KIPO 2 Posted March 1, 2008 Report Share Posted March 1, 2008 Does anyone here use wax for their traps? If so, is there a supplier in the UK? Hi I use fish oil . kipo Quote Link to post
Guest Ditch_Shitter Posted March 1, 2008 Report Share Posted March 1, 2008 Me, Matt? Never waxed a trap in my life. I guess I can see the point on Juby and Imbra. Different kind of steel. They'll rust up just sitting on the shelf. But their brass furniture ensures the important bits work and the power of a Juby spring, at least, would laughingly defy any normal level of rust to stop it. And that leads me to another consideration: The Yanks tend to do their traps black. Black waxed traps look sexy as hell, it must be said. But then, they tend to bury theirs thoroughly. I actually very seldom do. Thus I'd suggest green or 'brown' dye may be more in keeping with british ways? Cammo as much for idiots as animals. Better for a pincer type with its arms exposed just inside a bury, look. Anyway, as for the waxes themselves? Parrafin wax is about as inert a substance as ye get. No smell from it. Bees wax however is a softer wax and may well emit a discernable odour. Polish a prized bit of wood with it and ye'll soon see what I mean. Not sure if say, a bunny, may pick up on that? Best place I know - for the American Experience - in all this is, of course, my old mate Paul Dobbins' place; TrapperMan. Having said all that; I was just earlier saying to Mr Waters how I plan to buy a suitable shade or two of paint and paint my own Juby's and such. Probably slap a bit on some old Fenn's too. That's to hide them from eyes though Quote Link to post
ChrisJones 7,975 Posted March 1, 2008 Report Share Posted March 1, 2008 Was that an 'all over' waxing, or just a 'brazilian' on the spring Chris? The firm I used to work for was notoriously thrifty. My trap storage was limited to plastic tubs in the back of my Renault Kangoo! Saying that old packets of silica gel seemed to keep excess moisture, inside the tubs, at bay. The waxing depended on the location and the visible check on the condition of the trap. All the traps springs were waxed from day one. A liberal rub down, on the springs, was job #1. This wax was topped up where necessary while the traps were weathered outside. I wasn't too concerned with corrosion, during normal wear and tear, but I worked around a few salt mines and you can imagine the abuse the alkalinity gave these traps. For these it was a wire brush and liberal dosing of beeswax whenever necessary. I accept that this sort of behaviour isn't necessary but I'm an obsessive compulsive when it comes to keeping things dry. Too many years in old Land Rovers has taught me that moisture is not always a good thing. Quote Link to post
proper job 1 Posted March 1, 2008 Report Share Posted March 1, 2008 Liquid paraffin, it's odourless and acts like an oil, used too be used on horses with colic. Quote Link to post
moley 115 Posted March 1, 2008 Report Share Posted March 1, 2008 Liquid paraffin, it's odourless and acts like an oil, used too be used on horses with colic. i dye alot of my traps , but never waxed them , a decent coat of spay paint can do a good job too , but the usa trap dye is designed for the job and seems to pit into the rust and stay there,never liked to use rusty traps at all , far too slow and noisey i always found the black trap dye was a bit too black Quote Link to post
Phil Lloyd 10,738 Posted March 2, 2008 Report Share Posted March 2, 2008 Liquid paraffin, it's odourless and acts like an oil, used too be used on horses with colic. i dye alot of my traps , but never waxed them , a decent coat of spay paint can do a good job too , but the usa trap dye is designed for the job and seems to pit into the rust and stay there,never liked to use rusty traps at all , far too slow and noisey i always found the black trap dye was a bit too black My favourite tin of Speed Dip comes in a nice shade of BROWN...... Quote Link to post
Rolfe 2 Posted March 2, 2008 Report Share Posted March 2, 2008 I have always used clear candle wax to lubricate all my trap and cage springs...........also rubbed on fox wires as well to let them glide. There is no odour ....and it helps repel moisture as well. Never ever use WD40 or similar oils...........the stink lingers for months..........if you have committed such a crime then get boiling your traps ASAP. Rolfe. Quote Link to post
