Recall Training - 10 month old pup

[Danny_ 0]

I have been using the book written by Brian Plummer as my reference for training this pup, and it has proved invaluable. When I call the pup he comes running towards me like he hasnt seen me in a million years so excited and eager to impress. However, this only works when there is nothing more interesting happening (another dog).

 

Of course once the dogs have tired he will come back to me, but this to me is not acceptable! In hancocks book it doesnt actually go into a cure for this other than to say do not chastise the pup as this will be counter-productive.

 

Is this just a fact of life with puppies? If I continue with his training as is, will he eventually grow out of ignoring me?

[SMOGGY 34]

it hard work isn't it mate i have the same problem and mines 18 month some day are better than other i just wish there was a quick fix

[alexewers 0]

Hi Danny

what sort of dog is it and how long have you had her

[Danny_ 0]

Hi Danny

what sort of dog is it and how long have you had her

 

He is a blue mearl 3/4 greyhound 1/4 collie he came to the family at 12 weeks and we have had him for about 8 months. Unfortunately I have not been around for most of this but I do spend a lot of time with the dog now I am back and am hoping to be able to work him. My main interest at the moment though is the obedience training as if I was a land owner I would not want an unruly dog running round my land!

 

Thanks for the quick replies!

[alexewers 0]

do you no of someone with a dog that can be put on a lead and gradually vary the difficulty of the recall over time and just remember they may only be 10 months but in dog years they are about 6 years old

[Danny_ 0]

do you no of someone with a dog that can be put on a lead and gradually vary the difficulty of the recall over time and just remember they may only be 10 months but in dog years they are about 6 years old

 

Yes, I have another dog! How would you vary the difficulty of the recall though as as soon as the dog has seen another he bolts (sometimes he doesnt but 90% of the time he does). Could you explain simply how I would go through this process?

 

I have also been reccomended to use an electric collar and I have access to one of these, but I want to explore all other avenue's first.

 

Thanks again for your help!

[alexewers 0]

do you no of someone with a dog that can be put on a lead and gradually vary the difficulty of the recall over time and just remember they may only be 10 months but in dog years they are about 6 years old

 

Yes, I have another dog! How would you vary the difficulty of the recall though as as soon as the dog has seen another he bolts (sometimes he doesnt but 90% of the time he does). Could you explain simply how I would go through this process?

 

I have also been reccomended to use an electric collar and I have access to one of these, but I want to explore all other avenue's first.

 

Thanks again for your help!

first off all dont even go down the electric collar route and second of all you start off with the other dog on a lead then do your recall then you really want a dog that your dog doesn't always see every day so he isn't used it ,to try and make it bullet proof then gradually let the lead off the other dog and try the recall if all else fails use a check lead as a last resort and above all establish a very strong bond with your dog as this is the corner stone of any training if your dog is food orientated every time she comes back give her a treat to start with

Edited April 23, 2008 by alexewers

[Caravan Monster 323]

Practice recall with both dogs at the same time and ocassionaly reward the first dog to reach your side with fuss/ tit bit ? - that might speed the pup up and make him concentrate.

 

Maybe look beyond lurcher manuals for training info.- they can a bit vague. I' ve heard people recommend gundog training books. General and sheepdog training books written by John Holmes are v. good- lots of insight to be found there.

 

Keep on with the training- it' ll really pay off in the long run.

[alexewers 0]

Maybe look beyond lurcher manuals for training info.- they can a bit vague. I' ve heard people recommend gundog training books. General and sheepdog training books written by John Holmes are v. good- lots of insight to be found there.

 

Keep on with the training- it' ll really pay off in the long run.

 

I am giving a perspective from how i train spaniels as thats what i do but i do not ever train two dogs at the same time during training as they tend to feed off each others misbehaviour as others will agree

[Guest jeb]

I have been using the book written by Brian Plummer as my reference for training this pup, and it has proved invaluable. When I call the pup he comes running towards me like he hasnt seen me in a million years so excited and eager to impress. However, this only works when there is nothing more interesting happening (another dog).

 

Of course once the dogs have tired he will come back to me, but this to me is not acceptable! In hancocks book it doesnt actually go into a cure for this other than to say do not chastise the pup as this will be counter-productive.

 

Is this just a fact of life with puppies? If I continue with his training as is, will he eventually grow out of ignoring me?

HOPE SO MINE IS GOING THAT WAY I THINK ITS A CASE OF BEING TO NORMAL ....NOT A BOOK CRITIC BUT I HAVE A BOOK BY JACKIE DRAKEFORD AND ITS A BIBLE MATE THAT WOMEN KNOWS HER STUFF DONE AS SHE SAYS AND NEVER FAILED MY YET!

