lamper and I guarantee you have given your pup the best start to it’s lamping career.

 

Louis123

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

.

 

A well trained dog will hunt and catch as many rabbits as a untrained dog, lets use common sense ,there are times when a few commands are useful, especially when ferreting.

What is wrong with training your lurcher, it doesnt fill their heads with rubbish, they are more than capable of learning and retaining knowledge without losing their work drive.

Some breeds are not capable of absorbing as much as others and it is horses for courses, but training a lurcher does not remove any of its ability to work. It enhances it, many people don't know how to train a lurcher, which is sometimes disguised by "they dont need it" fine if thats what you want.

 

We shouldn't knock those who do want it, now Im not the worlds greatest hunter but I getting on in age, have had lurchers for years, worked them to all quarry over the years in many areas of the country and I know what I prefer, keep up the training.

[anythingoes 28]

A beginners guide to lurchers for beginners.

 

Before I go any further please allow me to explain, I am no dog expert, but I have trained my lurcher to a high standard, and I feel my experience while training my dog should be of benefit to any new comers to our sport who wish to take it on board.

 

There are four basic commands that all lurcher should be taught,

 

1. Sit

2. Stay

3. Recall

4. Retrieve

 

All the above commands can be taught to your puppy while you and the pup are getting to know each other; the best time to apply these commands is during play time. It's most important to make each command session a fun time for the puppy.

 

Let's look at the Sit command.

 

One of the easiest command to master, when teaching my pup to sit I always like him to be at my left side and facing forward, then with very gently assert pressure on his lower back while giving the command to sit, always reward him with a treat if he complies with your command. Repeat this exercise until the dog is sitting on command. I also like to go one step further with this command; I like to give the dog a hand signal to sit, at times when out in the field we need to be quiet, so when the pup has master the voice command of sit, I then click my fingers while placing my hand above his head and command him to sit, after awhile your dog will get the message and sit on command when your place your hand above his head.

 

Stay command.

 

There is no easy way to short cut this command. Command your dog to sit, stand in front of your dog and command him to stay with the palm of your hand facing him, when he moves towards you as all pups will do during training, you must return him to the same spot and again command him to stay with the palm of your hand facing him. This will take time, but your dog will get the message and obey your command. Again reward him for obeying your command. You are now well on your way to having a working dog that will brings years of joy and happiness to your life.

 

The next command to me is the most important one, the recall is a must for all dogs, and it can be the difference between a good dog and a dog that will cause havoc in the field.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Recall.

 

This command can be the most important piece of the jigsaw when training your dog, a dog that refuses to come back on recall is a disaster waiting to happen. Unless my dog is fully trained on the recall I won't take him hunting, he will have every bunny running for cover, and this is not the ideal situation and your friend's wont thank you for it.

 

Once you have mastered the stay commend, then the recall will come natural to your dog. Again this exercise can be carried out in the comfort of your garden. Command your dog to sit and stay, walk away from him, now stop and turn to face your dog, with your two arms open wide call your dog to you making sure to use an excited voice when calling him, the command I use when call him in is as follows, Come, sharp and clear. Again reward him with a wee treat and heap plenty of praise onto him, take as much time as you need to master this command, as it's the one that will save your bacon some day. There is nothing worse then a dog chasing stock in the field, which brings me onto another subject that I suppose, is as important as the above commands.

 

Stock breaking your pup is a must and all pups should be introduced to live stock at an early age, a simple task of walking among sheep while you pup is on the lead is the start, should the pup show any form of interest towards the live stock then a wee gentle pull on the lead followed by the word NO should get the penny to drop. Again take as much time as you like when stock training your puppy.

 

The Retrieve.

 

This command is without doubt the one we rabbit men like to master, there is no greater pleasure that watching your dog retrieve a rabbit to hand. This command is taught at a very early stage of the pup's life, while the pup may not know what we are teaching him at that time, it's the foundation that will help you to master the command when the pup is much older and can understand what you expect from him.

