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The long net poles that i made


whippeter69

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Heres 6 of the long nets poles that i have just finished off.

 

First i cut them off at 5 ft lengths and then put them on the radiator for 3 weeks, then i sanded them off and then cut some points sanded them too. On the bottom and then cut them into 3ft lengths. After that i cut the bark off of the top of the stick and sanded them smooth. After that i then started to straighten them out, i watched the video of the man straightening the hazel long net poles, can remember his site name sorry, in the video he uses a flame but i havent got one of those so i used my mums electric hob and that worked great for me, heres some pictures. one or two have still got some green on them so back to the radiator they go, thanks for looking.

 

Whippeter69

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Edited by whippeter69
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  • 3 weeks later...

To straighten the poles mate, fill a pan about half full of water, and put it on the hob. lay the bend in the wood over the pan, and cover with a few tea towels (one is too thin). when the water starts to boil, the steam loosens up the wood and you can straighten it out over your knee. It takes about ten minuets to soften up each bend though, and you have to do each on individually so it takes some time.

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To straighten the poles mate, fill a pan about half full of water, and put it on the hob. lay the bend in the wood over the pan, and cover with a few tea towels (one is too thin). when the water starts to boil, the steam loosens up the wood and you can straighten it out over your knee. It takes about ten minuets to soften up each bend though, and you have to do each on individually so it takes some time.

 

Looks like he did a grand job using the guy in the vids method.

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To straighten the poles mate, fill a pan about half full of water, and put it on the hob. lay the bend in the wood over the pan, and cover with a few tea towels (one is too thin). when the water starts to boil, the steam loosens up the wood and you can straighten it out over your knee. It takes about ten minuets to soften up each bend though, and you have to do each on individually so it takes some time.

 

 

I use my black & decker hot air paint stripper. Put in a vice and turned to blow upwards. works a treat.

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Heres 6 of the long nets poles that i have just finished off.

 

First i cut them off at 5 ft lengths and then put them on the radiator for 3 weeks, then i sanded them off and then cut some points sanded them too. On the bottom and then cut them into 3ft lengths. After that i cut the bark off of the top of the stick and sanded them smooth. After that i then started to straighten them out, i watched the video of the man straightening the hazel long net poles, can remember his site name sorry, in the video he uses a flame but i havent got one of those so i used my mums electric hob and that worked great for me, heres some pictures. one or two have still got some green on them so back to the radiator they go, thanks for looking.

 

Whippeter69

 

I would reccomend you re-sharpen your points the taper is to acute (all right for pencils) the taper should be 21/2 - 3 " long. When your poles have dried out harden the points in the ashes of a wood fire for a few minutes. As for the poles being straightened I would reccommend you only cut straight ones to begin with, cut more than what you need tie them all together for drying out so they dry straight, cut them 30" long. Scrap the bark off the top of the poles for about 4" , put a slot in the top like a gypsys wooden peg. This is for pushing the top line into when setting the long net.There is no need to half hitch the line around the poles then. Slot method is quicker.

Carry on the good work.

master hunter

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Heres 6 of the long nets poles that i have just finished off.

 

Whippeter69

 

I would reccomend you re-sharpen your points the taper is to acute (all right for pencils) the taper should be 21/2 - 3 " long. When your poles have dried out harden the points in the ashes of a wood fire for a few minutes. As for the poles being straightened I would reccommend you only cut straight ones to begin with, cut more than what you need tie them all together for drying out so they dry straight, cut them 30" long. Scrap the bark off the top of the poles for about 4" , put a slot in the top like a gypsys wooden peg. This is for pushing the top line into when setting the long net.There is no need to half hitch the line around the poles then. Slot method is quicker.Carry on the good work.

master hunter

 

Good advice from Masterhunter :clapper:

 

"Get into the groove".... ;)

 

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Just to add.........I too split the top of my hazel long net pegs.......but whip the underside of the split to prevent it opening up too wide and splitting further. I can then use the pegs in the traditional way (half-hitch) or as i prefer a combination of the two methods.

 

Rolfe. ;)

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  • 8 months later...

hi mate, glad youve decided to give the traditional method a go, just thought id share the method i use.... firstly always cut in winter when the sap is down, sharpen to a point after cutting them to the required length then radius the top end to make it slightly easier on the hands,leave the bark on as this provides extra grip,remove all knobbles and burrs. straighten to the best of your ability( no tools used) pack into bundles of ten, cable tie together then store in the airing cupboard till next season.always cut extras/spares and always work a season in advance. atb :D

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  • 2 weeks later...

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