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Just now, foxdropper said:

Fuses protect the pugged in product from surge overload .Most house hold appliances are 13 amp ,kettles etc .Amps over the recommended fuse size amount have potential to cause fires .Fuses cut all electric to an appliance .

Years past people to used to put a nail in house hold wire fuses which was the cause of many a house fire .Today’s micro breakers have all but eliminated that .

And that fused switch will do the same. Plugs are rated to 13 amp but products range from 3 to 13 amp

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3 minutes ago, South hams hunter said:

And that fused switch will do the same. Plugs are rated to 13 amp but products range from 3 to 13 amp

Ovens are usually 32 amp supply. I'm guessing this is on two 16 amp supply's 13 amp would be too low.

Cheers Arry

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2 minutes ago, Arry said:

Ovens are usually 32 amp supply. I'm guessing this is on two 16 amp supply's 13 amp would be too low.

Cheers Arry

I know mate, was just on about plugs. Pointless on a topic about ovens really ?

What I have seen in the past is a 32 amp for the oven and then a second for the display/fan/lights but it's not all that common. 

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One of them is for the oven which will be rated at between 2and 3kw(8-13 amps)

The other one is just for the igniter on the hob. (Gas). This will use virtually no amps whatsoever. 
whichever one you uncoupled the oven from turn the switch around so you can see the back. If you have a voltage tester check that you have 230v on the supply terminals. 
if you have turn the switch on and test the load terminals you should have 230v on these with the switch on. 
If you haven’t it’s either the fuse or the switch itself which is faulty. 

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A cooker like an electric shower has to have a direct feed back to your fuse board and a 30 amp fuse, you cannot spur off of anything else or share a circuit as it draws to much current, which is why it has much thicker cable than the rest of the circuits glad you got it sorted anyway ?

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