how do you!! zero your scope!!

[rabbit_killer 2]

i have read a lot of fings since i joint here most verry good but i seem to notice that there are a lot of people that do fings differntly to me i no everyone does fings there own way

 

i just wonderd how people zero there scopes ?

im not asking how to i know that just how you do it!!

 

i just thought it would be intresting to see what other people do!!

 

i zero myne in an old black an decker work mate put an old t shirt in it to ensure i dont mark my gun clamp it up so i no it wont move!! set the distance i require zoom right in so i can see my target and let rip at me target and then adjust acordingly

 

when done i no because there was no movement from the gun that it is perfect when i take it out of the work mate then test it free hand and its spot on every time!!

 

this works for me what do you do??

[gilly-93 31]

Same as you pal

[Gav 1,708]

I just triangulate the trajectory then calculate the velocity multiplied by the weight of the grain and expanse of the projectile and prey ... simple hey

[rabbit_killer 2]

I just triangulate the trajectory then calculate the velocity multiplied by the weight of the grain and expanse of the projectile and prey ... simple hey

 

verry intresting this equasion you speak of sounds technical :stupid: :11:

[fraggle 4]

walk out on to field, find a nice post, stick a rizla pack on to it, (make roley first), turn around walk 35 paces, turn around lay down and start shooting.

adjust till i cant smoke any more till i get home.

[Dan_Jones 7]

He asked how to zero scopes not quit smoking lol :drag:

 

Dan.

[Grim Reaper 1]

I have made a little adjustable stand/bracket for myself and i use it with my S310 with the Harris pod.

 

I simply attatch the bracket between the butt pad and stock (by slackening the butt screws, not removing them, mind) , and put the pod on the front of the stock. See below for image . . .

 

 

I set it up on the floor of the conservatory (i have set up on my drive and shot to the bottom of the garden too, for that matter * ) and aim down to the bottom of the garden. I find this a good method as the pod and my bracket make it so that i have a sort of 'mini rifle bench' at my disposal.

 

I simply turn the adjustable nut on the bracket until i get the scope pointing exactly where it needs to be. I then just 'fine tune' the turrets until i find the centre of the cross hairs are spot bollock on the POI on my target.

 

Makes zero'ing so much easier.

 

 

Regards,

Grim.

 

* I am aware of the 50 foot rule too - i have put an index mark on the drive which is 55 foot from the centre of the road.

Edited August 16, 2008 by Grim Reaper

[Grim Reaper 1]

I just triangulate the trajectory then calculate the velocity multiplied by the weight of the grain and expanse of the projectile and prey ... simple hey

 

verry intresting this equasion you speak of sounds technical :stupid: :11:

 

 

Yes mate, its all very highly testical, is that!

 

 

 

Regards,

Grim.

[Gav 1,708]

I just triangulate the trajectory then calculate the velocity multiplied by the weight of the grain and expanse of the projectile and prey ... simple hey

 

verry intresting this equasion you speak of sounds technical :stupid: :11:

 

 

Yes mate, its all very highly testical, is that!

 

 

 

Regards,

Grim.

 

Its quite simple really hey, I did however forget to mention the angle of the dangle didn't I

 

Actually on a more serious note, I recently made a 15m indoor range in my barn, out with the old sand bag type rest thing (I only Have a springer), then when I have it homed in at 15m, I simply go to my permission on a wind free day pace out 30 steps (approx 30m) and adjust to that range.

[SEAN3513 7]

I just triangulate the trajectory then calculate the velocity multiplied by the weight of the grain and expanse of the projectile and prey ... simple hey

 

is that the procedure that uses the spondulating gangle pin gav ???????

 

hope your well mate

 

cheers

 

sean

[Coney 3]

I have made a little adjustable stand/bracket for myself and i use it with my S310 with the Harris pod.

 

I simply attatch the bracket between the butt pad and stock (by slackening the butt screws, not removing them, mind) , and put the pod on the front of the stock. See below for image . . .

 

 

I set it up on the floor of the conservatory (i have set up on my drive and shot to the bottom of the garden too, for that matter * ) and aim down to the bottom of the garden. I find this a good method as the pod and my bracket make it so that i have a sort of 'mini rifle bench' at my disposal.

 

I simply turn the adjustable nut on the bracket until i get the scope pointing exactly where it needs to be. I then just 'fine tune' the turrets until i find the centre of the cross hairs are spot bollock on the POI on my target.

 

Makes zero'ing so much easier.

 

 

Regards,

Grim.

 

* I am aware of the 50 foot rule too - i have put an index mark on the drive which is 55 foot from the centre of the road.

 

 

Hello Grim

 

Just a quick question....how do you find those raised cheek pieces, is there any advantage using one ?? if so what is it??

 

Cheers

Coney.

[Grim Reaper 1]

Hello Grim

 

Just a quick question....how do you find those raised cheek pieces, is there any advantage using one ?? if so what is it??

 

Cheers

Coney.

 

 

Hi Coney mate,

 

Believe it or not, the cheekpiece is not a raised one, per se, its actually part of the stock, which is made from Walnut. The black you see in the piccy is just a bit of soft leather i put on there just to soften it ever so slightly, like? But yeah, it is a raised cheek peice in that it is above the level of the rest of the butt top.

 

In all honesty, i find rather good actually, the angle is just a bit steeper than that on my original Beech stock, and so i get on with it very well. The advantage for me is that it helps me to get better eye relief on the scope, and much quicker too.

 

 

Regards,

Grim.

[JackReid 35]

Didnt see many springer 'tell hows' so heres mine..(not that anything is unusual, just free hand shooting no vice etc or rest)

 

I go buy a pack of targets and goto the permission out the way of rabbit areas near the car, drawing pin one up on 'the post' go to about 10-12 yards and shoot for bull and try and get my horizontal band on. Do that till your pretty sure its bang on (if not certain) then go back to say 25 big paces and bring the vertical down so Im hitting bull dead on. This all helps the warm up etc, I find a rushed zero leaves me ensure and if im ensure I dont shoot well. Eventually move out from 25-30 ish and zero to that, Have a few mor targets prcatise maybe revisit the horizontal at different ranges to make sure its ok. Then pop a little stone or little apple on the top of the post and hit the kill zone!

 

Then confident in knowing all is ready...go nail some rabbits!

[Gav 1,708]

Some good zeroing targets free to download and print here if your interested and saves buying them

[Grim Reaper 1]

Some good zeroing targets free to download and print here if your interested and saves buying them

 

 

If anyone is interested, a guy by the name of Ian Pellant wrote a program called ' AirGun' Version 7.5.2, you can download it Here. It is an airgun calculator, detailed pellet trajectory tool, power and measurement convertor, as well as the fact you can design your own targets - all in all a proffessional looking bit of kit, i must say

 

Once you have installed it, registartion is free by following the in-program prompt direct to Ian's inbox, which is located(i believe)Here.

 

You can also print off the pre made targets, or indeed use the software to create your own.

 

Very good program, i recommend it. Hope this helps you guys.

 

 

Regards,

Grim.

Edited August 17, 2008 by Grim Reaper