Matt 160 Posted March 2, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2008 Me, Matt? Never waxed a trap in my life. I guess I can see the point on Juby and Imbra. Different kind of steel. They'll rust up just sitting on the shelf. But their brass furniture ensures the important bits work and the power of a Juby spring, at least, would laughingly defy any normal level of rust to stop it. Ye read my mind ditch... I was thinking about speeding up me ole Imbras. Posted Today, 12:12 AM I have always used clear candle wax to lubricate all my trap and cage springs...........also rubbed on fox wires as well to let them glide. There is no odour ....and it helps repel moisture as well. Never ever use WD40 or similar oils...........the stink lingers for months..........if you have committed such a crime then get boiling your traps ASAP. Rolfe. Somehow, I thought you would be a 'dyer' Rolfey. WD40? Only a wally would use that on traps Right lads, next question: Would you dye and wax? Or does the dye have enough of the same effect as wax to make it unnecessary? Anyone for SpeedDip? Quote Link to post
DUCKWING 302 Posted March 2, 2008 Report Share Posted March 2, 2008 WELL LADS , LIKE CHALKIE ... AFTER GUIDENCE FROM SNAREMAN ..... I DECIDED TO CLEAN UP A FEW TRAPS AND SEE THE DIFFERENCE , TOOK A FEW TO A MATE AND HE SHOT BLASTED THEM , THEY CAME OUT BRAND NEW ! ...... . AFTER THAT A GOOD DEGREASEING ..... THEN A METAL PRIMER ADDED .... FOLLOWED BY A FEW COATS OF VAUXHALL LEAF GREEN....... , AFTER THAT ....... A DIPPING IN THE MELTED CANDLE WAX AND LEFT TO DRIP DRY ..... HELL THEY FIRED WELL ....... AFTER THAT ?....... I DID EVERY TRAP I OWN ....... I BELIVE IT MAKES A BIG DIFFERENCE , LIKE SNAREMAN DRUMMED INTO ME ............ " A PROFESSIONAL DOESNT HAVE TRAPS CREAKING LIKE RUSTY OLD DOOR HINGES !! " ALL THE BEST DUCKWING Quote Link to post
Guest Ditch_Shitter Posted March 2, 2008 Report Share Posted March 2, 2008 Right lads, next question: Would you dye and wax? Or does the dye have enough of the same effect as wax to make it unnecessary? Matt; Unless ye talking about blacking them by walnut husks, Speed Dip or something, then waxing them? I can only reitterate that I've never personally waxed a trap but, I've made a healthy living from making candles at one time. So I can assure ye that dying wax is about as simple and straightforeward as it gets. If ye wanted green? Simple. Brown - because they don't make brown dye (Who in hell would want brown candles??? :sick:) - would be a case of using Black dye, but diluting it in wax till the shade weakened. It can be done, believe me. Just try to fill an order for a few dozen Black candles and not have enough black dye to hand So, what I'm saying is that - if ye choose to Wax ye traps? Why on earth Not add some dye that wax as ye melt it? Buy a tablet of green or black dye where ever ye find ye wax. I can't possibly access such stuff from where I am now, or else I'd do it myself, just for demonstration purposes. Maybe I'll paint some traps and then go the hellishly expensive route of buying candles to melt? I'd be curious to see wax over a paint job myself Never fancied Speed Dip myself. As said; I don't fancy setting jet black objects in nature. Quote Link to post
Matt 160 Posted March 3, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2008 OK, my plan is to get some brown Speed Dip, and some wax, and I'll post some pics of the process and the results. I may also do some in Oak Bark, just to show the difference.............. Now I've just got to find a supplier........................................... Quote Link to post
snareman 3 Posted March 3, 2008 Report Share Posted March 3, 2008 WELL LADS , LIKE CHALKIE ... AFTER GUIDENCE FROM SNAREMAN ..... I DECIDED TO CLEAN UP A FEW TRAPS AND SEE THE DIFFERENCE , TOOK A FEW TO A MATE AND HE SHOT BLASTED THEM , THEY CAME OUT BRAND NEW ! ...... . AFTER THAT A GOOD DEGREASEING ..... THEN A METAL PRIMER ADDED .... FOLLOWED BY A FEW COATS OF VAUXHALL LEAF GREEN....... , AFTER THAT ....... A DIPPING IN THE MELTED CANDLE WAX AND LEFT TO DRIP DRY ..... HELL THEY FIRED WELL ....... AFTER THAT ?....... I DID EVERY TRAP I OWN ....... I BELIVE IT MAKES A BIG DIFFERENCE , LIKE SNAREMAN DRUMMED INTO ME ............ " A PROFESSIONAL DOESNT HAVE TRAPS CREAKING LIKE RUSTY OLD DOOR HINGES !! " ALL THE BEST DUCKWING i have dyed and waxed traps for over 20 years before anyone in this country thought about it , i was taught out in canada , the north americans have been doing it for a hell of a long time as they have to keep their traps in top nick to work in all weather conditions , as they earn their living with them , so, only a fool would try and use rusty traps, but over in the uk, they seemed to be heart lazy , and the most of the peoples traps that i have seen are usually red with rust , and when they pull the jaws open its like two old creaking castle doors opening , no wonder a lot of foul catches are made and also misses , hard white paraffin wax is what you need , if you look after the traps they will look after you ,waxing traps is certainly not a new idea. Quote Link to post
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