Hard headed pup

[gnasher16 30,063]

The going out of sight thing is surely only going to work with a dog you have a bond with......doubt you have that with a 15 mth old....never used one myself but heard a lot of people praise the electric collars for such situations.

[bird 9,872]

1 hour ago, gnasher16 said:

The going out of sight thing is surely only going to work with a dog you have a bond with......doubt you have that with a 15 mth old....never used one myself but heard a lot of people praise the electric collars for such situations.

thats what i wrote Gnash  ( bond) you spot on mate, 15 month old it going into teen thing . electric collars can be good if used sensible ,  i used do lot of beating as younger bloke, and ive seen them missed used on gundogs , and i seen big lab just fook off from the shoot, the bloke was twat how he used it, i nearly kicked  knackers through his head for him, he told me keep it shut, i said you want to hope the A/E not shut , because thats where you be going next . the keeper  moved me away from him, because he was paid gun , and keeper  didnt want to upset  people who pay his wages , ok but the bloke was twat deff. ok done right , but lot of sighthounds / lurchers, have sensitive temps anyway , the only time i use one if a dog   no good with sheep, ok try then , but as i say from a pup  you sort that out very quick from 9 week-  14 weeks old. 

[Bakerboy 4,714]

On 07/12/2023 at 13:22, tinder128 said:

 

I bought a pup at 14/15 months old green as grass and in my opinion very immature.

Not the best start, good luck with the pup, Im sure you'll work it out

[Luckee legs 464]

Our whippet is a pain in the arse in this style although I've been able to minimise it i wouldn't work him right next to a dangerous location

I've had him from a pup and he is very obedient in a closed area or with no game about. Once he's aware of game on the scene I need to be on his case.

 Ferreting helps as the action is hopefully where you are

As others have said, in low risk scenarios during training. frequently randomly turning and walking away and even hiding from them is surprisingly effective for recall providing your doing it to them before they do it to you.

Good quality treats help, I often use cut up sausages and our village coop sells end of date food cheap so I'll buy cooked meats there when they are sub 1 £.

Lastly if not hunting I often use a DIY  30m paracord line and a harness that he drags , which helps reinforce a stop command and ensures he's not winning when he fancies it

It's a daily chore and he has stop and stay reminders every day. Frankly if I hadn't had lurchers on and off for 45 years and didn't currently have an older dog who's spot on with obedience (unless muntjac are close by) I'd be at my wits end. It's stressful 

Good luck 

[Moll. 1,770]

Found something out with my terrier cross lurcher. Firstly if they've mentally thrown to the terrier you have to change your normal training.

Mine needs his brain rewarded more than anything else. He's highly wired.

I play tug with him, let him get really aggressive with it, rive him all over the place, it stimulates the hard wire in his brain, he will do anything to play it. I save it for big rewards and to keep him wanting it. You need to teach 'leave it' command (with something other than the tug) first though. He is more likely to recall if the reward is something which gives him the mental stimulation he needs...food won't do it.

[comanche 2,956]

19 minutes ago, Moll. said:

Found something out with my terrier cross lurcher. Firstly if they've mentally thrown to the terrier you have to change your normal training.

Mine needs his brain rewarded more than anything else. He's highly wired.

I play tug with him, let him get really aggressive with it, rive him all over the place, it stimulates the hard wire in his brain, he will do anything to play it. I save it for big rewards and to keep him wanting it. You need to teach 'leave it' command (with something other than the tug) first though. He is more likely to recall if the reward is something which gives him the mental stimulation he needs...food won't do it.

A favourite toy , lots of love and cuddles ,tummy tickles and perseverance . Never be afraid of looking like a soft , gay , dick in public . Love your dog and hopefully it'll love you. Teaching it heelwork on and off the lead is a big must.  Too many dogs hear the click of a lead coming off and think they are free to do what they  like!

I've a pup that's  a willful little cow at the moment so it'll be plenty of loving discipline for quite a while before she gets too much free running. One thing that sometimes helps when the dog pxsses you off is to actually tell it to bxgger off, wave it away in fake anger and walk away. Keep telling it to bxgger off . Quite often it'll end up being desperate to be your friend again.

Good luck whatever route you choose.

Edited December 8, 2023 by comanche

[Deerhunter1 771]

E collars seem like an easy fix, but when I’m out hunting I need it to feel like a partnership between me & the dog. I want a dog coming back to me because it wants to, not because it’s scared of getting shocked. I’d start from scratch & treat it like an 8 week old puppy, spend all spring and summer just bonding with the dog & then hopefully by next season you’ll have a strong bond with the dog, and it won’t just be doing what it’s told because it’s scared of the e collar.

