WHAT TO LOOK FOR WHEN BUYING A DOG

[labsnlurchers 39]

After recent discussions with a freind of mine about attitudes towards conformation in working dogs i thought i'd post this for everyone to read.

It is 'borrowed' from my freinds website so thank's to lisa for letting me borrow it. Although it is based around HPR's it can be applied to most working breeds of gundog, terrier, lurcher etc. and after considering the working potential genetically i would advise to then consider the working potential of the conformation. Often it is difficult to judge some of the conformation points of an 8 week old puppy, this is when you should see the dam and if possible sire and see that they are to an acceptable standard.

 

Conformation.

 

For a long time there has been a thinking among us working folk, that a dog which looks ''pretty'' will not work. Quite rightly too, in some breeds!

 

However we feel that this is not always the case with HPRs. When we hear the word conformation, a lot of us automatically think of the show ring, and while it is most often used in reference to show dogs, we feel that it is also important in working dogs, we are not saying that you should breed solely for good conformation. Failure to consider a good temperament and hunting ability is a huge mistake, as is breeding for hunting/working ability, without considering conformation. When the master of hounds is selecting hounds for his breeding program, he not only looks for hunting ability, he will also look for good sound conformation. What use to him is a hound whose conformation is such that it will only be able to hunt for a few hours before getting tired and falling behind the pack? Not much use at all! There for, we feel that the same principle should also stand for working gundogs, as we do not see why they should not have good conformation, as well as good temperament and natural working ability. These are qualities we always strive to produce in all our GWPs. Below are some conformation points, we think are most important in working dogs.

 

1. Head should be in proportion to the size and sex of the dog.

 

2. Nostrils need to be well open.

 

3. Muzzle and jaw, long, broad, deep and strong enough to carry the game it is intended to hunt and retrieve, with lips that are thick close-fitting and do not over hang.

4. Teeth large with a regular complete scissor bite.

 

5. Eyes neither too deep set nor protruding, with close fitting eye rims, to prevent trauma to the eyes while working cover.

 

6. Neck of medium length, strongly muscled, a clean cut throat and no dewlap. A week necked dog will not carry good size game far.

 

7. The forequarters should be straight and parallel with the legs set well under the body with a well laid sloping shoulder blade, which should be strongly muscled, and form a good angle, together with a long upper arm to allow for a good reach and ground covering stride. The less strides a dog takes in a day the less fatigued he should become. Elbows should be close fitting, not pointing out or in. The forearm should be lean with good strong but not over coarse bone.

 

8. Feet oval in shape, tough, robust pads with well arched toes (not flat). Nether turning in nor outwhen still or moving.

 

9. The topline should be slightly sloping from the withers in a straight line and, as the back, should be firm and well muscled.

 

10. The chest needs to be broad and deep but not over wide, with well developed fore chest and well arched ribs to allow for good heart and lung capacity, needed for stamina.

 

The coat should conform to the breed standard. The standard was set for a good reason, and we should stick to it. This is also true for the height and size of the dog. On the continent dogs which do not meet the breed standard, with sever faults, which may substantially impair the performance and/or working ability of the dog, as shown below, will have their pedigree stamped not to be bred from. So if that is the case where these dogs originated, who are we to question whether or not conformation is important!

SEVER FAULTS.

 

Short or narrow muzzle

 

Weak dentition

 

Very loose eyelids

 

Sway or roach back

 

Heavily overbuilt

 

Elbows badly turning in or out

 

Bandy-legged, cow hocked or close behind, when standing as well as when moving

 

Continually pacing when stepping or trotting Stiff or mincing gait

 

A sparse coat lacking undercoat.

[riohog 5,790]

it s about this is it and will it be fit for purpose?

[labsnlurchers 39]

No, if you read it carefully i say 1ST LOOK AT THE WORKING POTENTIAL AND THEN LOOK AT THE WORKING POTENTIAL OF THE CONFORMATION

[riohog 5,790]

No, if you read it carefully i say 1ST LOOK AT THE WORKING POTENTIAL AND THEN LOOK AT THE WORKING POTENTIAL OF THE CONFORMATION

 

 

its obvious you are the expert thank you for your advice

[labsnlurchers 39]

I never claimed to be an expert, but i do care about the future of working dog breeds be it kc reg or lurcher and this information is meant to help people less experienced than you to find a decent working dog with the conformation that makes it able to fulfill the genetic working potential.

