Zeroing with scope with no parallax adjustment

[snapper5 0]

Does anyone know if using a scope without parallax adjustment (Leupold 3.5-10x50) can affect the bullet placement when the zoom is changed? Or does it not make any difference if the distance is the same?

[SNAP SHOT 194]

should not make a difference to the POI.

[Fidgety 8]

......same question, but on a scope with PA? And, does it matter if the PA is not adjusted to the precise range?

Edited September 16, 2008 by Fidgety

[gonehunting 0]

......same question, but on a scope with PA? And, does it matter if the PA is not adjusted to the precise range?

 

 

All it will do if you PA and you dont adjust it ,is the picture through the scope will look misty but with a class scope like that i dont knw if you can tell the difference (never had one).Turn the scope to fullmag then look at something that is say 40 yards turn the PA up to say 200yards , now wind it down you will see the pic getting better(more clearer).PA is like a range finder.Hope that helps

[jamie g 17]

Does anyone know if using a scope without parallax adjustment (Leupold 3.5-10x50) can affect the bullet placement when the zoom is changed? Or does it not make any difference if the distance is the same?

 

 

it will be fine mate. most none px scope are set px to say 100 yards anyway depending on what it is. some of the airrifle ones that will be fine on rimfire will most likely be set at 50 yard px.

 

most top end scope with px if you look through them and you have it on 100yards it still looks super clear at 200 ! but when you zoom in on more mag then you mite have to adjust the px to suite

[Mr_Logic 5]

OK, let's put this to bed.

 

Parallax is NOT just focus. It is to do with putting the image on the same focal plane as the reticle. If the image is perfectly parallaxed, it will be sharp, and if you move your head, the perceived POI (i.e. where you see the crosshair on the target) will not change.

 

If it's a bit off, you can see movement to the POI and potentially this WILL have an effect when zeroing.

 

A lot off, and it's all blurry. That's why there's two adjustments - focus, and parallax.

 

Now, in practice with a CF, 100 yard parallax is fine because the margin of error on a hunting rifle is large, the distances short. But, if you want absolute precision, you need adjustable parallax and you need it set right.

 

But like I said, in the real world there is considerable margin for error.

[Vegeta 0]

OK, let's put this to bed.

 

Parallax is NOT just focus. It is to do with putting the image on the same focal plane as the reticle. If the image is perfectly parallaxed, it will be sharp, and if you move your head, the perceived POI (i.e. where you see the crosshair on the target) will not change.

 

If it's a bit off, you can see movement to the POI and potentially this WILL have an effect when zeroing.

 

A lot off, and it's all blurry. That's why there's two adjustments - focus, and parallax.

 

Now, in practice with a CF, 100 yard parallax is fine because the margin of error on a hunting rifle is large, the distances short. But, if you want absolute precision, you need adjustable parallax and you need it set right.

 

But like I said, in the real world there is considerable margin for error.

 

Informative post, thanks

[Deker 3,478]

OK, let's put this to bed.

 

Parallax is NOT just focus. It is to do with putting the image on the same focal plane as the reticle. If the image is perfectly parallaxed, it will be sharp, and if you move your head, the perceived POI (i.e. where you see the crosshair on the target) will not change.

 

If it's a bit off, you can see movement to the POI and potentially this WILL have an effect when zeroing.

 

A lot off, and it's all blurry. That's why there's two adjustments - focus, and parallax.

 

Now, in practice with a CF, 100 yard parallax is fine because the margin of error on a hunting rifle is large, the distances short. But, if you want absolute precision, you need adjustable parallax and you need it set right.

 

But like I said, in the real world there is considerable margin for error.

 

 

That actually explains it a lot better and more simply than I have seen in many an article, and whilst it may also seem very obvious to many, it is essential to look straight down the tube as well, as this too has an effect on parallax!!

[Fidgety 8]

Great explanation Mr L ......better than my scopes' leaflet! Mine is an Edgar Bros 6x24 42. Has front Px adjustment - not mounted it yet, but was thinking about putting it on the rimmy. Would i be right in thinking it was more a target than a hunting scope with Px adjustment?

Edited September 17, 2008 by Fidgety

[snapper5 0]

Thanks guys...hopefully picking new rifle up today and zeroing it later. BTW, went for the T3 Lite Stainless as the distributors had one in stock in 6.5 x 55 in left handed. The distributors for the Titan 6, who didn't have one in stock, said they would check with the manufacturers and see how long to get one - they never bothered to come back to me. Great way to run a business.

 

S

[Mr_Logic 5]

Great explanation Mr L ......better than my scopes' leaflet! Mine is an Edgar Bros 6x24 42. Has front Px adjustment - not mounted it yet, but was thinking about putting it on the rimmy. Would i be right in thinking it was more a target than a hunting scope with Px adjustment?

Cheers for the compliments folks, always brightens the day

 

I would have thought that scope would be purely hunting use, because the one thing I forgot to say is that air rifle users complicate things because they need parallax set to 35 or so yards. Whereas firearms need more like 100 yards.

 

if you make a scope with AO, you can do both markets, reducing costs and increasing brand awareness.

 

Also, while parallax adjustment isn't meant to be used for focus, some need it to be. Deker is a good example