WILF 46,549 Posted September 18 Author Report Share Posted September 18 3 hours ago, Greyman said: Top man and nice project you going solar and 12/24 volt or just hooking it to the house, could have both like the boat ?? Be a really interesting project keep the thread going She is thinking about solar, but will have a mains hook up in any case mate 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
WILF 46,549 Posted September 18 Author Report Share Posted September 18 10 hours ago, downsouth said: If you're going with 100mm studs go slightly thinner on insulation if you're using something solid like cellotex or kingspan so as to leave an airgap mate.25mm gap should be adequate. Going to put the solid boards (cellotex ?) in the floors but use the bats on rolls for walls and ceiling mate, saves her about €700 that way ? Still leave 25mm gap in the walls do you advise ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
WILF 46,549 Posted September 18 Author Report Share Posted September 18 3 hours ago, mC HULL said: these the wall board wilf glue staple washable and for you @NEWKIDthe real stuff except no imitations lol That’s a tidy job that stuff mate, I get a feeling it will all be natural timber and then painted. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
downsouth 7,143 Posted September 18 Report Share Posted September 18 Just now, WILF said: Going to put the solid boards (cellotex ?) in the floors but use the bats on rolls for walls and ceiling mate, saves her about €700 that way ? Still leave 25mm gap in the walls do you advise ? I think you can get away with complete fill with the rolls mate but dont 100% take my word for it.I only know about leaving a gap with cellotex in timber frames after helping a pal do a flat roof on an extension I did the groundwork and block work on the other week 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
WILF 46,549 Posted September 18 Author Report Share Posted September 18 3 hours ago, Daniel cain said: If putting a pent style roof then that EDM Rubber roofs are all the rage last 20/25 yrs That’s a great job that stuff, after my time when I was in the building job (I think my last job was the pyramids ! Lol ) but I’ve seen it and it’s a smart system. I think on this we are going for the “Shepherds hut” type look and feel. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
WILF 46,549 Posted September 18 Author Report Share Posted September 18 Just now, downsouth said: I think you can get away with complete fill with the rolls mate but dont 100% take my word for it.I only know about leaving a gap with cellotex in timber frames after helping a pal do a flat roof on an extension I did the groundwork and block work on the other week Cheers mate, I’ll google it. Top man Quote Link to post Share on other sites
WILF 46,549 Posted September 18 Author Report Share Posted September 18 5 hours ago, NEWKID said: Thinking about this last night mate and as the lads have said ventilation is key, I would also use a fibre cement board on the roof, if use profile 3 style.. weve done a few domestic projects with it in black or slate blue, looks really smart..biggest advantage is it minimises the noise of rain plus doesn't sweat like a tin sheet... I clad the inside of my bar with cut down pallet wood, it looks really authentic and is easy to use/cheap To get the head room I’m going to vault the ceiling and clad it in T&G but I’ll strip vent the eves and make sure there’s air flow over everything. 3 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mC HULL 12,127 Posted September 18 Report Share Posted September 18 23 minutes ago, downsouth said: I think you can get away with complete fill with the rolls mate but dont 100% take my word for it.I only know about leaving a gap with cellotex in timber frames after helping a pal do a flat roof on an extension I did the groundwork and block work on the other week i wouldn’t bother in the walls but roof it can’t hurt Quote Link to post Share on other sites
downsouth 7,143 Posted September 18 Report Share Posted September 18 21 minutes ago, WILF said: To get the head room I’m going to vault the ceiling and clad it in T&G but I’ll strip vent the eves and make sure there’s air flow over everything. If you can vent the ridge too it will allow air to flow right through.What are you using on the roof? 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NEWKID 27,047 Posted September 18 Report Share Posted September 18 Word of advice mate, don't just put insulation between roof joists and then roof straight on top, you'll have cold spots over the joists that will condensate.. you need to insulate above the joists as well, can be a lesser thickness but will prevent condensation mate, we've been to a few "leaks" that are due to this.. 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
downsouth 7,143 Posted September 18 Report Share Posted September 18 1 minute ago, NEWKID said: Word of advice mate, don't just put insulation between roof joists and then roof straight on top, you'll have cold spots over the joists that will condensate.. you need to insulate above the joists as well, can be a lesser thickness but will prevent condensation mate, we've been to a few "leaks" that are due to this.. Iwas gunna say if he's gunna use the profiled tin sheeting to spend the extra and buy the stuff that's insulated on the backs for thee roof Quote Link to post Share on other sites
WILF 46,549 Posted September 18 Author Report Share Posted September 18 6 minutes ago, NEWKID said: Word of advice mate, don't just put insulation between roof joists and then roof straight on top, you'll have cold spots over the joists that will condensate.. you need to insulate above the joists as well, can be a lesser thickness but will prevent condensation mate, we've been to a few "leaks" that are due to this.. 11 minutes ago, downsouth said: If you can vent the ridge too it will allow air to flow right through.What are you using on the roof? I was going to sheet over the roof joists with OSB and then sheet over the top of that with steel. What do you reckon lads ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Daniel cain 44,957 Posted September 18 Report Share Posted September 18 45 minutes ago, WILF said: That’s a great job that stuff, after my time when I was in the building job (I think my last job was the pyramids ! Lol ) but I’ve seen it and it’s a smart system. I think on this we are going for the “Shepherds hut” type look and feel. Just thought that by using the rubber it would keep the weight down for when you come to move itbatten, membrane and tiles weigh a fair bit Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NEWKID 27,047 Posted September 18 Report Share Posted September 18 3 minutes ago, WILF said: I was going to sheet over the roof joists with OSB and then sheet over the top of that with steel. What do you reckon lads ? If it was me.. I'd keep the joists exposed as a feature, ply over the top and then insulate above the ply, either with a hard celotrx type insulation or use small roof zeds (metal) and insulate between with cladding roll... (That would be cheaper)... When your closer I'll send you typical details mate, send me your email address again and I'll send you some info so it works... If not a busman's holiday is on the cards! Lol 2 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NEWKID 27,047 Posted September 18 Report Share Posted September 18 2 minutes ago, Daniel cain said: Just thought that by using the rubber it would keep the weight down for when you come to move itbatten, membrane and tiles weigh a fair bit We use Renolit Alkorplan membrane, mate, it's a great system but a bit more involved imo than traditional roof cladding... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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