 

I suppose it all starts with the throwing of the ball or furry toy, I much prefer a rabbit skin that has been stuffed with straw, and the pup will get the fell for the real thing. As with all the above commands practice makes perfect. All puppies will chase and retrieve the toy, once we have him showing interest in the toy we can encourage him to retrieve it by means of little treats. I really think that the retrieve is the easiest command to teach your puppy, it's the next step in the training that I feel will be of most benefit to your puppy. Once you are happy that your pup is now retrieving to hand its time to introduce him to the lamp, this training should take place in the confines of your garden until you have master the task at hand. During darkness have your pup sit and stay, show him the lure that he has been trained on and throw it down the garden, now shine the lamp on the lure and command your pup to fetch, as with all commands this will take time, but will give you the head start when you do take to the field with him, he will be used to looking down the beam and should help him spotting rabbits. I trained my pup for six weeks using this method and she is a demon on the bunnies, even right from the start, mind you she did not catch every bunny she seen, but she was well aware that once the lamp was switched on it indicated to her that fun time was about to start.

 

I know that people have their own methods of training their dogs and I am sure that have proven successful in the past, this is just how I went about training my pup and it have proven to be successful for me.

 

 

STARTING A LAMPING PUP

 

By The Wild Rover

 

 

Having read many articles in the Countrymans over the last few years regarding the subject of starting young lurchers lamping, I decided to throw in my twopenneth, much advice has been given in the past but no detailed methods of preparing young dogs for lamping has been explained and because non of the writers touched on the methods used by my friends and I, I thought I would give the readers an insight into our way of doing things with which we have had considerable success.

 

All the following training tips are carried out whilst our pup is having basic training waiting to start work, all the usual, heel, sit, stay, down type of stuff learned it is time to move onto retrieving, which the pup will have been doing in some form since it was about 8 weeks old, only you will know when the time is right but the next stage shouldn't be started until your pup has mastered the daytime retrieve from all types of cover from reed beds, rock and river, thick heavy fields to lush grassland this will vary from dog to dog, some will be ready at 6 months , some may take longer.

 

 

I am talking about lamp retrieving training, the methods we use teaches young lurchers several essential arts of lamping that they will need to master when they are ready for the real thing, including working off the slip lead, running the beam, spotting their quarry, picking up sitters and of course retrieving and finally returning when the lamp is knocked off.

 

All these skills will be learnt over many nights over the coming weeks, one stage at a time.

To start with you need to take your favourite dummy preferably with a rabbit skin attached and stick a good sized piece of reflective material to it, the type found on hi - visibility jackets used for cycling or the type road workers wear, this will enable the pup to spot the dummy when the lamp shines on it, have plenty because you will need to use 2-3 dummies in the final stages of training.

 

You will find it best to start on ground that the pup is familiar with, with nice short grass, if you have a decent sized garden this will do, I am fortunate I have a park opposite my house that the council keep in good nick, this is where I do my training when it is quiet.

 

The first lesson for our pup is to be accustomed to walking off the slip at heel in the dark, whilst doing this use the lamp and flash it on and off all around at regular intervals, talk to the pup, if the pup strays or is inquisitive use your command for heel, don't be afraid to talk, silence is not needed during training lessons, your pup should be used to the dark at this age but if it shows signs of being nervous, comfort and encourage it.

 

After a couple of nights of this the pup should be confident to move onto the next stage, sitting and staying, this will learn the pup that there is nothing to fear from being alone in the dark and that you will return, just as you have done in daylight, start off in contact then lengthen the distance, use your commands and the lamp to let the pup see you.

 

Once you are happy and your pup is happy, we are now ready to try a simple retrieve, have your pup at heel, show and let it smell the dummy, then as with all retrieve training start off throwing it about 10 – 12 feet away but make sure you have the lamp on so the pup sees everything happen, it will have seen the dummy land and the reflective strip should help catch it's eye, then send the pup to fetch the dummy.

 

If the pup has been paying attention it should bound away to pick the dummy up and return to you just as you have taught it in daytime, if all goes to plan once more then lengthen your next throw, not too far about 20- 25 feet and repeat the exercise, if all is ok extend the distance but call it a night after half a dozen or so retrieves, always heap loads of praise on your youngster, as I said at this stage noise is not a problem.

 

Any problems, start at the beginning, plenty of lamp light and short retrieves until the pup is confidently retrieving, don't overdo it and don't show any frustrations, if not going to plan, pack in on a good note, try again the next night, you know your pup best, some click on quicker than others.

 

Having spent a couple of nights doing the retrieves and the distance increased, now is the time to leave the lamp off when you throw the dummy, once again start with a short distance and increase, keeping the pup at your side turn the lamp on the dummy, it should be able to see it, watch the pups head it should be focused on where the dummy is, give your signal for the pup to go, I generally use a hissing sound to put my lurcher onto something.

