snareing on tattie fields

[snareman1234 0]

as long as you can see there run and there hop you can set them between each hop as you would set in a grass field

you can set snares anywhere there are runs , i snare them running up the vertical faces of dry stone walls at times its quite easy onece you gain experience . and you don,t set snares between the beats , you set them right across the middle of the beat .

 

 

snareman how do you set up a snare in the middle of a field? do you use a wire hoop or a stake and tealer or what?

[snareman 3]

as long as you can see there run and there hop you can set them between each hop as you would set in a grass field

you can set snares anywhere there are runs , i snare them running up the vertical faces of dry stone walls at times its quite easy onece you gain experience . and you don,t set snares between the beats , you set them right across the middle of the beat .

 

 

snareman how do you set up a snare in the middle of a field? do you use a wire hoop or a stake and tealer or what?

why don,t you go onto the pinned section and read what has been put up about snaring and you won,t need to be continually asking these questions

[Guest jackson]

As long as you can see the rabbit runs you can set a wire anywhere.......but always set ON the beats and not between them, yes you can catch rabbits between the beats.........but this is not the correct place to set a wire for consistant catches. Obviously on grassland the rabbit runs are far more distinct than on plough or drilled fields.

 

Rolfe.

one of the hardest places ive ever set was a old raf run way.

set up during the war about 600 yards long and 20 wide with heavy growth on both sides.

could have wired the the edge,but thought id give it a go in the middle of the run.

had to look for the pumps ,hard to see but they were there. thanks to some moss here and there.

had to nail my wires in with six inch nails, with a ten inch wire prick coming off the head of the nail.

first night i had 27 out of 60 wires, not good returns but the hardest snaring ive done, i thought i needed to test myselfe

thats all, and looking back i think i did ok, wouldent do it again i dont think it was hard work

[alimac 882]

By tattie do you mean plough ?

 

well done lloyd, thats another gem

[Guest little_lloyd]

By tattie do you mean plough ?

 

well done lloyd, thats another gem

 

 

Well we dont call potato feilds tatties Call em spud rows and Plough is just Dirt rows,, our huntsmen gets very annoyed with it all!! lol

[Columbidae 0]

you can set snares anywhere there are runs , i snare them running up the vertical faces of dry stone walls at times its quite easy onece you gain experience .

 

 

I’ve noticed that rabbits run along the tops of ‘Cornish hedges’, in amongst the gorse and general scrub and on top of the stone and earth walls that the ‘hedge’ grows from. They therefore form little ‘rabbit highways’ that can run for some considerable length. Although the vegetation is thick and often impenetrable, the routes are easily recognisable at this time of year. Due to the nature of the terrain, this means that the rabbits have to force their way through and do not ‘hop’ as they would in the open.

 

What I should like to know is can they effectively be caught along these routes and does the nature of their travel rule out certain methods? For example, is it possible to snare in these circumstances or is it more of a job for traps?

 

Apologies if this is a naïve or even absurd question, but I’m rather new to this!

 

Hello, by the way,

 

Cheers

 

Tom

 

[Rolfe 2]

you can set snares anywhere there are runs , i snare them running up the vertical faces of dry stone walls at times its quite easy onece you gain experience .

 

 

 

 

 

 

Perfect Snaring location..........if rabbits use the runs..........they can be snared........just experiment a little with different settings.

 

Rolfe.

[Columbidae 0]

Excellent! I’ll give it a shot in the not-too-distant future,

 

Cheers,

 

Tom

[snareman 3]

Excellent! I’ll give it a shot in the not-too-distant future,

 

Cheers,

 

Tom

use the hoop snares if you can get them into the ground , on open areas along the top set your snares on middle of the beat, at the normal height 6 inches , when you set out on open runs on grazing grass , you must set each run according to conditions , 6 1/2 is the minimum i set , sometimes you have to set a bit higher, i don,t use hazel tealers , as their days are gone , they were alright and my mentors used them , then when the double wire tealer came on the scene developed by a scotch rabbit trapper all the sharp cookies used them , my old mentor mcmasters developed the single tealer , as they are far better and quick and easy to set out fast , why i set at these heights is becaue i have very few misses , if you set around 4 to 5 inches you have to many misses , you need a good loop to allow for any margin of error , all real pro.s use a big noose , its only the inexperienced guys that use smallnooses and twelve inch twines on their pegged snares , a twine should only be an inch longer than your peg , if i did not make big kills with these latter methods , do you think i would be using it , or giving this info. to you , your bodygrips would work well where the runs entered under the bushes , all the best take care.

[Columbidae 0]

use the hoop snares if you can get them into the ground , on open areas along the top set your snares on middle of the beat, at the normal height 6 inches , when you set out on open runs on grazing grass , you must set each run according to conditions , 6 1/2 is the minimum i set , sometimes you have to set a bit higher, i don,t use hazel tealers , as their days are gone , they were alright and my mentors used them , then when the double wire tealer came on the scene developed by a scotch rabbit trapper all the sharp cookies used them , my old mentor mcmasters developed the single tealer , as they are far better and quick and easy to set out fast , why i set at these heights is becaue i have very few misses , if you set around 4 to 5 inches you have to many misses , you need a good loop to allow for any margin of error , all real pro.s use a big noose , its only the inexperienced guys that use smallnooses and twelve inch twines on their pegged snares , a twine should only be an inch longer than your peg , if i did not make big kills with these latter methods , do you think i would be using it , or giving this info. to you , your bodygrips would work well where the runs entered under the bushes , all the best take care.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cheers very much for that Snareman.

 

The difficulty with these ‘hedge top runs’ is that the rabbits seem to push their way along rather than hop, and consequently there isn’t a regular series of beats to accurately set a snare to.

 

When I’ve watched them move along these routes, they scramble along with their bellies literally dragging the ground.

 

 

 

Can you explain a little more about twine length please? E.g. the benefits of the shorter twine versus the pitfalls of the longer twine, as this is clearly an area that I’ve overlooked!!

 

 

Thanks very much,

 

Tom

Edited February 16, 2008 by Columbidae