tikka t3 varmint zeoring problems

[cramp 4]

yes cramp home loads are better , but surely them federals should group better than that , they were all over the bleeding place , neither me or my mate could get them to group ,beginning to think theres something up with the gun or maybe it has just got to be broke in ?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

some ammo DONT SUITE different guns [bANNED TEXT] i had a Parker hale 308 i it would not take to remmys at all it took me ages to find the right round for it in the end i found Norma the best for that gun. but if you home load you can find the perfect round with my .243 its on H4895 at 34grn with 95grn nosler and the proof is in the pudding

 

[nutshot 0]

nice shooting cramp ,they sure do the business for you met ;

[Guest baldie]

I can guess what the problem is?, you,ve shot 30 rounds, and havent followed a break in procedure? Another favourite on synthetic stocked guns, is lack of rigidity in the forend, they look fine when youve got it in your hand, testing with a bit of card for free float, but can vary wildly, when you are laid down with the gun, on a bipod, stressing the stock by pulling it into you.Tikka,s are reknowned for being flimsy in the forend, along with the synthetic steyr mannlicher,s too

[nutshot 0]

as you can tell i;m new to this centrefire game baldie , so what is the break in procedure ? and do you think it will improve things ,and as for the stock ,any ideas there to met .

[Guest baldie]

Right mate, start with the barrel. You need a good copper solvent, and a phosphor bronze cleaning brush and rod, give it some and get that barrel clean of all copper, cos in a new gun, you are going to have put some into it. A new barrel is like a motorcycle or car barrel, its surface is rough and porous, and needs to be smoothed over by each shot, but needs the copper removing along the way. Here,s the method i use. On a perfectly clean barrel, fire once and clean thoroughly to remove all copper, then fire again, and repeat the cleaning procedure. Do this for the first five shots, then clean every 3 shots, up to 20 shots fired.Then for the next 20 shots, clean every 5 shots. Done properly, this will take at least half a day.I,ve seen several guns that werent "shot in" and none of them would shoot 1" at 100 yards.People will tell you it isnt neccessary, on a match grade barrel, it isnt, because they are hand lapped, and smooth enough already, but a factory barrel isnt, idle people dont shoot barrels in. All mine are shot in, and will shoot 1/2" at 100 yards, if i do my bit.This will reduce your groups, even if the remmy ammo doesnt suit your gun, give hornady ammo a try too, its top quality, also try a lighter weight bullet, 40, or 50 grain. If this doesnt work, we will discuss the stock

[nutshot 0]

thanks baldie , i will give it a go and let you know the out come thanks to you and all the other members for your advice .

[cramp 4]

baldie do how often do you clean your centre fires i have not cleaned my .243 for a month or two about 100rounds

[Guest baldie]

I always give them a pull through with a dry patch, just to remove the muck when ever i use them, but a proper clean, around a 100 rounds. I always take the mods off for storage too, you dont want the acidic gases in the mod, in your barrel during storage.

[kiwi 4]

ya beat me to it baldie :11: sounds like the stainless barrel is still raw, i assume the t3 is stainless. they can chew through a lot of ammo til they start putting them on top of each other, shoot and clean is the way to go 55grs should be the load to use rather than the light stuff while breaking in the barrel.

[Guest Foxygrunter]

I WOULD GO DOWN THE ROAD OF OTHER AMMO MATE 30 ROUNDS WONT BRAKE A GUN IN BUT A TIKKA 22 250 SHOULD GIVE YOU A GOOD GROUP FROM THE BOX . The mounts is an option as they might be moving but if there tight it would still give a good group but would be hard to POI . Let us know how you go but ill bet after checking its the crap ammo that the factorys dish out. I WOULD LIKE TO ADD THAT TIKKA MOUNTS ARE DIFFERNT THAN SAKO THE SET UP IS ALL WRONG. I just cant believe a gun smith wouldnt put the right mounts on so will discount that one ha ha

[pegandgun 52]

If you want to clean your barrel less you can use Molly coated bullets.I molly coat all my own bullets and only clean my barrel every shots or so.I have been able to increase my powder loads by a few grains on my .243(i am over two grains over maximum loads using Molly) as well which gives a few more foot pounds and fps.

Ive never broke a rifle in like that baldie and still manage 3/4" groups no problem.It seems like alot of work but it obviously works for you

I think its your scope or mounts.When i buy a new rifle i clean the barrel thoroughly then shoot good groups straight away without any problems.

Have you checked that your stock is tight??

[v-max 2]

Hello my friend had a sako 75 22.250 bullbarrel wooden stalk shot 3inch group's out the box new

& an inch with my home load's v-max with BLC-2 powder but after about 60 or so round's it tightend

up to 1 inch group's with remmy 55g bullet's factory & about half inch with my same home load.Rifle's

can be very fussy with bullet's & some can take nearly 100 round's to shoot in.I got a REMMY ADL at same

time as my mate in 22.250 & first 5 bullet's were within an inch group i cleaned rifle after every outing for

first 100 round's to help shoot it in only clean once a month now but iv seen so many rifle's thro factory

bullet's 4/5 inch group's then another brand within an inch but most rifle's do well with most but you find

1 it like's well.

[pegandgun 52]

My mates a bench rest shooter.The other day we where out doing abit of paper punching at 200,300 and 400yds.He shoots a 6mm BR round (basically a shortened .243 round).His rifle is totaly custom build and cost a fortune.

Now he loaded fifty bullets all with exactly the same powder weight and the same bullet heads.The fist ten bullets where seated 20thaw off the lanze and he shot 3" groups at 300yds.

The second ten bullets where seated 15thaw off the lanze and he shot 4" groups at 300yds.

The third ten bullets where seated 10thaw off the lanze and he shot 2" GROUPS AT 300YND.

The fourth ten bullets whre seated 5thaw off the lanze and he shot two (five shot groups) groups of 3/4 of an inch at 300yds.

The fifth ten bullets where seated touching the lanze and shot 1" groups at 300yds.

All these loads where using the exact same amount of powder and the same 105gr bullet heads.This just shows how important seating depth is when you are doing load development.

Factory loads are made to fit all rifle chambers and are therefor a very short bullet and not too accurate.

[Guest baldie]

Very good post peg, and completely true, i didnt want to start on that subject yet There are too many variables to be able to say with any certainty, that this could be the problem, it depends on how near the SAAMI standard his remmy ammo is, and how much freebore his tikka has, we are pissing in the wind on this subject, without checking the gun really.I,m still tying to source the s/h bits to build my own 6br, its one hellova round for long range.I,ve got my .204, and my 223 both doing 1/2" AT 100, and have just got a stoney point oal guage and comparator, to start messing with over all lengths, load developement is a long and winding road

[Squirrel_Basher 17,100]

I dont think anybody answered the question asked"what is break in procedure".

Im not that well up on the technical side of rifle shooting but I do know that unless the rifle is fitted with a heavy duty varmint barrel ,you cannot put round after round through it straight off.Each round fired causes the barrel to heat up and distortion on a small scale is the result,causing a drastick loss of accuracy.A period of cool off is required between each shot and I take this to be the break in procedure.