hiya guys just wanted to ask for a few tips on how to bring my 6month old lurchers on I've got three

[Yadad 7]

3 minutes ago, Elchapo said:

You related to paulus? 

No your related to me your my son cause I f****d ur mum bye 

[Yadad 7]

2 minutes ago, Yadad said:

Yr yr what ever prove you all wrong in a few months got the help just came on here for a bit of extra but all I got is hassle 

All stuck up each others arses 

[dogmandont 9,833]

20 minutes ago, W. Katchum said:

You live in Kosovo ffs

[Moocher71 4,049]

2 hours ago, Yadad said:

I was just saying what I was going to put my dogs on cause got asked  n you piped up giving sarcastic comments so I'm obviously not gunnar leave it in was only asking for a bit of advise but none of use have gave me any 

Find a long rope and a tree ,the only friends you will ever need .

[low plains drifter 10,559]

1 hour ago, Yadad said:

How you get pics on here now as for been on terrier fourm talking shit there now 900 to you pal pure beasts ahhgg

This reminds me of English wrestling on Saturday circa 1980 odd  

[Daniel cain 45,511]

1 hour ago, Yadad said:

where's the poor cnuts kennel?you living on the streets or something?

[two crows 3,342]

3 hours ago, Yadad said:

Yous can say what you want I no mum and dad are good working lines and still work day and night now dad a 3/8 5/8 bull greyhound

tell you what mate you should pm Fuji off here, he the best dog man and teacher, and he said every body else is c**ts, good luck mate.

[Yadad 7]

19 hours ago, Daniel cain said:

where's the poor cnuts kennel?you living on the streets or something?

Well no obviously not there a house in background thick can't n up top of garden 

[Yadad 7]

19 hours ago, W. Katchum said:

House looks like it’s seen mortar fire

Mortar fire n it's rendering silly can't ahhh clearly not a working man n not gunnar re render a house that gets rented am I 

[Daniel cain 45,511]

18 minutes ago, Yadad said:

Well no obviously not there a house in background thick can't n up top of garden 

looks like some f***ing squat or crackhouse you scruffy cnut

[Daisy the destroyer 20]

Trying to train 3 your just asking for trouble get rid of 2 keep your favourite and concentrate on that one all your gona do trying to train 3 is give your self hard work and aggravation atb

[shaaark 10,788]

On 31/03/2019 at 18:12, Yadad said:

I've got mates that do it so no what I'm on with a bit out with them all time ask for a bit of advise on  here now you get slaughterd  just got lumbered with the other 2 dogs as my brother didn't want them 

So, because you have mates that have dogs that 'smash' badgers, there I've said it, BADGERS, cops, wildlife units, even most grandmothers know that 'pig' means BADGER, when it comes to dogs, wildlife etc, you and your brother thought you'd get 3 lurcher pups to 'smash' BADGERS as well.

Sharp pair of c**ts aren't you?!

[shaaark 10,788]

On 31/03/2019 at 18:36, Daniel cain said:

give your head a shake fella,stop puffing and put down the glass dick....give it a go....think before you speak.....have a read of thishttps://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.huntingact.org/&ved=2ahUKEwjLsYKd9azhAhUkQRUIHbK4AuQQFjAKegQIChAB&usg=AOvVaw1sgoBtRqjQPK68Ly6ugoPK

D c, I don't think putting this link up will be of any use to 'boxofrogs' (dogfox). There are pretty difficult words in there for him to understand, like exemption, unworkable, culmination and a few other big words. 

Good on you for trying to educate him though, nice gesture. Peace brother ✌

[RTurlough 160]

On 30/03/2019 at 02:41, Yadad said:

Hiya guys just wanted a few tips on how to bring my 6 month old lurchers on 

 

Hey Yadad, there are all different ways to go about it but I will give you my version.

 

1).  Prey drive.

Rags attached to string on the end of a good pole, make them compete and change the rags.  Few rabbit skins if you can get them to get them used to fur, but honestly there is no real need to do this. Sometimes an auld teddy bear, an old slipper.  This is great if you are working during the week or in winter and keep your sessions down to 5mins of chasing. Pups should be fairly wrecked after this and if doing it on your garden pick a bit of the garden you don't like the look off as they will tear it to pieces.