 

Away it should go picking up and returning the dummy, if your pup hasn't spotted the dummy, turn the lamp on and off a couple of times, it should spot it with the assistance of the reflective strip, then when sure send the pup on.

 

Repeat this exercise over the next few nights and pretty soon the penny will have dropped, your pup should be spotting and retrieving the dummy from a good distance, this has taught your pup to run down the beam because it expects the dummy to be at the end of the beam and it will do this as routine.

 

At this stage I should mention that at any point in the training exercises where your pup runs out and does not pick up the dummy, or wanders about, turn the lamp onto your feet and shout the pup back to you.

You can also do this exercise by sending the pup out when no dummy has been thrown, call it in immediately it realises it can't see anything and put the lamp on your feet so it can see you, this is where plenty of praise is given, and always finish off by letting it run out and find a dummy.

 

This learns the pup to return to you as soon as you put the lamp on your feet, with experience of this it will return as soon as the lamp is knocked off.

 

By now your pup should be really confident on the lamp, time to place 2-3 dummy's around the place prior to taking the pup out, then select one at a time and send the pup out as soon as it has retrieved each dummy, until all have been recovered, do this two or three times over the next couple of nights, another valuable lesson learnt, consecutive retrieves.

If not going to plan start again with single retrieves and build up, when your pup is ready try again.

 

 

After a couple of weeks of practising all the exercises you both should be ready to move onto more difficult terrain, thicker grass and broken cover, start again short distance and make sure the reflective strip can be spotted on the lamp, all the earlier training will now come into play, with the pup running down the beam and spotting the dummy in cover.

 

Practice this again over a couple of weeks, if the pup struggles, make it easy or shorter until it grasps the idea, which it should with its earlier experiences.

 

Another exercise to practice is jumping on the lamp, pick a small fence, one that the pup is familiar with, use the lamp and send the pup over on command, when you think your pup is confident, vary the use of the lamp from full on to faint light, all the time they should be jumping with ease.

 

My friends and I have been using this method over the past few years with good results, when our young dogs have been taken out for the first time on the lamp the only thing they have had to get used to is handling live rabbits, which it may have experienced already, all the rest they have been practising for months.

 

Some lurcher owners believe that a lamping lurcher either takes sitters or they don't, using this method has ensured that to date I have never had a lurcher that didn't take sitters, or that didn't turn out to be a reasonable well trained lamper and I guarantee you have given your pup the best start to it's lamping career.

 

Louis123

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

.

 

A well trained dog will hunt and catch as many rabbits as a untrained dog, lets use common sense ,there are times when a few commands are useful, especially when ferreting.

What is wrong with training your lurcher, it doesnt fill their heads with rubbish, they are more than capable of learning and retaining knowledge without losing their work drive.

Some breeds are not capable of absorbing as much as others and it is horses for courses, but training a lurcher does not remove any of its ability to work. It enhances it, many people don't know how to train a lurcher, which is sometimes disguised by "they dont need it" fine if thats what you want.

 

We shouldn't knock those who do want it, now Im not the worlds greatest hunter but I getting on in age, have had lurchers for years, worked them to all quarry over the years in many areas of the country and I know what I prefer, keep up the training.

100% spot on

[undisputed 1,664]

a dog cant catch a rabbit laid down or sat and how is it ever going to find one if its being told to stay. sit lay down or what ever other bollox its head is going to be filled with i dont know theres more idiots coming into the lurcher world every day im off ive suffered enough

 

 

Another point and slip man.. ..your really showing yourself up tonight aint ya! half wild man with a half wild dog (half witted).....does that mean your leaving us seeing as you've suffered enough...the place wont be the same without your pearls of wisdom

let me assure you of something jack if i never went out with a dog again i will still have done more than you and caught more gear than you are likely to ever do the trouble with the computer is its gives little pencil dick twats like you the self assumed power to preach the bollox you do spout to the experienced dog man you are very easy to see through (a complete novice ) and any time you ever fancy a little walk out so as i can teach you a few tricks your more than welcome and ps i breed my own dogs enter em and train em do a little bit of research on me jack and you will see my and my dogs reputation speaks for its self i dont have to rely on a silly old farmer to breed me a second rate dog from second rate rubbish like you do i personally see through you and all you are mate is a bluffer now go and tap on your keyboard and pretend your another big hunter you clown and like a few other good dogmen of late who have left this site because of the likes of you im gone good bye

