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How to zero a scope


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Grim,

Hope you don't object but I've cut and pasted your 'how to' onto a bike site of all things.

I've given you full credit and can supply the site details if you like (I think it's in a members only area).

I originally put a link to here, but this is also a members only area.

 

As I say it's a direct cut and paste, but I'll kill it if you object.

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Grim,

Hope you don't object but I've cut and pasted your 'how to' onto a bike site of all things.

I've given you full credit and can supply the site details if you like (I think it's in a members only area).

I originally put a link to here, but this is also a members only area.

 

As I say it's a direct cut and paste, but I'll kill it if you object.

 

 

I have no objection McSparkie, its cool - the more people it can help,better for all! :thumbs:

 

Plus, if you have put a link to here, then that is good as well. ;)

 

 

Having said all that, i would be fascinated to have a look at the site/forum you have posted it on though - my 2 have bikes, and i could always use the info! lol :laugh:

 

 

 

 

Regards,

Grim.

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Grim,

Hope you don't object but I've cut and pasted your 'how to' onto a bike site of all things.

I've given you full credit and can supply the site details if you like (I think it's in a members only area).

I originally put a link to here, but this is also a members only area.

 

As I say it's a direct cut and paste, but I'll kill it if you object.

 

 

I have no objection McSparkie, its cool - the more people it can help,better for all! :thumbs:

 

Plus, if you have put a link to here, then that is good as well. ;)

 

 

Having said all that, i would be fascinated to have a look at the site/forum you have posted it on though - my 2 have bikes, and i could always use the info! lol :laugh:

 

 

 

 

Regards,

Grim.

 

Cool!

Have a shuftie here. If you can't see it, let me know and I'll sort something.

Edited by McSparkie
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Hey Grim, nice one. Could you please do a similar article explaining all the bells and whistles on the scope itself: Including the details for attaching it to the rifle. This would be very helpful to those of us investigating the idea of their first gun. Thanks. :)

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Hey Grim, nice one. Could you please do a similar article explaining all the bells and whistles on the scope itself: Including the details for attaching it to the rifle. This would be very helpful to those of us investigating the idea of their first gun. Thanks. :)

 

Edjay, this is a good idea, and one i have been pondering on for a while too, as it goes - i will do my best to try and put something together and will post it up when i have finished doing it. :thumbs:

 

 

 

All the best,

Grim.

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  • 3 weeks later...
Guest Mass_G3nocide
Zeroing your ‘scope

 

This is my guide to how I do it, if you want to follow my method - please fell free. If you do not want to, then please feel equally as free. I am choosing to post this as i feel it may be of use to you guys. :thumbs:

 

Ok, well here we go . . . . .

 

The first thing I do when I want to zero a scope to my rifle is to initially set the rifle with the Harris pod and my self made butt rest attached (see below),

 

Minibuttrest.jpg

 

up at 5 yards from my target (which is in front of my backstop), I then fire 5 shots. I adjust the turrets after each shot windage first, elevation second, until the centre of my cross hairs are spot on to the pellet's point of impact. Once this has been achieved, I move to the next step.

 

This step is the same as above, but I increase the range by 5 yards so now the rifle is 10 yards from target. After achieving zero at each stage, I simply increase the distance between rifle and target by 5 yards. My own preferred zero range for my rifle/'scope set up is 35 yards.

 

I know you will have read this far and be thinking "why does he the zero at such small increases of distance from the target each time?" . . . . . the answer is that I have found I prefer this way to zero because if you were to have a misaligned scope, or any occurence of 'crossover' (for instance if you had say, tightened up the scope rings to tightly) then any misalignment will become evident much more earlier on in the zeroing session, you see?

 

As an aside, the screws on scope mounts should only EVER be tightened to finger tight any tighter and you will risk irrepairably damaging your scope body. Similarly, the scope ring mounts should, ideally, be placed on your rifle's dovetails so they are as far apart from where the scope's saddle (the bit where the turrets sit) is, as this will also help to negate the scope mounts damaging the turrets delicate inside adjusters as well.

 

Anyway, back to the subject . . . :laugh:

 

Once I have achieved my zero, I generally choose to set my turret caps to indicate 'zero' on them. I do this by slackening off the turret screws that hold the caps in place, and turning the caps until the '0' is in line with the scope's index mark and then nipping the screws to finger tight. If I then choose to make a turret setting change, I can easily revert to the zero mark again by aligning the turret cap '0' with the scope index mark.

 

I tend to zero at 35 yards as this is my comfort zone when I am hunting, with this in mind, if a close range shot suddenly presents itself, (lets assume at 15 yards) I can then use a little bit of hold under and be sure of getting the shot where I need it to be. This enables me to take a closer (or a shot that is slightly beyond my zero) without having to alter the turret settings. As you may have guessed, on a personal level, I prefer not to have to fanny around altering my turrest for wind/elevation each time a target presents. itself. I find it much simpler to hold over or under, as the case may be.

 

Anyway people, I hope this helps you out in zeroing your scopes?

 

 

Best regards to all,

Grim.

 

 

 

Will this make any difference if you have a hawke scope with the yard meter on it???

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