Prey drive and bite drive are the most important things in my book.  You can have the best trained lurcher in the world but if it doesnt have these two things they will let you down in the future or if you forget to push prey and bite drive through play you may have to go back to this when things go wrong.  Speaking from experience here.

 

2).  Recall.

Dog comes slip him a tiny cube of chopped bacon.  keep doing it around the garden because once you turn off that lamp in the dark you don't want a dog standing 5 ft from you but coming straight in once you whisper a name until it knows to return once the lamp is off.

 

3).  Jump training.

Use the jig pole I said in No. 1 above.  Stand near a small fence and get the dogs to chase the lure then lift it over the fence, if they want it they are going to have to jump the fence.  Don't ever try and force a jump without the lure or some kind of reward.  If on a walk and you negotiate a few obstacles, the walk itself is a reward, so they will quickly learn to negotiate a good few different types of obstacles as you are on a dander.  Always be wary young pups going over fences and if a dog gets caught up secure his head first before rushing in to help him.  I know a man who got a chuck bitten off his cheek trying to free is lurcher's toe, had to get a skin graft from his arse to heal the hole!

 

4).  Ferrets.

Break to ferrets.  Never ever ever let a lurcher kill a ferret.  You may laugh at that, but I know lots of lads who have and the dogs could never be worked round ferrets, they couldn't even be housed near ferrets without at some time trying to get out to kill them.

 

5).  Retrieve.

NEVER EVER more than 3 retrieves for a pup.  Never end the session on a retrieve or the dog will associate that with being put back in the pen.  Don't chase the dog if it refuses to retrieve.  It is not a race, just stand up, turn away and giving the dog a bit of gentle persuasion to come back in.  Once you keep doing this it will enjoy getting out of the oen for a few retrieves and throw a fence in to bring it all together.

 

6).  Road walking.

Road walking is time consuming and definitely for a pup gets the pads ready before the young nettles in Spring.  If your dog has a lot of pen time due to work and you hit Spring without some degree of road walking prepared for a shitty hunt as all your dog can think of is burning pads or trying to get teasles out of his fur.  So a bit of road work and walks in lanes will get your dogs used to things getting caught up in the fur and not get distracted by being inexperienced.

 

7).  Let Pups be Pups.

You will be dying to get these pups out on the lamp or a hunt but if you can will yourself to hold these dogs back until 1 1/2yrs old you will have potentially brilliant lurchers.  Remember that every time your lurcher sees game he must win.  Jig pole they win near every time, eventually.  You want your dogs running with 100% conviction that they are confident they will catch what you release them on.  Preparation is the key because when they are 1 1/2 yrs old they are not going to get one course or a rabbit but probably run after run after run in a very short period of time.  Even 3 runs in an hour for a lurcher pup at a year old is hard work and if it misses 3 rabbits it will get a sickener of a lifetime and potentially jack.  I am really speaking from experience here having run a young dog this season and on a hunt with my brother watched the dog just believe he wasn't fast enough.  It totally broke my heart and this dog was 10months old.  Having to do alot of remediation work now in lying the dog up and going back to the jig pole and lures.  I was so busy planning his training and putting ferreted rabbits in front of him I forgot to let him mature and be a pup so I am spending the nect 8 months just playing with him.  Tug of war, jumping, lure work and making him believe he is faster than lightening itself.

 

8).  Injury prevention.

The first few seconds when the pups are released from the pens can destroy a lurcher and ruin everything you have done in one split second.  That first turn on the lawn can break legs, rip leg tendons, break toes, split webbing between toes so if you can keep everything calm when opening the pens.  Easier said than done but slipping pups onto the leads to keep them static until you walk them a few hundred metres to get there legs stretched before letting them off can help keep your pups injury free.

 

Never leave bones in between 3 pups.  This will spell disaster and can escalate into all out ward with two dogs vs 1 if one of your pups goes onto its belly, potentially getting dis-embowelled.

