South hams hunter 8,919 Posted December 9, 2020 Report Share Posted December 9, 2020 Just now, foxdropper said: Fuses protect the pugged in product from surge overload .Most house hold appliances are 13 amp ,kettles etc .Amps over the recommended fuse size amount have potential to cause fires .Fuses cut all electric to an appliance . Years past people to used to put a nail in house hold wire fuses which was the cause of many a house fire .Today’s micro breakers have all but eliminated that . And that fused switch will do the same. Plugs are rated to 13 amp but products range from 3 to 13 amp Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Arry 21,195 Posted December 9, 2020 Report Share Posted December 9, 2020 3 minutes ago, South hams hunter said: And that fused switch will do the same. Plugs are rated to 13 amp but products range from 3 to 13 amp Ovens are usually 32 amp supply. I'm guessing this is on two 16 amp supply's 13 amp would be too low. Cheers Arry 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Squirrel_Basher 17,100 Posted December 9, 2020 Report Share Posted December 9, 2020 Yep .The fuse spur does exactly the same as a fuse in a plug . Quote Link to post Share on other sites
South hams hunter 8,919 Posted December 9, 2020 Report Share Posted December 9, 2020 2 minutes ago, Arry said: Ovens are usually 32 amp supply. I'm guessing this is on two 16 amp supply's 13 amp would be too low. Cheers Arry I know mate, was just on about plugs. Pointless on a topic about ovens really What I have seen in the past is a 32 amp for the oven and then a second for the display/fan/lights but it's not all that common. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
South hams hunter 8,919 Posted December 9, 2020 Report Share Posted December 9, 2020 Second one could be for the hood Quote Link to post Share on other sites
robbo 828 Posted December 9, 2020 Report Share Posted December 9, 2020 One of them is for the oven which will be rated at between 2and 3kw(8-13 amps) The other one is just for the igniter on the hob. (Gas). This will use virtually no amps whatsoever. whichever one you uncoupled the oven from turn the switch around so you can see the back. If you have a voltage tester check that you have 230v on the supply terminals. if you have turn the switch on and test the load terminals you should have 230v on these with the switch on. If you haven’t it’s either the fuse or the switch itself which is faulty. 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
low plains drifter 10,216 Posted December 9, 2020 Report Share Posted December 9, 2020 1 hour ago, South hams hunter said: Second one could be for the hood You mean he's paying for every bugger elses leccy an all ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
South hams hunter 8,919 Posted December 9, 2020 Report Share Posted December 9, 2020 6 minutes ago, low plains drifter said: You mean he's paying for every bugger elses leccy an all ? Yh fam Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PLEDGEY 495 Posted December 9, 2020 Report Share Posted December 9, 2020 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
robbo 828 Posted December 9, 2020 Report Share Posted December 9, 2020 It’s not an electric hob he’s got. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
General lee 979 Posted December 10, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2020 Thanks for the advice everyone had a electrician out this morning turns out it was just a worn out switch so £50 later all back on 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Greyman 27,912 Posted December 10, 2020 Report Share Posted December 10, 2020 A cooker like an electric shower has to have a direct feed back to your fuse board and a 30 amp fuse, you cannot spur off of anything else or share a circuit as it draws to much current, which is why it has much thicker cable than the rest of the circuits glad you got it sorted anyway Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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