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is red oxide paint a good choice to put on an old truck chassis once, most of the rust is removed, obviously the chassis won't be totally rust free, we use to use red oxide on the RSJ's for years but these were for inside use, i was thinking after cleaning back the chassis, using the red oxide, then an epoxy primer then top coat, the main reason is, the council use so much salt on the roads over the winter months it kills a chassis in no time, a brand new truck will literally break in half within 6-7 years if you don't under sill it every year, we have to use a goose fat (i think it is)compound here as we are not allowed to use any form of petroleum based product due to having our own drinking water wells, i was thinking of doing the job this way as i want it to last for years and not have to keep on doing it very 2-3 years...when we lived back there i would use old engine oil and diesel as you didn't really get that bad enough winters for any length of time, but here, they could be putting salt down daily for a month if the roads are icy or even more....i was reading a canal forum were a woman put red oxide on the bow of her canal boat (after cleaning most of the rust off) and the rust bled through after a short while as the red oxide is porous, if she had of sealed it with a primer would that have still bled through eventually?....so, after all of that, are there better products out there like por15? that serve my purpose better?.....  

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if you can get proper red oxide (proberly illeagal now) cut it back with thinners...so its almost like water....make sure the surface you are painting is ultra dry ...and it will penitrate and seal off and fill all nooks and crannies...

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Raptor chassis paint is meant to be good or the buzzweld stuff 

As said red oxide isn't what it used to be it's pretty shite nowadays .

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1 hour ago, tillylamp said:

is red oxide paint a good choice to put on an old truck chassis once, most of the rust is removed, obviously the chassis won't be totally rust free, we use to use red oxide on the RSJ's for years but these were for inside use, i was thinking after cleaning back the chassis, using the red oxide, then an epoxy primer then top coat, the main reason is, the council use so much salt on the roads over the winter months it kills a chassis in no time, a brand new truck will literally break in half within 6-7 years if you don't under sill it every year, we have to use a goose fat (i think it is)compound here as we are not allowed to use any form of petroleum based product due to having our own drinking water wells, i was thinking of doing the job this way as i want it to last for years and not have to keep on doing it very 2-3 years...when we lived back there i would use old engine oil and diesel as you didn't really get that bad enough winters for any length of time, but here, they could be putting salt down daily for a month if the roads are icy or even more....i was reading a canal forum were a woman put red oxide on the bow of her canal boat (after cleaning most of the rust off) and the rust bled through after a short while as the red oxide is porous, if she had of sealed it with a primer would that have still bled through eventually?....so, after all of that, are there better products out there like por15? that serve my purpose better?.....  

As said no lead in it so shit this is probably the next best thing 

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thanks for your input guys, much appreciated....the products that have been mentioned seem to be on the right track, after reading a lot more about products and methods it seems like a lot of people are saying/doing...sand blasting it clean, degrease it off, apply rust converter/inhibiter, then epoxy primer and topcoat....sounds like some sort of a plan.....should keep me busy for a while....lol   

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I’d go a boat yard to seek advice. Whatever they use (and would probably  supply you with) will be perfect for an old chassis. Jok.

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used to use a paint called corroless on freshly blasted steel, could leave stuff outside for up to a year in all weathers before any other treatment was needed BUT, as with all first coat/primers this stuff will be slightly porous, has to be for the next coats to have something to grip so they will all need a top or sealing coat if you want the finnish to last. Secret to it all is prep it properly to begin with, skip this bit and no matter how much you spend on carlos fandango top coats you`ll be pissin in the wind with it.

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4 hours ago, jok said:

I’d go a boat yard to seek advice. Whatever they use (and would probably  supply you with) will be perfect for an old chassis. Jok.

Have worked in a boatyard it’s anti foul paint if your in salt water, bitumen or two pack epoxy in fresh water, two pack lasts twice as long but costs twice as much to do 

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1 hour ago, steve t said:

What sort of truck is it?

nothing really special just an older ford f250 diesel truck, it's 34 years old with 210,000 ish miles, i like the older trucks, i've got my eye on an older square body chevy k10 at the moment.....lol

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20 hours ago, tillylamp said:

thanks for your input guys, much appreciated....the products that have been mentioned seem to be on the right track, after reading a lot more about products and methods it seems like a lot of people are saying/doing...sand blasting it clean, degrease it off, apply rust converter/inhibiter, then epoxy primer and topcoat....sounds like some sort of a plan.....should keep me busy for a while....lol   

What would the cost of galv dipping it be?

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34 minutes ago, Gypsydog94 said:

What would the cost of galv dipping it be?

i have seen people do a galv dip on a chassis with great effect, but having a look on the net i can't find an exact price, it seems it varies from company to company on per kgm2 of steel, one company was $45 kgm2 what ever that works out at? if i was doing a full resto i would look into doing that but at this moment of time i was going to just lift the body off and work with what i can get to, but that is a good shout mate.....  

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