[Moll. 1,770]

17 minutes ago, comanche said:

 One thing that sometimes helps when the dog pxsses you off is to actually tell it to bxgger off, wave it away in fake anger and walk away. Keep telling it to bxgger off . Quite often it'll end up being desperate to be your friend again.

Good luck whatever route you choose.

Did that once with a terrier. Didn't need to fake the anger

Every time she tried to come back to me I chased her away until she stood a distance away knowing she'd been chased out of the pack. I then hid behind a Bush watching. When she eventually started to return I walked away with rest of dogs on lead and completely ignored her, she fell into heel and I never had another problem from then on. She went on to become my little Co pilot, went everywhere with me as she was so well behaved.

But..... it doesn't work with all dogs. If there's even a flicker of nerves or fear aggression.

[Whoknows 162]

There’s a world of difference between correcting behaviour in a dog which is going through the teenage phase or has discovered hunting and that you have spent time bonding with and training ….. and one you’ve acquired as an older dog. 
 

All dogs are different. But most teenage saplings are w*nkers at sone point, usually either not listening or chasing stock. The more drive in the dog the more likely and usually more annoying. It’s just one of those things. 
 

Do Interesting things, give the dog sport, make it your mate, have it around you, get in its head. A little tickle from a collar isn’t a big issue either if you think he’s just being ignorant. More of an oi listen than a punishment. But I once had a dog that was always a bit of a tw*t with recall if there was any chance of killing something and basically hunted non stop from when you let him go. He was annoying. But he also did catch a huge amount of stuff, and often I’d be calling the sh*tbag back and he would be ignoring me only to then put up and catch something. 
 

 

 

[comanche 2,956]

On 07/12/2023 at 13:22, tinder128 said:

Afternoon, 

I'm at my wits end here and wondering if anyone has been in a similar situation.

I bought a pup at 14/15 months old green as grass and in my opinion very immature.

I've been in the game long enough to know there's more chancers than genuinely people selling dogs especially early on in the season but the dog was exactly what I wanted and a reasonable price........bedlington x greyhound.

I have been working tirelessly on recall for the last three weeks absolutely perfect on a long line perfect in the garden but give the little shit that tiny bit of trust let him go he just flicks the middle finger ad will not come back to the point I've actually just started walking away.

I've never come across this much of a problem before but I haven't owned anything with bedlington in it. 

Can anyone offer any advice or maby a method I'm overlooking as I'm really running out of patience.

Many thanks 

Another thing is that as you got the dog at 14/15 months you probably inherited a few problems instilled by the previous owner.  So don't  take it personally or assume  your methods are wrong .  Even if you have to persevere with basic training and hold off working it  for a year it's better than  having a dog that's a pain for the next ten years.

[Whoknows 162]

This might also sound dumb. But sometimes dogs like that benefit from just being taken out and worked. 
 

In the sense of finding somewhere fenced or a bit closed in where he can’t do one with a few rabbits and just lamp him or get him out with a couple of steady bushers,  dogs aren’t that dumb that they don’t work out that running about like a tw*t is less interesting than coming back and getting on with stuff, working with you not against you.  

[Aussie Whip 4,096]

I think the dominant pack leader type dogs tend to be less obedient. My whip/stag was the best dog I've owned but she always worked on her terms. If we were about to go home and there were still rabbits in a close warren she would "make me" ferret that warren then would happily get in the car. I tried to overpower her with commands but after 9 years and thousands of rabbits under her belt I just went along with her. She was a pig headed but very thorough bitch and a champion pest control dog in my eyes.

[mC HULL 12,382]

2 hours ago, Whoknows said:

This might also sound dumb. But sometimes dogs like that benefit from just being taken out and worked. 
 

In the sense of finding somewhere fenced or a bit closed in where he can’t do one with a few rabbits and just lamp him or get him out with a couple of steady bushers,  dogs aren’t that dumb that they don’t work out that running about like a tw*t is less interesting than coming back and getting on with stuff, working with you not against you.  

that’s it mate great answer the more you work em the more you bond to the point you don’t even have to shout or call they return don’t they 

[mC HULL 12,382]

the hiding and that may work for pups for a bit but one that’s a facker will just come find ya keep ten foot off and do it over and over again 

it’s already 15 month old a shout press vibrate then zap it soon be back to ya after a few goes you wont zap it again 

[Black neck 15,890]

9 hours ago, Moll. said:

Did that once with a terrier. Didn't need to fake the anger

Every time she tried to come back to me I chased her away until she stood a distance away knowing she'd been chased out of the pack. I then hid behind a Bush watching. When she eventually started to return I walked away with rest of dogs on lead and completely ignored her, she fell into heel and I never had another problem from then on. She went on to become my little Co pilot, went everywhere with me as she was so well behaved.

But..... it doesn't work with all dogs. If there's even a flicker of nerves or fear aggression.

Do u still see ote of millet