 

Grooming them with a brush is a great way of being a perfectionist with your dogs and as you run your hands over them each day will find areas tight, injured and is part of a daily inspection.  Standing watching your dogs walk in the pen while sipping a cup of tea is one of the best ways to inspect dogs.  You will see tired pups not willing to jump up against the pen on the two back legs, small strains which are barely noticeable as you see a pup putting less weight on one leg than another or pacing with a one-sided gait.

 

9).  The poo stare.

Every time you walk into the pens have a look at their poo.  It will become second nature and a great way to pick up on worms but even when you don't see worms and administer Panacur or drontal you will be amazed at the worms which appear.

 

10).  Ear cleaning.

Thornit powder is the best stuff and cheap as chips.  Just stick a bit on the end of your finger and rub it round the inside of the dogs ear canal.  An auld cloth and warm water for doing the rest of the ears.  

 

So there are my ten tips.  The only real important point is if you are transporting PUPS around in the van or car to places for exercise don't let them jump out of the boot until a year old.  Lift them out in your arms.  Lads will laugh at this but the pups haven't properly formed their shin bones and when they jump out of the boot the exert huge pressure on the forelegs, shins and feet.  It is all about keeping the dogs injury free and also if you haven't got jags yet as some pups slip the net definitely get them done.  It is law but besides that it means you won't lose your whole kennel block to a bout of Parvo.

Enjoy your dogs and don't ever listen to anyone who says that your dog should be doing "such and such" as his did by 10 months old.  These are your dogs.  You know their strengths and weaknesses, you know what makes them tick and yes don't be worried about working all 3, if you are lucky one of them will be the dog of a lifetime.  I look forward to seeing you get some photos up of your three pups sometime and wish you all the best in bringing this dogs on.  Inch by inch, metre by metre and mile by mile.  Take it really slowly and don't expect them to be hunting until at least a year and a half.  Yes they will catch rabbits by 10 months old but you want brilliant dogs patience is the key.

[Black neck 15,992]

10 minutes ago, RTurlough said:

Hey Yadad, there are all different ways to go about it but I will give you my version.

 

1).  Prey drive.

Rags attached to string on the end of a good pole, make them compete and change the rags.  Few rabbit skins if you can get them to get them used to fur, but honestly there is no real need to do this. Sometimes an auld teddy bear, an old slipper.  This is great if you are working during the week or in winter and keep your sessions down to 5mins of chasing. Pups should be fairly wrecked after this and if doing it on your garden pick a bit of the garden you don't like the look off as they will tear it to pieces.

Prey drive and bite drive are the most important things in my book.  You can have the best trained lurcher in the world but if it doesnt have these two things they will let you down in the future or if you forget to push prey and bite drive through play you may have to go back to this when things go wrong.  Speaking from experience here.

 

2).  Recall.

Dog comes slip him a tiny cube of chopped bacon.  keep doing it around the garden because once you turn off that lamp in the dark you don't want a dog standing 5 ft from you but coming straight in once you whisper a name until it knows to return once the lamp is off.

 

3).  Jump training.

Use the jig pole I said in No. 1 above.  Stand near a small fence and get the dogs to chase the lure then lift it over the fence, if they want it they are going to have to jump the fence.  Don't ever try and force a jump without the lure or some kind of reward.  If on a walk and you negotiate a few obstacles, the walk itself is a reward, so they will quickly learn to negotiate a good few different types of obstacles as you are on a dander.  Always be wary young pups going over fences and if a dog gets caught up secure his head first before rushing in to help him.  I know a man who got a chuck bitten off his cheek trying to free is lurcher's toe, had to get a skin graft from his arse to heal the hole!

 

4).  Ferrets.

Break to ferrets.  Never ever ever let a lurcher kill a ferret.  You may laugh at that, but I know lots of lads who have and the dogs could never be worked round ferrets, they couldn't even be housed near ferrets without at some time trying to get out to kill them.

 

5).  Retrieve.

NEVER EVER more than 3 retrieves for a pup.  Never end the session on a retrieve or the dog will associate that with being put back in the pen.  Don't chase the dog if it refuses to retrieve.  It is not a race, just stand up, turn away and giving the dog a bit of gentle persuasion to come back in.  Once you keep doing this it will enjoy getting out of the oen for a few retrieves and throw a fence in to bring it all together.

