standig up shots

[Adam-RunningDog 1]

How do i improve my standing up shots because currently i am abselute rubish without the bipod or sitting down and out lamping that takes alot of time up and the rabbit or the quarry is usualy gone by the time your read, any help would be most apreciated Adam

[hiho 5]

get bigger muscles :showoff:

[cometa300s 20]

practice practice practice mate. find the position you are comfortable with, control breathing and practice.

 

i am the same mate i couldnt hit a cows ass with a dart at the moment lol

 

hope this helped abit

 

happy hunting liam

[Timelord 0]

With standing shots (a true discipline) it's an absolute must to master this technique. The more you do it the stronger the muscle groups that you use to do this will get. Just keep practising on non live targets until you are completely confident to do it in the field on live quarry. The standing shot is the most difficult of shooting positions to do, but the most rewarding when your on the move and have nothing to rest your gun on.

As we all know from time to time the quarry is unpredictable and will present itself when your slightly off guard and can only take it down from the standing shot.

 

Good luck with the practice and happy hunting

[Deker 3,478]

Practice, get the gun balanced as well as possible, practice and build your muscle groups!!

 

Alternatively, buy some sticks

[camies 1]

Hi.

As I shoot PCP, I got a monopod from ebay for the rifle because unlike the muscle brigade, I can't hold a rifle in the aim for long due to an old injury.

It is useless for springers though and my HW35 bounces all over the shop.

It cost £20 and took a lot of practice but works well.

It also slides down section by section to just over 18" in length so it's good for sitting too.

 

[Ratman2 2]

As others have said, practice. One bit of advice I can give you is this, hold your gun over or under the target, bring the gun down or up as the case may be, and be confident enough to fire instantly you have the target in the cross hairs (if using a scope that is). With free hand shooting, the longer you hold aim the more likely you are to miss. And as Timelord says, it's a true discipline.

Stick at it mate and good luck.

Rob

[Coney 3]

practice practice practice mate. find the position you are comfortable with, control breathing and practice.

 

i am the same mate i couldnt hit a cows ass with a dart at the moment lol

 

hope this helped abit

 

happy hunting liam

 

 

[Grim Reaper 1]

I would enocourage you to balance the stock to the rifle mate - it is easily done, and will benefit to you in the long run.

 

How you balance the stock to the rifle is a simple enough process really - not nearly (by half) as difficult as it sounds at all. You will read this and think "what a rediculous length of process to go through" but i can assure you, if you do things right, do a bit of preparation, and have everything to hand, the final doing of the whole thing should take no longer than say, half hours time (of which you will only actually work for about 20 mins of that). The only thing i would say is that is best done with the benefit of owning a vice, you will see why.

 

What you do is to make yourself a little wedge from a piece of wood (hard wood is the best, but whatever you can come across is just as well), the reason for this wedge is that it will provide you with a pivot point for the means of balancing the whole rifle on, so that you will eventually get your balance sorted out.

 

Ok, you have your wedge now, and so the next thing is to locate some lead - i have found the lead flashing you can get from B&Q the most suitable for this. The lead is what you will be using to obtain the weight needed to balance the rifle and stock up. You need to cut it into lengths of say, 12 inches long, by 1 inch wide for now. With regards to how many strips will be needed is a matter of trial and error. Once cut into strips, fold them in half lengthways - you will again see why in a moment.

 

Once you have a good number of lead strips, and the wedge. set the wedge up in the vice and tighten it enough to stop it moving down in the vice, but not so much as to break it. Now, the next thing you need to do is to decide 'where' you want the balance point to be - i have found that 1/2 in front of the trigger guard is right for me. You may find the same thing, you may not - it is your preference as to the balance point.

 

What to do next is to set the rifle on to the wedge, and hold it ginerly and carefully - you will see (if you now relax your grip, but don't actually let go of the rifle) that the rifle will most likely be bound to be front heavy - that is the natural way of things as they stand at this particular time. With the other hand reach and get a lead strip (one of those you have folded in half lengthways, remember? ) and place it onto the butt piece - you will need to place quite a few to start with, mind. Again, relax your grip (but don't let go) and see what the rifle is doing this time.

 

If the rifle still drops down at the front (allbeit to a lesser degree) you will need more lead strips added. If you need more, then make sure the rifle is in a safe position where it can't fall, and cut more strips. Basically, keep adding strips, and see what the addition does each time - you want to arrive at a point where, when you relax your grip, the rifle is almost seeming to want to balance where it is. This means you are almost there now.

