Best way to zero

[Guest Mass_G3nocide]

Hi i just bought a new scope it's a Hawke - NE SR6 4-16x50 AO IR And i was just wondering what distance to zero it in i was told 60-75 yards but was wondering what everyone else does there's at also it has the Yard counter thing on the end and was also wondering if i zero it to 60 or 75 yards on that or just leave it on nil yards and then zero it??? I am new with these type's of scopes as i have allways had a standard type of scope and not one of these flash things Cheers all.

 

 

 

This is the scope....

[Deker 3,477]

Hi i just bought a new scope it's a Hawke - NE SR6 4-16x50 AO IR And i was just wondering what distance to zero it in i was told 60-75 yards but was wondering what everyone else does there's at also it has the Yard counter thing on the end and was also wondering if i zero it to 60 or 75 yards on that or just leave it on nil yards and then zero it??? I am new with these type's of scopes as i have allways had a standard type of scope and not one of these flash things Cheers all.

 

 

 

This is the scope....

 

 

What gun are you putting it on and what ammo do you propose using???

[Guest Mass_G3nocide]

10/22 ruger and eley subsonic.

[Deker 3,477]

Most would probably suggest a 50-60 yard zero with .22LR subs but the truth is you need to look at your land and make the best call for zero distance youself.

 

The front ring is a parallax adjustment!

 

PS

Is this a new model, I didn't know they did an SR6 in the Nite-Eye?

Edited January 31, 2009 by Deker

[karlp86 0]

i zeroed my .22lr at 75yrds to make the most out of the trajectory.

 

the "yard counter" is a parralax adjustment and once u've got your target set up at the range you want to zero it at you look through the scope and twist it until the numbers on the ring corrispond to the range you are shooting at and the picture comes into focus i.e if shooting at 50 yrds then twist it round to the number 50.

 

the range markers it has on the parralax adjustment ring will probably be slightly out but they are on alot of scopes but you can use it as a rough marker.

 

i hope this helps.

atb karl

[Guest Mass_G3nocide]

Most would probably suggest a 50-60 yard zero with .22LR subs but the truth is you need to look at your land and make the best call for zero distance youself.

 

The front ring is a parallax adjustment!

 

PS

Is this a new model, I didn't know they did an SR6 in the Nite-Eye?

 

 

 

 

I think so it was'nt in the shop last week and also the price is going up on it in the shops From 139.99 to 169.00 which i found very confusing when i was told.By the shop owner.

[Deker 3,477]

Most would probably suggest a 50-60 yard zero with .22LR subs but the truth is you need to look at your land and make the best call for zero distance youself.

 

The front ring is a parallax adjustment!

 

PS

Is this a new model, I didn't know they did an SR6 in the Nite-Eye?

 

 

 

 

I think so it was'nt in the shop last week and also the price is going up on it in the shops From 139.99 to 169.00 which i found very confusing when i was told.By the shop owner.

 

 

OK, just looked them up, I'd be interested to hear what you think of it after you have played a while. It has True View optics which are not bad, I have a Varmint11 on one of my .22LR's with True View optics and all round find this perfectly capable for day and night work! That has a 44mm objective, hopefully the 50mm on yours should be better!

[Guest Mass_G3nocide]

Will keep you posted. :D

[andyf 144]

You have had some sound advice re. zeroing, I suggest you need to 'start at the very beginning' (as the song says), and get your scope fixed on your rifle properly first.

Many people overlook this very significant step or just don't understand the importance, the scope mounts you use are just as important as the scope (the .22 rimfire cartridge and rifle are already as good as it gets, and are better than you or me, so it's the attention to detail HERE that makes the difference).

When tightened up the scope object bell, (the fat bit at the front end) should almost touch the barrel, if you can poke your finger under it it's to high. Make sure the reticule (Cross hair) is straight up & down, rest the rifle in your comfortable shooting position and GET THE EYE RELIEF RIGHT, you should get a full clear sight picture at your 'comfy' position, be advised that your mate's 'comfy' zone with your gun is probably different to yours, so ignore his blarney re. the scope.

On most scopes the 'eye' end of the scope is threaded and can be rotated from it's lock nut, this enables you to focus the reticule to your eyes, you should see the cross clearly and sharply, again, your mates eyesight is not the same as yours so do your own thing.

When zeroing you MUST have the rifle rested firmly, a decent swivel bipod is best, no wind, and no negative outside influences like rain, your partner or sheep!!

Keep your rifle clean but don't go 'Mad' a rimfire only needs a bore clean after 300>500 rounds, BUT your Semi-Auto will get clagged up with crud in the 'works' after 100+, so what I am saying is get a bolt action asap.

All the best AF.

[cyclonebri1 8]

All the ballistic stuff I've seen seem to give 60 yds, well 59 actually, as the optimum Zero.

 

I use the target turret sights and find them superb with .22 when coupled with the parallex/rangefinder ring.

 

Some scopes come with a series of dials for the elevation turret. Can be graduated for certain calibres but rarely .22. They will also include a blank dial, the idea being to mark your own sightings on the dial.

 

My Simmons came with blank tapes that you use to cover the existing markings but not the graduations. You would then zero up at say 60, mark that, do the same at 75 and mark that etc etc.

 

You will find that as you try all ranges some will double up. That is, the sight mark for 50 yds is likely to be the same mark for 20 yds.

 

Most folks might say all this isn't needed and just use experience and holdover/under. True, but it does make taking a long considered shot with the banana trajectory of the rimfire much more enjoyable

[Finkley 1]

I zero at 50 yards simply because the majority of my shots are between 40 and 60 yards.

 

Also with a 50 yard zero my bullet never gets more than 0.4" above the line of sight after the near zero of 21.5 yards, negating the need for tricky hold-unders at very close range.

 

However, I do have an accurate drop chart which extends to 150 yards with come-ups to take care of the longer stuff. I tend to hold over to about 75 yards, anything longer and I let the scope do the work.

 

It also gives me accurate windage at any range up to 150 which is very useful.

 

Hope this helps,

 

Steve

[karlp86 0]

Hi i just bought a new scope it's a Hawke - NE SR6 4-16x50 AO IR

 

if you haven't already then you should downlad the hawke ballistics program this will give you the hold over points for your scopes recticle here is the link to it http://www.hawkeoptics.com/brc/index.php

 

this will take away alot of the guess work for your longer shots. the program is very accurate, i've used it to shoot rabbits out to 155yrds with my .22lr silhouette which has a hawke endurance map 8 on it.

atb karl

[Guest Mass_G3nocide]

Are there any smaller lower down mounts as my scope sits about an inch above the barrel to my rimfire is there any that can get the scope closer???

[cyclonebri1 8]

Are there any smaller lower down mounts as my scope sits about an inch above the barrel to my rimfire is there any that can get the scope closer???

 

 

Bloody hell, on my 2 rimfires I have the scope on high mounts with a shim under each mount, (Ruger).

 

The Savage .17 has the rubber stripped of the scope to be replaced with a section of inner tube to keep barrel/scope clearance.

 

Wish i had your problems

 

 

Too high is no good, change it.

[Deker 3,477]

Are there any smaller lower down mounts as my scope sits about an inch above the barrel to my rimfire is there any that can get the scope closer???

 

 

There are loads....look up Deben, sportsmatch, bsa, etc etc etc on the web!!