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Weihrauch HW80K


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Yes it will need to be sized

but only do this once the stock is done

if you want the stock to look like Marks hw77

once the stock is done leave it for a few days then wire wool it over to take the shine off

this will give it a Matt Finnish

then use bee,s wax to give it a little shine

PAD

once the stock is done size the plate to the stock DO NOT SIZE TO THE OLD PAD

as it will be a different size as you will have sanded the stock down

once you have done this you will need a bench grinder to shave it down to size

place the back plate onto the stock and draw a line round it

you may have to re,drill screw holes in the plate and stock to fit

atvbjimmy:thumbs::thumbs::thumbs:

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12 hours ago, bigmac 97kt said:

Yes it will need to be sized

but only do this once the stock is done

if you want the stock to look like Marks hw77

once the stock is done leave it for a few days then wire wool it over to take the shine off

this will give it a Matt Finnish

then use bee,s wax to give it a little shine

PAD

once the stock is done size the plate to the stock DO NOT SIZE TO THE OLD PAD

as it will be a different size as you will have sanded the stock down

once you have done this you will need a bench grinder to shave it down to size

place the back plate onto the stock and draw a line round it

you may have to re,drill screw holes in the plate and stock to fit

atvbjimmy:thumbs::thumbs::thumbs:

P250112_14.21.jpg

P250112_14.31_[01].jpg

P250112_14.18.jpg

P250112_14.40.jpg

P250112_14.16.jpg

P250112_14.50.jpg

Top man 

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When you strip the stock back

and sand it it may look to light if it dose use a walnut stain

as in one of the pics on page 1

put it into a tub just a little and ad some water to thin it out

build the coats up ,

another trick is spit on your fingers and rub over the stock (when the stock is dry)

this will show you what the stock is going to look like when the oil is on and dry

so if its not the way you want it you can add some more coats

put the stain on with a lint free cloth as well

if you cant get some cloths use an old well washed t,shirt

fold the cloths up into a tight little square to use on the stain and oil

when applying the stain and oil run the cloth up and back down the same way you went

like oil on oil off the down ward motion will remove any excess oil  that was put on by the up wards stroke

if that makes sense lol

atvbjimmy:thumbs::thumbs::thumbs:

ps second pic is with the stain on ready for oil

 

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5 hours ago, bigmac 97kt said:

When you strip the stock back

and sand it it may look to light if it dose use a walnut stain

as in one of the pics on page 1

put it into a tub just a little and ad some water to thin it out

build the coats up ,

another trick is spit on your fingers and rub over the stock (when the stock is dry)

this will show you what the stock is going to look like when the oil is on and dry

so if its not the way you want it you can add some more coats

put the stain on with a lint free cloth as well

if you cant get some cloths use an old well washed t,shirt

fold the cloths up into a tight little square to use on the stain and oil

when applying the stain and oil run the cloth up and back down the same way you went

like oil on oil off the down ward motion will remove any excess oil  that was put on by the up wards stroke

if that makes sense lol

atvbjimmy:thumbs::thumbs::thumbs:

ps second pic is with the stain on ready for oil

 

P060211_09.42_[01].jpg

P080211_12.49.jpg

How do you come across the chequering, been told that’s quite tricky but not too sure though.....another question if you don’t mind me asking. A friends also got a hw80 he had it apart last week and their seemed to be no pre-load with spring where I’ve seen some have maybe upto a inch pre-load... thanks again for your time and advice.... ATB LurcherLad 

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Use a hard tooth brush or better a brass wire brush

on the chequering and all ways go with the pattern do not go against  it

put plenty of nitro in it or paint stripper in first ,

as for your mates it should have a little pre load its ether been changed

or the spring has been cut .

but if its shooting ok and not twanging

then it should be ok

atvbjimmy:thumbs::thumbs::thumbs:

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42 minutes ago, bigmac 97kt said:

Use a hard tooth brush or better a brass wire brush

on the chequering and all ways go with the pattern do not go against  it

put plenty of nitro in it or paint stripper in first ,

as for your mates it should have a little pre load its ether been changed

or the spring has been cut .

but if its shooting ok and not twanging

then it should be ok

atvbjimmy:thumbs::thumbs::thumbs:

Yes as far as I remember when I had the internals of mine done, I had abit of preload, so would this affect the power of the gun(surely) would a new spring solve his problem thanks for your knowledge 

ATB LURCHERLAD 

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2 hours ago, LurcherLad1998 said:

Yes as far as I remember when I had the internals of mine done, I had abit of preload, so would this affect the power of the gun(surely) would a new spring solve his problem thanks for your knowledge 

ATB LURCHERLAD 

Yes and yes lol

a new spring would sort it but only if it needs one

what power is it sitting at

and is the spring loose when all put back together can you hear it move when you tip the rifle back and fourth

not when cocked mind .

or could one or two washers sort it

atvbjimmy:thumbs::thumbs:

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4 hours ago, LurcherLad1998 said:

How do you come across the chequering, been told that’s quite tricky but not too sure though.....another question if you don’t mind me asking. A friends also got a hw80 he had it apart last week and their seemed to be no pre-load with spring where I’ve seen some have maybe upto a inch pre-load... thanks again for your time and advice.... ATB LurcherLad 

If your stripping the stock for a refurb,  the best way to strip the old finish off the checkering is to go over it with a blow torch / moving quickly so you don't burn the timber & a brass wire brush, warm it over the checkering then brush it out in the direction , works at treat

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8 hours ago, LurcherLad1998 said:

Yes will need doing too 

Now the work begins lol

you will need to strip all the action and take out all the internals

you will need a bench grinder with a wire wheel on it to remove all the old blueing

 

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Once you have stripped it all back

get a old tub and put the blueing into a tub

then heat the parts that need blueing up with a paint stripper gun you do not want it hot just enough

so you can handle it

use them throw away gloves as the oil in your hand will affect the blueing

use the 0000 wire wool to apply the blueing and do it fast up and down the same as the stock

you then leave it for 30 seconds then run it under water use an old tea towel to dry it off

if its not the way you want it then just repeat the process

if you can try and get the blueing in the pics its the best iv used but you can only get it off the net

anothertip is get some old tubs with lids and place all your bits in them

and mark what is in them this way you do not loose them ,

once you have taken all the blueing off use the de,greaser to clean the action before you start blueing

atvbjimmy:thumbs::thumbs::thumbs:

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Once it has dried leave it for an hour and run some gun oil over the action 

and the jobs a good un lol

reading all of this makes it look like a hard job BUT ITS NOT

just remember TAKE YOUR TIME

RUSH IT YOU FECK IT

and when you do the stock and you think its ready for the stain

do as my good friend VIZ all ways say,s

DO IT AGAIN

it works lol smoothing it out is the hardest part

just enjoy the process and relax and she will be right

i want pics mind and a thread of how your doing

that way i can see and help you along

atvbjimmy:thumbs::thumbs::thumbs:

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