Waz 4,274 Posted February 2, 2009 Report Share Posted February 2, 2009 Is this necessary, by incubation disinfectant im talking about the 100:1 to add humidity. Ive just put in tepid tap water. But should I rush out and buy some of this product? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NID 0 Posted February 2, 2009 Report Share Posted February 2, 2009 Hi Waz,when i was working at falconry breeding centre we used distilled water,atb NID Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DUCKWING 302 Posted February 2, 2009 Report Share Posted February 2, 2009 THERES CERTAIN PRODUCTS I ALWAYS DIP MY EGGS IN .......... PRE INCUBATION IMO..... MAKES A HELL OF A DIFFERENCE DUCKWING Quote Link to post Share on other sites
black bird 1 Posted February 4, 2009 Report Share Posted February 4, 2009 DUCKWING said: THERES CERTAIN PRODUCTS I ALWAYS DIP MY EGGS IN .......... PRE INCUBATION IMO..... MAKES A HELL OF A DIFFERENCE DUCKWING why do you do that Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bootsha 1,306 Posted February 4, 2009 Report Share Posted February 4, 2009 Get Miltons sterilising solution from the chemist, I use it every time, it works a treat and is cheap compared with the so called "proper" incubation disinfectants. Hope this helps. WAB Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waz 4,274 Posted February 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2009 WAB do you add this to the water for increase humidity &/or as an pre incubation eggwash? Guess it can be used also to sterilise the incubator? Thanks. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bootsha 1,306 Posted February 5, 2009 Report Share Posted February 5, 2009 Hi GD I use it to wash and sterilise the incubator and all other relevant equipment, I dont wash my eggs before incubating as long as they are not dirty to start with, but I dilute it at the recomended rate for general disinfecting and use it mixed, in the water troughs in my octagon as the humidity solution, by doing this it will kill any bacteria present on the eggs and also sterilise the air circulaying around the eggs. Works for me every time. Hope this helps you out mate. ATB WAB Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waz 4,274 Posted February 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2009 Yep, great help, will get some sorted. Appreciate the info Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jasper65 6 Posted February 5, 2009 Report Share Posted February 5, 2009 Just before I fire up the Incubators/Hatchers and Brooder March time I spray them out with Virkon! I leave them for a while before turning them on to dry out and leaving to run for a good 12 hours to stabilize... On the humidity side of things I never add water in the Grumbach forced air Incubator, I only add water in the still air Hatcher when eggs are placed in there at Pip stage, Humidity in there is around 60% or slightly higher running at 37. 3 - 5 centigrade... with 99% of the eggs I weigh down most need drying out due to loseing weight too slow, I end up putting holes in the airsac end to help dry them out more and even in the past sanding the egg at the egg sac end, its easier to put a hole in as I can control the weight loss easier this way. we calabrate the Humidity meters but find it difficult to get it down less than 35% in the Incubator end of march. if I added water to the Inc it would obvioulsy go up higher and I need to get it down lower, it seems that in the UK the Humidity is plenty wet enough for what I am doing here without water being added, holeing the eggs helps no end! I have also used a heavy duty DeHumidifier in the Incubator room in the past to help get the Humidity down... birds don't have sweat glands which is why they feel a bit Talcy on their skin! they don't sweat on eggs as alot of people think, when they sit their eggs they dry them out so that the egg loses sufficient weight at pip! this was calculated to be 15% loss as a general rule of thumb which works well but eggs will still hatch at high or lower percentages, either way getting it close to the 15% will improve your hatchability rate. I use a little program on the pc which will give me a graph to follow, every other day I add the weight of the egg! this will then show me my graph in red and the graph below I should be following! I then know if I need to dry the eggs out more or less until I get my line virtually in line with the other at the pip stage... if I can get the Humidity running around 25 - 30% in the incubator its not far off! I'm sure with Game birds or poultry life should be alot easier cheers Jasper Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Keswick 119 Posted February 6, 2009 Report Share Posted February 6, 2009 Jasper, your the first person i have come across that is actually doing it right Humidity levels in the country have rose over the last 100 years or so and the average humidity is now % Incubtion period doesnt need any water added, unless it is in a weird situation where the ambient humidity is abnormally low. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