[gnasher16 30,534]

That all makes sense but the fact is the majority of people when buying a working dog will be buying a pup.....so you only have the parents to go by regarding conformation.......

Personally i regard good conformation as a bonus rather than a necessity on a working dog and if buying a dog id rather have an hours phone conversation with the breeder in preference to an hour looking at a dog/litter.

[brookie 1,193]

when looking at confirmation a barrel chest is a must because that is where the lungs and heart is and when exerted they expand so a barrel chest is an assett a wide front shows a good centre of gravity which gives a dog balance a long neck is a must this allows a dog to pick up better without having to over reach which in turn would put a dog of balance and make it check when attempting to strike at speed pronounced feet are a weakness the best example of feet are with the saluki and a high tail set coming sraight off the top of the rump

when looking at a dog firstly look at him head on see if hes square on four corners with good bone check that the top of his shoulders are in line with the the top of his rump and his hocks are running straight under him not at an angle . when looking at him head on then look at him from the side imagine if he was cut into four equal portions would they all be square to one another and watch a puppy when he goes to a bowl to eat or drink he can do it comfortably with out having to stoop or bend his legs inwards at the elbow to get his head into the bowl. a nice head yes with a kind eye which is a sign of intelligence but its whats on the inside that counts

[T78 4]

i'll always look for a lively,confident pup before i check if its elbows are ok!lol. i've got a dog here thats feet stand at ten to two!pigeon toe'd!!and yet,she's one of the most agile dogs i've seen.

[otter 61]

a very interesting read LnL . i have a question for you .

 

Did you consider all of the facts you have stated above when you cross bred a lab male with a bull x bitch ???

[labsnlurchers 39]

a very interesting read LnL . i have a question for you .

 

Did you consider all of the facts you have stated above when you cross bred a lab male with a bull x bitch ???

 

Yes, i consider them in every breeding. First and foremost i consider the working qualities i want from the puppy and then i breed accordingly. The working capabilities and conformational structure of all my dogs is quality and i have no need to introduce blood from elsewhere into my breedings, in that respect im quite lucky. thanks b!

[labsnlurchers 39]

when looking at confirmation a barrel chest is a must because that is where the lungs and heart is and when exerted they expand so a barrel chest is an assett a wide front shows a good centre of gravity which gives a dog balance a long neck is a must this allows a dog to pick up better without having to over reach which in turn would put a dog of balance and make it check when attempting to strike at speed pronounced feet are a weakness the best example of feet are with the saluki and a high tail set coming sraight off the top of the rump

when looking at a dog firstly look at him head on see if hes square on four corners with good bone check that the top of his shoulders are in line with the the top of his rump and his hocks are running straight under him not at an angle . when looking at him head on then look at him from the side imagine if he was cut into four equal portions would they all be square to one another and watch a puppy when he goes to a bowl to eat or drink he can do it comfortably with out having to stoop or bend his legs inwards at the elbow to get his head into the bowl. a nice head yes with a kind eye which is a sign of intelligence but its whats on the inside that counts

 

Really good advice there brookie, thanks for your input

[labsnlurchers 39]

i'll always look for a lively,confident pup before i check if its elbows are ok!lol. i've got a dog here thats feet stand at ten to two!pigeon toe'd!!and yet,she's one of the most agile dogs i've seen.

 

Thats right, sometimes the working qualities of the dog out weigh the conformational faults in the right hands, well done

[JPTfellterrier 65]

very useful advice i have a new dog coming tomorow, thank you

[Hannah4181 260]

a very interesting read LnL . i have a question for you .

 

Did you consider all of the facts you have stated above when you cross bred a lab male with a bull x bitch ???

 

Yes, i consider them in every breeding. First and foremost i consider the working qualities i want from the puppy and then i breed accordingly. The working capabilities and conformational structure of all my dogs is quality and i have no need to introduce blood from elsewhere into my breedings, in that respect im quite lucky. thanks b!

 

 

What difference does it make which breeds are crossed, if the conformation and working ability is spot on in both Dam and Sire?

[artic 595]

That all makes sense but the fact is the majority of people when buying a working dog will be buying a pup.....so you only have the parents to go by regarding conformation.......

Personally i regard good conformation as a bonus rather than a necessity on a working dog and if buying a dog id rather have an hours phone conversation with the breeder in preference to an hour looking at a dog/litter.

 

Spot on.........