 

6).  Road walking.

Road walking is time consuming and definitely for a pup gets the pads ready before the young nettles in Spring.  If your dog has a lot of pen time due to work and you hit Spring without some degree of road walking prepared for a shitty hunt as all your dog can think of is burning pads or trying to get teasles out of his fur.  So a bit of road work and walks in lanes will get your dogs used to things getting caught up in the fur and not get distracted by being inexperienced.

 

7).  Let Pups be Pups.

You will be dying to get these pups out on the lamp or a hunt but if you can will yourself to hold these dogs back until 1 1/2yrs old you will have potentially brilliant lurchers.  Remember that every time your lurcher sees game he must win.  Jig pole they win near every time, eventually.  You want your dogs running with 100% conviction that they are confident they will catch what you release them on.  Preparation is the key because when they are 1 1/2 yrs old they are not going to get one course or a rabbit but probably run after run after run in a very short period of time.  Even 3 runs in an hour for a lurcher pup at a year old is hard work and if it misses 3 rabbits it will get a sickener of a lifetime and potentially jack.  I am really speaking from experience here having run a young dog this season and on a hunt with my brother watched the dog just believe he wasn't fast enough.  It totally broke my heart and this dog was 10months old.  Having to do alot of remediation work now in lying the dog up and going back to the jig pole and lures.  I was so busy planning his training and putting ferreted rabbits in front of him I forgot to let him mature and be a pup so I am spending the nect 8 months just playing with him.  Tug of war, jumping, lure work and making him believe he is faster than lightening itself.

 

8).  Injury prevention.

The first few seconds when the pups are released from the pens can destroy a lurcher and ruin everything you have done in one split second.  That first turn on the lawn can break legs, rip leg tendons, break toes, split webbing between toes so if you can keep everything calm when opening the pens.  Easier said than done but slipping pups onto the leads to keep them static until you walk them a few hundred metres to get there legs stretched before letting them off can help keep your pups injury free.

 

Never leave bones in between 3 pups.  This will spell disaster and can escalate into all out ward with two dogs vs 1 if one of your pups goes onto its belly, potentially getting dis-embowelled.

 

Grooming them with a brush is a great way of being a perfectionist with your dogs and as you run your hands over them each day will find areas tight, injured and is part of a daily inspection.  Standing watching your dogs walk in the pen while sipping a cup of tea is one of the best ways to inspect dogs.  You will see tired pups not willing to jump up against the pen on the two back legs, small strains which are barely noticeable as you see a pup putting less weight on one leg than another or pacing with a one-sided gait.

 

9).  The poo stare.

Every time you walk into the pens have a look at their poo.  It will become second nature and a great way to pick up on worms but even when you don't see worms and administer Panacur or drontal you will be amazed at the worms which appear.

 

10).  Ear cleaning.

Thornit powder is the best stuff and cheap as chips.  Just stick a bit on the end of your finger and rub it round the inside of the dogs ear canal.  An auld cloth and warm water for doing the rest of the ears.  

 

So there are my ten tips.  The only real important point is if you are transporting PUPS around in the van or car to places for exercise don't let them jump out of the boot until a year old.  Lift them out in your arms.  Lads will laugh at this but the pups haven't properly formed their shin bones and when they jump out of the boot the exert huge pressure on the forelegs, shins and feet.  It is all about keeping the dogs injury free and also if you haven't got jags yet as some pups slip the net definitely get them done.  It is law but besides that it means you won't lose your whole kennel block to a bout of Parvo.

Enjoy your dogs and don't ever listen to anyone who says that your dog should be doing "such and such" as his did by 10 months old.  These are your dogs.  You know their strengths and weaknesses, you know what makes them tick and yes don't be worried about working all 3, if you are lucky one of them will be the dog of a lifetime.  I look forward to seeing you get some photos up of your three pups sometime and wish you all the best in bringing this dogs on.  Inch by inch, metre by metre and mile by mile.  Take it really slowly and don't expect them to be hunting until at least a year and a half.  Yes they will catch rabbits by 10 months old but you want brilliant dogs patience is the key.

Bit vague that