donky7 9 Posted May 4, 2008 Report Share Posted May 4, 2008 i'm no good with wood............ so a mate assisted. and my attempt was feeble compared to this 1. but its now in situ, and i'm observing closely. this a ramp either side of the fenn. Quote Link to post
dogs-n-natives 1,182 Posted May 4, 2008 Report Share Posted May 4, 2008 (edited) i'm no good with wood............ so a mate assisted. and my attempt was feeble compared to this 1. but its now in situ, and i'm observing closely. this a ramp either side of the fenn. Not knocking what you've made, but I wouldnt have bothered with the ramps, or even the entire floor. I just dig a bit out for the trap to lie in. The easiest way is just three bits of plank nailed together. But also to stabilise the tunnel and hold the trap steady, I use a couple of stabilising pieces, crossing the floor. I have been running up to 250 tunnel traps over the last few years, and its the easiest and quickest method. Just a point though, some hazel stakes (or similar) should be cut, to restrict entry. Just my thoughts on the subject. All the best Edited May 4, 2008 by john b removal of repeated pics Quote Link to post
donky7 9 Posted May 4, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2008 (edited) i has a few like that hidden away, these are for around the farms, and they has dogs. i've been using rodenticides, and i'm sure it passes through them likes a porsce.... with little effect, as i'm getting great bait takes, even green poooooooooooo.. but not finding any dead'uns. so............. i'm on the trapping campaign, to try to reduce rodenticide risks.... donks. Edited May 4, 2008 by donky7 Quote Link to post
dogs-n-natives 1,182 Posted May 4, 2008 Report Share Posted May 4, 2008 i has a few like that hidden away, these are for around the farms, and they has dogs. donks. Aye your tunnel should keep the dogs noses clear of the trap. Ive found the same problems with poisons. Just try different makes/poison types, and you should find one that kills them. Quote Link to post
OldTrapCollector 377 Posted May 4, 2008 Report Share Posted May 4, 2008 The easiest way is just three bits of plank nailed together That's what I would do too Watch that feed doesn't trickle in under the pan too Donks or it will need the weight of a bull elephant to fire it OTC Quote Link to post
john b 38 Posted May 4, 2008 Report Share Posted May 4, 2008 Donks I think it's time I weighed in with some support for you mate I like the boxes too. But I have to agree with D-n-N that you don't need the ramps. Quote Link to post
Guest Ditch_Shitter Posted May 4, 2008 Report Share Posted May 4, 2008 Ah. I was waiting for John to show ye the classic 'Fenn Box' and save me digging in my own files I like what John's showing ye, Donks. I like the commitment brought about by a ~ in your case ~ ramp. But I find a three sider with a strenghening pair of battons set tightly either side of the trap do it. Your ramps are to far apart, IMHO. I also feel those church doors are unnecessarily large and convaluted. Straight circle with a 2" hole saw would do. What's the bait that's failing ye, mate? Trade name, please? One day soon enough now, I'm buying a new blade for my circular saw. Then I'm going to buy some planks and sheet of ply and go ballistic. I aim to make a load of bird nest boxes of various types and shall make some fresh tunnels and Fenn Boxes too, just for fun. At least I can set those around my own ground and have the pleasure of finding them with visitors. All my rat boxes are out on jobs right now and I can't get to those jobs often enough to check Fenn Boxes. I find me a 'hobbiest' chippy around here and I have a job for him though! Quote Link to post
Matt 160 Posted May 4, 2008 Report Share Posted May 4, 2008 Donks, forget all that pelleted bait, put a bit of peanut butter on the 'ceiling' of the tunnel right above the trap - it works a treat. I too favour the simple three sided tunnels, and I don't bother with any sort of hole. Just use some sticks, or even high tensile fencing wire as a restrictor for the entrance. A well placed tunnel will catch with no bait at all, and the simplest designs of tunnels are undoubtedly the best. I'll see if I can dig out some pics. Personally, with a farm situation, I would prefer AF boxes with break backs inside. Its a quick and simple way of catching any foraging rats which pass through. It also means you then have a bait station which is already established should you get a future infestation. As Ditch has suggested, it would be interesting to know what bait you are having trouble with. Have you considered sending some tails off to Rob Smith for DNA testing? Most farms suffer with a degree of bait tolerance due to farmers lackadaisical attitude towards baiting. Quote Link to post
stubby 175 Posted May 5, 2008 Report Share Posted May 5, 2008 i has a few like that hidden away, these are for around the farms, and they has dogs. i've been using rodenticides, and i'm sure it passes through them likes a porsce.... with little effect, as i'm getting great bait takes, even green poooooooooooo.. but not finding any dead'uns. so............. i'm on the trapping campaign, to try to reduce rodenticide risks.... donks. do these farms have lots of cows on them? Quote Link to post
woodga 170 Posted May 5, 2008 Report Share Posted May 5, 2008 well funny enough i was just talking to glenn about tunnels yesterday and about various designs of tunnel no doubt that boxes work or that they look good but simplicity again on glenns part had me won over all he uses are two six inch planks nailed or screwed together to form a v shape eighteen inches long and you have your tunnel a few sticks placed at either end to allow only the target to enter and a way you go and they stack on top of each other and save loads of room in the van allowing for more to be placed Quote Link to post
stephen58 1 Posted May 5, 2008 Report Share Posted May 5, 2008 I can see where Donky7 is coming from with that design ; it;s so that the Fenn is level like you would set it in soil but in this case it is being set on concrete ;hence the ramps and floor ; so once the Rat has entered it;s good night ; the same with JohnB ;s design ; I think that both designs could be useful in feed sheds with concrete floors etc!! regards Steve Quote Link to post
john b 38 Posted May 5, 2008 Report Share Posted May 5, 2008 well funny enough i was just talking to glenn about tunnels yesterday and about various designs of tunnel no doubt that boxes work or that they look good but simplicity again on glenns part had me won over all he uses are two six inch planks nailed or screwed together to form a v shape eighteen inches long and you have your tunnel a few sticks placed at either end to allow only the target to enter and a way you go and they stack on top of each other and save loads of room in the van allowing for more to be placed What a good idea. Again. As the trap arms move in an arc the top 'corners' of the straight tunnel are wasted space anyway. As long as the angle of the planks is sahllow enough so that there is no room in the point of the 'V' for the animal to be pushed above the arms. And the rain will run off them more quickly too. He is a clever bugger isn't he Quote Link to post
donky7 9 Posted May 5, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2008 (edited) the rodenticide i'm currently using is sacarat bromabait, they are definatly eating it.... the bait thats in situ now is just compound cattle feed, and yes girls,, a little too much was applied. the gap between the ramps, and entry hole s were out of my hands, so to speak... i gave my measurements along with a fenn, and back it came. (mk 1) but the challenge makes the difference.... i dont wont to wipe all the rats out,,, what would i shoot at... on average i shoot at this 1 particular farm 3 nights a week, with body counts from 4 to 15 on each visit. thanks matt.. i plan to send off samples to sharon, from sorex as soon as. thanks for the coments. Donks. ( & milo) Edited May 5, 2008 by donky7 Quote Link to post
OldTrapCollector 377 Posted May 5, 2008 Report Share Posted May 5, 2008 two six inch planks nailed or screwed together to form a v shape eighteen inches long and you have your tunnel They are good to place against the edge of a stone wall etc if you make them this way too OTC Quote Link to post
donky7 9 Posted May 6, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2008 6 inch wont give you the height for a fenn....??? am i missing a plank.... Quote Link to post
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