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Describe a good working Border


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not want tae start the cross breed fite again

 

but how would you borda enthusiasts fix the muzzle problem...

 

:blink: What's he saying :blink:

 

Not all have the little muzzle Ronnie, certain strains went that way to 'fit a standard' when the only standard that mattered was Earth Work.

 

Dog's like my lil' ol' Biatch forgot to look in the mirror before going to work and got a bit of a pasting, consequently, she's a bayer although her best day's are long behind the old b'stard

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swansea jack i wasnt havin a pop jst asking,

the reason i asked isi v never realy paid much attention tae borders

however all i have seen have had muzzles which are nearly flat,

 

can you give u some info on the dogs in the pics

I didn't think you was mate.. I was answering your question..

 

They belong to a mate of mine, they are Working, good genuine hard workers... from working lines through and through...

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is it a well known line

or a family secret

 

wouldnt mind tryin one a them

I couldn't tell ya if it's a well known line or not, just that he's had them forever and they work well, if you are genuinely interested I will let you know when there are pups available, normally if he has a litter, they are spoken for ....

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i keep working borders, the qualitys i would outline decent temprament, a good head, and nose, they must be able to find, and plenty of courage, the abilty to carry out the job they were bred for, and to stay with quarry with out getting to damaged,they seem to get harder as they age.

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If you look at old pics of Borders they where longer in the muzzle, more like a JRT or most terirers, and have only taken on the Otterhead style as a show or a fashonable thing in recent years, IMO I think the head from front on is the way to look at it not from above the head as a lot look at it in the show circles. Short muzzles are pretty in the ring but very ordinary in the real world of a working dog.

A question for workers of borders? How do your dogs generally start to work??

Cheers Marcos

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I thought about trying to get a good border for coons over here, and i realy like the ones ive seen...most if not all where going buy the time they was 12 months, if they hadnt been dug to buy then, it was because they was being held back, to make sure they was mentaly ready..

 

What put me off was that a coon can feck up a dog fairly badly with its feet/paws/hands, and we have had some bad damage one 'normal' muzzeld dogs, so the shorter face of the Boder wouldnt be great for coons i dont think, not if they worked how the ones ive seen worked anyway...they was gritty dogs and always took some stick and where dug to at grips with there game...nice dogs...most seemed to have an almost "Lurcher" type temeparment in the house, or at home with the family..just happy to lay in front of the fire with the kids, or on the sofa...take them digging, and they was well up for the hardest days graft...

 

Kye..

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Brilliant description hue jeers.

donnyc great types there, the following was a terrier standard in a fell & moorland year book and I think it is quite good for all working terries, especially given the great threads started re different types of working terriers.

 

A Working Terrier Standard

 

A working terrier should be terrier-like in appearance and should have an acute and powerful motivation to work.

• HEAD: should be strong, and encased in the skull should be a brain capable of showing intelligence and a fair amount of obedience and respect with some affection.

• NECK: should be strong and muscular, joining the head to the body.

• CHEST: should be big enough to hold the heart of a lion, but small enough to enable its owner to follow the quarry into extremely tight corners.

• LEGS: should be long, or short, according to the work envisaged by the terrain of the area where he is to be employed. The legs should be powerful enough to carry the owner through a hard day.

• FEET: four, one at the end of each leg, with extremely tough pads.

• COAT: whether rough or smooth, white or colored, should be dense and tight, to keep its wearer warm and facilitate cleaning without holding too much earth and water.

• BACK: strong and supple.

• TAIL: for preference, a working terrier should have a tail.

• EYES: of great assistance above ground.

• EARS: yes, two.

• NOSE: should be able to detect and evaluate any slight scent.

• TEETH: should be as large and as strong as possible, firmly secured in a muscular jaw, capable of biting powerfully and holding a firm grip.

In temperament, the animal should be fairly docile and tractable, with a tremendous staying power and great love of his task. He should enjoy going to ground and should not appear at 10 minute intervals to see if his owner is still waiting for him. He should disregard wounds and see his job through at all times. He should be of sensible disposition and not easily ruffled or upset.

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ive never had a dog like borders,they can be slow devolpers,they seem not as full on as other terriers,my dog didnt come on till he was 13mths, we took him ratting at 10 mths and while other younger terriers were catching rats he sat back and watched, it was only when he,d killed three of my ferrets that had escaped that he entered, i think this is the reason alot of lads get rid of then early,you have to be patient, i waited along time for this working strain and im glad i did, i always kept lakelands but couldnt find what i wanted its good to know there are working strains out there, mine goes back to digmore, oxcroft, he,s five now and ive bred some good pups by him, their very biddable and eager to please and all flying to ground, and will hunt water, and bring stuff back, i did have one bad exprience, i took my bitch duck shooting and dropped a drake in a pond, sent the dog off,she didnt bring it back, so theres me thinking the pond was wadeable, in i went the water came over my boots, and my nuts shrunk to the size of peas, but i got my duck.

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