Class exit mate,that reads very acurate and to the point,not the last though i hope,

 

 

You wouldn't know class if it bit you in the arse! and it wont be his last post you can bet on that

[undisputed 1,664]

a dog cant catch a rabbit laid down or sat and how is it ever going to find one if its being told to stay. sit lay down or what ever other bollox its head is going to be filled with i dont know theres more idiots coming into the lurcher world every day im off ive suffered enough

 

 

Another point and slip man.. ..your really showing yourself up tonight aint ya! half wild man with a half wild dog (half witted).....does that mean your leaving us seeing as you've suffered enough...the place wont be the same without your pearls of wisdom

let me assure you of something jack if i never went out with a dog again i will still have done more than you and caught more gear than you are likely to ever do the trouble with the computer is its gives little pencil dick twats like you the self assumed power to preach the bollox you do spout to the experienced dog man you are very easy to see through (a complete novice ) and any time you ever fancy a little walk out so as i can teach you a few tricks your more than welcome and ps i breed my own dogs enter em and train em do a little bit of research on me jack and you will see my and my dogs reputation speaks for its self i dont have to rely on a silly old farmer to breed me a second rate dog from second rate rubbish like you do i personally see through you and all you are mate is a bluffer now go and tap on your keyboard and pretend your another big hunter you clown and like a few other good dogmen of late who have left this site because of the likes of you im gone good bye

Class exit mate,that reads very acurate and to the point,not the last though i hope,

 

 

You wouldn't know class if it bit you in the arse! and it wont be his last post you can bet on that

 

obviously you dont!! If you new the man you would know he breeds and runs top class dogs,Im off out with mine now for some daytime exersise for them and will be happy if they are anywhere near as good as his when he comes up in the next couple of weeks,Id be more than happy also to walk out with yours if they are that sutton coldfeild farm bred shit,?I bred my own aswell and wouldnt touch his with yours.A man that has to buy his dogs from there has no grounds to debate class.

 

 

Your right I dont know the lad or his dogs but his post on training speaks volumes for him your obviously a disciple so no point trying to debate anything with you. The problem with being a blind follower is that you dont get to think for yourself, so I hope you and brookie will be very happy together with your TOP CLASS dogs. How much do you sell yours for....or are you one of those who only give them to true lurcher men....and why is it that the majority of folk who have a problem with " sutton coalfield bred shit" are breeders themselves?

Edited February 16, 2009 by undisputed

[FenMaster 2]

undisputed number one cock you wouldnt begin to know what a dog is about. youve shown your colours with the rubbish you bawl out i know brookie and i an tell you your 3rd division compared to him youd be better or it if you kept your trap shut and listened you would learn somethng then and as for being a disciple i make my own mind up about people and im afraid to say im with spirit on this one

[undisputed 1,664]

undisputed number one cock you wouldnt begin to know what a dog is about. youve shown your colours with the rubbish you bawl out i know brookie and i an tell you your 3rd division compared to him youd be better or it if you kept your trap shut and listened you would learn somethng then and as for being a disciple i make my own mind up about people and im afraid to say im with spirit on this one

 

Another one of brookies groupies.....nice ring to it too. I'm any division you want me to be fellah, I obviously cant compete with your zen master or any of his followers so you toddle of to where ever it is you go and I'll stay here in the lower ranks. Just be careful if your out lamping with brookie though cause if he ever comes to a sudden halt your heads gonna disappear up his arse. Happy hunting limpdick!

[undisputed 1,664]

undisputed number one cock you wouldnt begin to know what a dog is about. youve shown your colours with the rubbish you bawl out i know brookie and i an tell you your 3rd division compared to him youd be better or it if you kept your trap shut and listened you would learn somethng then and as for being a disciple i make my own mind up about people and im afraid to say im with spirit on this one

 

Another one of brookies groupies.....nice ring to it too. I'm any division you want me to be fellah, I obviously cant compete with your zen master or any of his followers so you toddle of to where ever it is you go and I'll stay here in the lower ranks. Just be careful if your out lamping with brookie though cause if he ever comes to a sudden halt your heads gonna disappear up his arse. Happy hunting limpdick!

No mate you most definately couldnt compeat,FACT!! whats with the gunsmile??? he trembles as he types!! compensateing for somthing?? your dog or youself?? Cock!!

 

Out of curiosity your not a coursing man by any chance?.....gunsmile! thought it looked funny what could I be compensating for???