[Danny_ 0]

do you no of someone with a dog that can be put on a lead and gradually vary the difficulty of the recall over time and just remember they may only be 10 months but in dog years they are about 6 years old

 

Yes, I have another dog! How would you vary the difficulty of the recall though as as soon as the dog has seen another he bolts (sometimes he doesnt but 90% of the time he does). Could you explain simply how I would go through this process?

 

I have also been reccomended to use an electric collar and I have access to one of these, but I want to explore all other avenue's first.

 

Thanks again for your help!

first off all dont even go down the electric collar route and second of all you start off with the other dog on a lead then do your recall then you really want a dog that your dog doesn't always see every day so he isn't used it ,to try and make it bullet proof then gradually let the lead off the other dog and try the recall if all else fails use a check lead as a last resort and above all establish a very strong bond with your dog as this is the corner stone of any training if your dog is food orientated every time she comes back give her a treat to start with

 

Ok thanks for the advice, I will start this weekend, unfortunately I do not know another dog I can try this technique with so will have to make do with spike.

 

My last question is, why is it that the dog knows what I want it to do yet does not do it (becomes deaf) when certain things happen, and what is it that stops this. i.e why would he come to me and forfeit the chase? It seems to be a willpower issue!?

 

What are all your opinions on this clicker training I keep reading about?

Edited April 23, 2008 by Danny_

[Guest oneredtrim]

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Edited April 24, 2008 by oneredtrim

[Danny_ 0]

Put the dog on a line, give yourself 30ft arms (and some foot brakes)...then find some tempters. Best trying the recall when something is found that the dog is intrested in (more intrested in than you/marking a spot will do opposed to an unknown dog), once the dogs successfully recalled don't myther with the praise but instantly re-send him/her to the spot...that way the dog will learn that touching base reaps a dividend....re send the dog instantly....within the same second it's touched base (you) any waiting/delays will negate the exercise. Practise with the spot until the dog will recall off it 100% and then find another type, fix that, then find or set up a friendly type of mutt to offer some distraction, once again allowing the dog to run and greet the contrived dog the moment it successfully recalls. Good luck.

 

When you say to put the dog on the line, would you give the dog a quick 'check' (snap the lead) if he were to ignore my calls or just let him get on with it?

 

There are some great ideas being posted, I cant wait to try them all out! I have a retractable lead and Im currently thinking of a mixture of all these techniques. I will also probably get a gun dog or sheepdog book when I get paid!

[Guest oneredtrim]

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Edited April 24, 2008 by oneredtrim

[Danny_ 0]

I found the following on a website (http://www.burns-pet-nutrition.co.uk/Articles/Stan_recall.htm) and it has also helped in my thinking! Im just looking for a nice long lunge now!

 

"Rectifying Recall Problems

If you are already having recall problems then you need to go back to basics - you will need to initially practice the sit stay command at home.

 

To set this well the dog should be on a lead, preferably 5 foot long with a Jingler (see my website for this device). Get the dog to sit with the dog on your left side holding the lead in you left hand. Using the cupped palm of your right hand bring it to the dogs nose saying “Stay†three times. Swivel in front of the dog so you are facing it pick up the loop of the lead but make sure you keep your left hand on the lead as well - this is your control hand. Slowly back up to the length of the lead with the left hand about as third of the way back up the lead.

 

If your dog moves or tries to follow, lift the lead upwards with your left hand and say “Stayâ€. This will activate the Jingler, Keep repeating until you think the dog has the message, then start dropping the lead and moving further backwards. If your dog starts moving, you have gone too far to fast, therefore shorten the distance again. Do this about three times a day for about five minutes per time.

 

Practice this till you can move 100 feet away without the dog moving then after a couple of days call your dog to you every third time, use either the Whistle, Come, Here or his name. Only treat the best stays and the best results. Once you feel you have mastered this, it is time to use the lunge rein.

 

Practice the sit stay in the park or field but this time with the 35 foot horse lunge rein; take a friend who will hold the dog whilst you hide behind a tree or fence then call the dog. When he finds you give him a favourite treat and repeat the exercise.

 

After a couple of days allow the dog to walk free but with the lunge rein still kept on dragging behind. Keep standing on it at different lengths whilst issuing the recall command - so the dog thinks you are in control at all distances.

 

If the dog takes off after a bird or another dog, either stand on the lead or pick it up to stop the charge. The dog will get the message that you are in control and cease chasing after a while. During all of this work, we must give the dog lots of praise and treats. After a few weeks of keeping the lunge rein on you can reduce it down by putting on a normal lead, then after a few more weeks remove it completely.

 

As always, the best strategy for training is to set your dog up to succeed and to not condition in a problem that will have to be rectified later on in the training."