Help needed

[Corky(amateur) 0]

Hi all,

not posted on this before, usually post on the ferreters side but here goes.

Recently i started making my own purse nets as i am not made of money and obviosly until next season, i've got plenty of time to make them. anyway, i am currently making a longnet!, hopefully about 25-35 yards, 17 meshes wide. it's about 25-30 meshes long and i'm starting to struggle as i cannot keep the net tight! any advice to solve this problem?!

many thanks

Corky

[R_Oldroyd 17]

Hi

 

17 meshes wide wow, that is wide they are usually about 12 to 14 wide mucker, there are also a few threads about how to ensure that your longnet runs straight.

 

Regards Roger

[Corky(amateur) 0]

Great! found all my info in jon hutcheons book "Long netting & net-making" says 17 esh. well i'll have plenty of bag anyway. by the way, any chance you could explain the use of an anchor pin. i don't understand it

kind regards

Corky

[Rolfe 2]

Great! found all my info in jon hutcheons book "Long netting & net-making" says 17 esh. well i'll have plenty of bag anyway. by the way, any chance you could explain the use of an anchor pin. i don't understand it

kind regards

Corky

The Anchor pins (one at each end of the net) are to keept the net taught after the setting pegs are positioned. Push one anchor pin into the ground after the net has been run out, and work back towards the other anchor pin fixing setting pegs every 5 yards or so keeping the head and foot lines tight as you do so. When you reach the other anchor pin pull the net tight and bush it firmly into the ground.This is when setting nets in the daytime. I follow a different procedure at night as we usually work in pairs, and i set the net whilst the helper lets the nets off the anchor pins a hank at a time. This helps stop debris getting caught in the meshes. Obviously the other main use of the anchor pin is to hold the net as you pick it back up again at the end of the drop.

 

Rolfe.

[R_Oldroyd 17]

The problem with a net that is 17 meshs wide is that you will trip over it when setting and picking up the net. You will be trailing net on the floor picking up as much debris as you are trying to remove from the net.

 

I would suggest making the 17 mesh net into a kinda ditch net. and restarting your long net at 12 / 13 /14 meshs tops depending on the size of mesh board you are using and of cause the material that you are knitting with.

 

if you are making a hemp net weight is a major factor that is why they are 1 2 / 13 meshes @ 2 and quarter in mu opinion. I now make them with 4ply as you get more distance for you money though my 5ply nets are still going strong. Heavy to carry and best used for day work.

 

Put you head and foot lines through the end pin rings. This is important when setting the net allowing you to set the bottom line loose and the top line tight.

 

Hope this info helps a little regards Roger

Edited April 11, 2008 by R_Oldroyd

[Corky(amateur) 0]

yeah, great help guys, thanks alot. could you replace the anchor pins with permananet pegs?, ie instead of attaching it to an anchor pin, atttach a peg so you just push in the end pegs and then put in the rest of your pegs?

Best wishes

Corky

[mole catcher 1]

The problem with a net that is 17 meshs wide is that you will trip over it when setting and picking up the net. You will be trailing net on the floor picking up as much debris as you are trying to remove from the net.

 

when hanking a net on end pins if you keep your hanks short and not an arms length hank as most would suggest, you will find the gathered net wont be long and it wont cause you to trip over it. keeping the hanks short will solve this problem on even the widest of nets as it is the length of the running lines taken up in the hank that cause the netting to hang low. with that in mind it stands to reason that if you keep the hanks short (short amount of running line in each hank) the netting wont be hanging lowwer as it would on long hanks