steviebhoy 0 Posted February 6, 2009 Report Share Posted February 6, 2009 jasper65 said: Just before I fire up the Incubators/Hatchers and Brooder March time I spray them out with Virkon! I leave them for a while before turning them on to dry out and leaving to run for a good 12 hours to stabilize... On the humidity side of things I never add water in the Grumbach forced air Incubator, I only add water in the still air Hatcher when eggs are placed in there at Pip stage, Humidity in there is around 60% or slightly higher running at 37. 3 - 5 centigrade... with 99% of the eggs I weigh down most need drying out due to loseing weight too slow, I end up putting holes in the airsac end to help dry them out more and even in the past sanding the egg at the egg sac end, its easier to put a hole in as I can control the weight loss easier this way. we calabrate the Humidity meters but find it difficult to get it down less than 35% in the Incubator end of march. if I added water to the Inc it would obvioulsy go up higher and I need to get it down lower, it seems that in the UK the Humidity is plenty wet enough for what I am doing here without water being added, holeing the eggs helps no end! I have also used a heavy duty DeHumidifier in the Incubator room in the past to help get the Humidity down... birds don't have sweat glands which is why they feel a bit Talcy on their skin! they don't sweat on eggs as alot of people think, when they sit their eggs they dry them out so that the egg loses sufficient weight at pip! this was calculated to be 15% loss as a general rule of thumb which works well but eggs will still hatch at high or lower percentages, either way getting it close to the 15% will improve your hatchability rate. I use a little program on the pc which will give me a graph to follow, every other day I add the weight of the egg! this will then show me my graph in red and the graph below I should be following! I then know if I need to dry the eggs out more or less until I get my line virtually in line with the other at the pip stage... if I can get the Humidity running around 25 - 30% in the incubator its not far off! I'm sure with Game birds or poultry life shouldn't be alot easier cheers Jasper Cracking post jasper and i will keep all that in mind but on your Virkon piece i was told different. I also used Virkon in the cleaning of my incubators and hatchers and was told to stop that as it corrodes metal, this was by the guy from Marcon. I had been noticing my hatchers water trays were becoming pitted and after stopping the Virkon it stopped the problem. I spoke to a keeper i know who also had the same problem and he too was using Virkon. Before i go though i must say that Virkon is the dogs nuts on anything from cleaning equip' to drinking water. Cheers Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jasper65 6 Posted February 6, 2009 Report Share Posted February 6, 2009 steviebhoy said: Cracking post jasper and i will keep all that in mind but on your Virkon piece i was told different. I also used Virkon in the cleaning of my incubators and hatchers and was told to stop that as it corrodes metal, this was by the guy from Marcon. I had been noticing my hatchers water trays were becoming pitted and after stopping the Virkon it stopped the problem. I spoke to a keeper i know who also had the same problem and he too was using Virkon. Before i go though i must say that Virkon is the dogs nuts on anything from cleaning equip' to drinking water. Cheers you are 100% right stevie it does corrode metal! I'm sorry mate I should have mentioned it by heads up my arse as usual . I use some kitchen towel just to wipe it out a bit, the main things to look out for on this Inc is the Turner which is metal and the element... I know one guy who breeds a good few birds who just uses The clear Detol Antibac from Tesco's and swears by it! they probably all do near enough the same job mate so it might be a idea for me to try it this year.... cheers Jasper Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jasper65 6 Posted February 6, 2009 Report Share Posted February 6, 2009 John Keswick said: Jasper, your the first person i have come across that is actually doing it right Humidity levels in the country have rose over the last 100 years or so and the average humidity is now % Incubtion period doesnt need any water added, unless it is in a weird situation where the ambient humidity is abnormally low. Nice one john cheers . it makes me laugh as you read alot of the Incubation guides or books and they advice adding water, its probably 100% right in warmer climates which is why they come with Wells in the bottom but like you said the UK has plenty of Humidity aleady, my usual problem is drying them out.... cheers Jasper Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Butler 396 Posted February 6, 2009 Report Share Posted February 6, 2009 I use the dettol spray but make sure its the clear one that is safe to use round food and inside your fridge Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waz 4,274 Posted February 7, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2009 Ive done a graph and going by the information ive got the weight loss should be 12-14percent, at 5 days the eggs seem to be a bit lighter than they should. I will weigh again tomorrow and maybe block of one of the holes. First hatch (hopefully) in an incubator for me, so got it all to figure out. Just hope I get a few rewards first time! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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