luketurner 0 Posted March 10, 2008 Report Share Posted March 10, 2008 Recently been told about the 'one shot' zero, is this a good idea for sighting in a new rifle? Or does it need a bit more effort than that? Quote Link to post
Deker 3,478 Posted March 11, 2008 Report Share Posted March 11, 2008 Recently been told about the 'one shot' zero, is this a good idea for sighting in a new rifle? Or does it need a bit more effort than that? Perhaps you better ask whoever told you about this miraculous "one shot zero" 'cos I don't know what they are talking about. Then perhaps you would be kind enough to explain to me how it works! Quote Link to post
mole trapper 1,693 Posted March 11, 2008 Report Share Posted March 11, 2008 Must be using a bore laser jobby, or bore sighting, on a good day i can get within a inch and a half with the latter, but would never fork out the kind of money they want for the former. Quote Link to post
mjjl 0 Posted March 11, 2008 Report Share Posted March 11, 2008 i think it goes something like this, securely strap down rifle or in some way make it so that it can't move, fire 1 round then adjust cross hairs so they are spot on the bullet hole. i think i will be sticking with zeroing the long way though. Quote Link to post
luketurner 0 Posted March 11, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2008 Recently been told about the 'one shot' zero, is this a good idea for sighting in a new rifle? Or does it need a bit more effort than that? Fire one shot with the rifle on bags or in a clamp, then without moving the rifle, have one person look through the scope and the other adjust the scope so that the sight lines up smack on the first bullet hole. That is what I have been told, sounds to make sense, but not sure how easy it is to not move the rifle. Quote Link to post
stillair1 16 Posted March 11, 2008 Report Share Posted March 11, 2008 (edited) Was there not a Shepard scope with a fandango ret which claimed to be zeroed with one shot. Confused me too. http://www.shepherdscopes.com/oneshot.asp Edited March 11, 2008 by stillair1 Quote Link to post
SNAP SHOT 194 Posted March 11, 2008 Report Share Posted March 11, 2008 this way is not really the norm, but i've seen it tried, the only problem is that when the rifle is clamped, it doesn't mimic the shooters natural hold of the rifle, and the piont of impact shifts a little, but nothing will beat the tried and tested, old style. including bore-sighting and zeroing i use about 4-6 shots at 100 yard zero, if changing ammo type normaly two to three shots i will have re-zero. so why waste time trying to futter about with keeping the rifle steady, and re checking to see if you have moved it which is hard if the rifle is not clamped. tried and tested old style zero will not be beat. Quote Link to post
garyw 0 Posted March 11, 2008 Report Share Posted March 11, 2008 the one shot zero is not easy you have to bore sight the rifle first by looking down the barrel[bolt out of course]line the bore up with your chosen target a cross or dot or what ever make sure the rifle is securly held down[get the wife to sit on it] make the first shot.the rifle should not move at all,you then have to adjust the scope to get the cross hair/dot or what ever to line up with the bullet hole. this sounds easy but its a pain in the ar*e.i find the best way is to fire 2 shots at a point of aim on a stone wall 50yds away this will show where the bullets are shooting in relation to your point of aim.adjust windage/elevation for the 2 shots shoot 2 more see where they strike you should be within 1" of point of aim.now set up a paper target at 100yds fire 3 shots at your chosen p.o.a. see where you are and adjust accordingly. i sight all my rifles/scopes this way and can find my intended zero in 6-8 shots.this way your not wasting stacks of ammo. garyw Quote Link to post
Irish Lurcher 1,013 Posted March 12, 2008 Report Share Posted March 12, 2008 this way is not really the norm, but i've seen it tried, the only problem is that when the rifle is clamped, it doesn't mimic the shooters natural hold of the rifle, and the piont of impact shifts a little, but nothing will beat the tried and tested, old style. including bore-sighting and zeroing i use about 4-6 shots at 100 yard zero, if changing ammo type normaly two to three shots i will have re-zero.so why waste time trying to futter about with keeping the rifle steady, and re checking to see if you have moved it which is hard if the rifle is not clamped. tried and tested old style zero will not be beat. Agree 100%. Quote Link to post
rich.mather 0 Posted March 13, 2008 Report Share Posted March 13, 2008 this way is not really the norm, but i've seen it tried, the only problem is that when the rifle is clamped, it doesn't mimic the shooters natural hold of the rifle, and the piont of impact shifts a little, but nothing will beat the tried and tested, old style. including bore-sighting and zeroing i use about 4-6 shots at 100 yard zero, if changing ammo type normaly two to three shots i will have re-zero.so why waste time trying to futter about with keeping the rifle steady, and re checking to see if you have moved it which is hard if the rifle is not clamped. tried and tested old style zero will not be beat. Agree 100%. Feck me you dudes are keen firing at stone walls to zero, check this dude out! Quote Link to post
Squirrel_Basher 17,100 Posted March 13, 2008 Report Share Posted March 13, 2008 My method is to shoot at a target at 25 yards first to make sure you hit the target .A few more shots to get it on at 25 yds ,then move back to the 100 .It will only take a couple more to get it up to zero from here as the left to right is spot on already . Quote Link to post
Born Hunter 17,751 Posted March 13, 2008 Report Share Posted March 13, 2008 Recently been told about the 'one shot' zero, is this a good idea for sighting in a new rifle? Or does it need a bit more effort than that? Just a guess, In theory (as we all know not so simple in reality), you could fire 1 shot at a target at your prefered zero range (for example 100 meters), then by measuring the verticle displacement and the horizontal displacement, make the correction on your scope knowing that 1/4 m.o.a is 1 click which moves the cross hairs buy 1/4 of an inch at 100 meters. So if you were zeroing at 100 meters and your shot was 2inches low and 3 inches to the right, then you would make a correction of 8 clicks up and 12 clicks to the left. Quote Link to post
Deker 3,478 Posted March 13, 2008 Report Share Posted March 13, 2008 Well..there you go...not many days go by when I don't learn something! So... a couple of variations on the theme but I would not be confident in any. Lots of ways to minimise rounds fired to zero but at the end of the day I would not trust any of these methods without live fire tests! But some useful hints and tips! Quote Link to post
SNAP SHOT 194 Posted March 13, 2008 Report Share Posted March 13, 2008 this way is not really the norm, but i've seen it tried, the only problem is that when the rifle is clamped, it doesn't mimic the shooters natural hold of the rifle, and the piont of impact shifts a little, but nothing will beat the tried and tested, old style. including bore-sighting and zeroing i use about 4-6 shots at 100 yard zero, if changing ammo type normaly two to three shots i will have re-zero.so why waste time trying to futter about with keeping the rifle steady, and re checking to see if you have moved it which is hard if the rifle is not clamped. tried and tested old style zero will not be beat. Agree 100%. Feck me you dudes are keen firing at stone walls to zero, check this dude out! Never fired at a stone wall in my life!!!!!!! where does it say this in my post...... Quote Link to post
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