Lewdan 17 Posted June 12, 2008 Report Share Posted June 12, 2008 Recently started reloading for my .22K hornet, all seems to be going well just a few points i need help with At the moment i have been full length resizing the cases, do i need to do this on every reload? or can i neck size only? i.m not sure what the difference will be in accuracy or case life any ideas please.. Also does the case have to be trimmed to length after each use?? I am using 9.8 Gns of Vit N110 powder, and a 40Gn V max head, hitting rabbits out to about 180Yds ( best to date ).. PS any other tips on reloading hornet most welcome... Thanks Quote Link to post
Yokel Matt 918 Posted June 12, 2008 Report Share Posted June 12, 2008 (edited) Edited June 12, 2008 by Local Quote Link to post
v-max 2 Posted June 12, 2008 Report Share Posted June 12, 2008 You have to re-size every case either full length or a neck size. With full length you get less brass life say 10-15 times through & need lub & i advise you trim/chamfer & pocket primmer clean every time. Neck sizing as said only dose the neck & no need for lub & cases last 10 times longer but this method of sizing is more for target/benchrest. You need to size every case as the case mouth expands when fired & needs to be taken back 0.001" smaller than the bullet. the expander pin in your die will do this job so dont get anal over it & you should get better accuracy with neck size once you have a fire formed case from your rifle. Quote Link to post
dicehorn 38 Posted June 12, 2008 Report Share Posted June 12, 2008 Recently started reloading for my .22K hornet, all seems to be going well just a few points i need help with At the moment i have been full length resizing the cases, do i need to do this on every reload? or can i neck size only? i.m not sure what the difference will be in accuracy or case life any ideas please.. Also does the case have to be trimmed to length after each use?? I am using 9.8 Gns of Vit N110 powder, and a 40Gn V max head, hitting rabbits out to about 180Yds ( best to date ).. PS any other tips on reloading hornet most welcome... Thanks Hi Keith Agree with what Vmax has written - up to a point. If you are using a Redding neck die (ie the S Type with titanium bushings) then there is no need to lube the cases, however if any other, you will need to lube otherwise you run the risk of the case sticking in the die which can be a pig to remove. I assume you know the difference between a full length and a neck die? Once you have fired the cartridge you will only need to neck size for the rest of the case's life. The full length die is used to put the case back to the manufacturer's blue print whereas the neck die ensures that your case remains tailored to YOUR rifle. If at any time you notice a neck is starting to split, you must crimp the case with pliers and bin them. Your cases on the Hornet need to be trimmed to 1.393 " after EVERY firing and once trimmed must be deburred both inside and out. The above are just a few of the essentials you must do There are a lot of reloading books out there and also info on the web - generally there are set procedures involved in reloading that are there to ensure that you develop accurate rounds but above all that you are safe in what you are doing. Peter PS I don't reload a Hornet, but 3 other calibres and the rules are all the same. Quote Link to post
SNAP SHOT 194 Posted June 12, 2008 Report Share Posted June 12, 2008 As above all info is correct, just to add i see you went with my reloading data i gave you hope it's working well for ye. seems to be. Neck sizing will work for you but if you find the cases hard to extract from the breach then they will need a run on the full length sizing die. have fun. Quote Link to post
Shauny 0 Posted June 14, 2008 Report Share Posted June 14, 2008 Sorry don't want to hijack the thread - but if you use a case length gauge to trim your cartridges this must be to the industry specification for case length, so each one is the same size. However, what about measuring headspace? I think I know what it is but if you have trimmed each case to specification and your chamber is slightly bigger or smaller, how do you take that into account when trimming, because of course the case length gauge is a given size. Thanks. Quote Link to post
v-max 2 Posted June 14, 2008 Report Share Posted June 14, 2008 Sorry don't want to hijack the thread - but if you use a case length gauge to trim your cartridges this must be to the industry specification for case length, so each one is the same size. However, what about measuring headspace? I think I know what it is but if you have trimmed each case to specification and your chamber is slightly bigger or smaller, how do you take that into account when trimming, because of course the case length gauge is a given size. Thanks. Case length has nothing to do with it & a factory rifle is made to a SAMMI speck so has a loose tolerance in headspace. Resizine the swollen case after it has been shot in the chammber is what this thread is about either FL-size to SAMMI speck or neck size hence Snapshots comment on extration being hard. FL-sizing dose the sholders etc so it makes it easy to chammber as the brass has been squeezed back to a tolerance to work in any SAMMI speck rifle. Once fired the case swels to chammber dimentions again & needs worked again thus case life is poorer than neck sizing only but neck sizing leaves the shoulders etc so can be stiff to chammber & even worse to extract after fired. Quote Link to post
dicehorn 38 Posted June 14, 2008 Report Share Posted June 14, 2008 Case length has nothing to do with it & a factory rifle is made to a SAMMI speck so has a loose tolerance in headspace. Resizine the swollen case after it has been shot in the chammber is what this thread is about either FL-size to SAMMI speck or neck size hence Snapshots comment on extration being hard. FL-sizing dose the sholders etc so it makes it easy to chammber as the brass has been squeezed back to a tolerance to work in any SAMMI speck rifle. Once fired the case swels to chammber dimentions again & needs worked again thus case life is poorer than neck sizing only but neck sizing leaves the shoulders etc so can be stiff to chammber & even worse to extract after fired. It is also worth mentioning to reloaders that whilst the above is true about the cause of difficult extraction, sometimes this is not a problem caused by the fired cartridge but a build up of dirt/spent powder in the chamber. It is one thing that rifle shooters can overlook when cleaning the bore and fail giving the chamber a good going over also with a chamber brush, Peter Quote Link to post
Lewdan 17 Posted June 16, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2008 Thank you all for your help and information, i think from now on i will neck size only but i will use lube when doing so... Just a tag onto this thread, i stated in my original topic that i trim case length and deburr ( now after every fireing ) but is there a table of some sort, that gives averall round length ( including head ) at the moment i am setting my rounds to measure 1.78 inch total length, but i assume that my seating depth will change with differing head types?? i have also heard guys at my range talk about setting the bullet head to give a certain meaurement in front of the rifeling grooves, ( not sure about this ) I would appreciate any advice.. Thanks again Quote Link to post
v-max 2 Posted June 17, 2008 Report Share Posted June 17, 2008 I wouldent think you need lub to neck size & each bullet will have a diffrent ogive thus each seating depth will change. I work a case with the neck cut & push a bullet in & no more then place into the rifle & chamber & the bullet will be pushed in to seating depth of your rifle. To measure properly you need a comparater of size & base but i dont have yet. Once you have size back it off 10 thou-50 thou it depends on how your rifle likes it you will have to experamint. Quote Link to post
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