 

Get a length of tubing (22mm copper tubing is fine, or similar) and cut it to longer than you think you will need, this will allow for the lead in the next step. Once you have the tube cut and blocked at one end (by either a plug of poured and dried plaster, or clay) it will need to be mounted in a vice or stuck in a bucket of sand or garden earth - this keeps it steady for the pouring of the lead into the tube.

 

Now, you will need to reduce the width of the strips to say 1/2 an inch or so - this gives you a finer lead addition each time from now on. Once you feel you have enough 1/2" lead strips, get the rifle (and the previously added strips) onto the wedge again and on the same balance point. Now add the strips 1 at a time and see what the rifle wants to do each time grip is relaxed. when you finally get to the point of the rifle wanting to stay exactly where it is (without wanting to tip either way forward or backwards) then you have the weight of lead needed for the balanceing up of the stock and rifle. What you now need to do is to put the whole lot of lead that is on the rifle butt onto the scales and get the weight of it - jot that down and keep it safe, because you will need to refer to it in a while. Now you will need to basically cut the lead strips you have weighed into smaller bits that will make it easier to melt - just for the sake of it, add a bit more lead to the mix (as by this stage, you have recorded the figure you will need) and you need to now melt it down. This needs to be done very carefully to avoid any accidents - liquid lead will (if spilt) quite happily burn through a foot from top to bottom - including shoe as well!!

 

 

Once lead is poured into the tube walk away and let it go solid - give it about 10 minutes to cool before touching it - do not, under any cirumstances try to cool it by pouring water over it - liquid lead and water do not mix!! if you are silly enough to even try doing it, you will have red hot lead exploding everywhere - due to the water turning rapidly to steam and sending the lead in all directions!!! You have been warned

 

Once lead and tube have cooled, you will need to trim the length of it and wiegh it each and every time until you arrive at that figure of weight you have recorded - it is vital you get it trimmed bit by bit and when you are getting to within a gram or two, them is the time to file it gradually away.

 

Measure the length of the lead tube, and now comes the exciting bit, where you find just how brave you actually are, and how big your balls are - you need to get a spade bit the same diameter as the external measurement of the tube. You will be needing to drill into the base of the stock, [which of course, you will have by now mounted safely in the vice i hope!] (with butt pad removed, obviously) to a gnat's cock over the the tube length. The stock hole should be drilled at the centre point between the scoew holes that secure the butt pad, from the arse end of the butt going forwards, towards the muzzle end of things, as it were.

 

Once you have done this, use some adhesive (Evo Stick or similar) to apply on the tube surface, as well as into the butt hole you just made, and put the tube in the butt and wait for it to dry. Re-attach the butt pad and try the rifle in the shoulder - you SHOULD be findingg that, ok, the rifle is slightly more heavier when you pick the thing up, but that weight will dissappear as soon as you get the rifle to your shoulder.

 

Doing this to both of my stocks (the Walnut and the original Beech one) has vastly improved the standing shots for me. I do not now need to use either a gatepost, rifle stick, or other means of support - i can hold my rifle comfortably at my shoulder for five minutes or more now, and the veiw in the scope is very stable now as well.

 

I hope this will help you out as much as it has me - it is worth doing, at the end of the day.

 

 

 

 

Regards,

Grim.

Edited October 30, 2008 by Grim Reaper

[cometa300s 20]

nice idea grim that sounds on the pin

 

regards liam

[victor 10]

ive always taken standing shots, unless i could rest but usualy i hunt with a shot gun and there isnt any bipod there ..

[celticwar 1]

now thats a good read grim ... thats how ya beat us at bsa meet up lol

[Yokel Matt 918]

I'd get some sticks mate... i got only got some the other day and won't go out without them now. Takes a few seconds longer to get the shot off, which can sometimes mean you miss the opportunity... but then you are far more likely to have a 1 shot kill that middle it and have to hunt around in the bush which i much prefer... they'll always be there for another day Fair play to those who can consistantly group from standing, but i'll be using sticks.

 

All the best

 

Local

[ghillies 209]

get rid of the strap and carry it for a few weeks regularly, it builds yu kneck and arms a bit... does make an achey at times though.

 

next, theres 'true' line you have to find, theres a couple texts around about it on a google, and i think the BASC web site has a pdf.. but basicaly it's persavere till you get used to it.

 

zero from a prone, then practice stood always, then anything else is a bumus, i.e. a tree/post or kneeling.(chances are if you can hit it prone your just used to prone.

[jazz_11 5]

sit down on the floor and put ya knee up and then rest the rifle on your knee...

it works for me when im not using a bipod.