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After a bit of advice from you boys . I’ve got a 2013,Hilux HL2 D4D . The DPF system light has started flashing and the malfunction indicator lamp has come on . It is driving and sounds fine , will I be all right to drive it until Monday or Tuesday when I can get it sorted, also is it much of a job ? Advice much appreciated. 

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3 hours ago, dogmandont said:

Get the dpf gutted and get it mapped out, done it on the family car and never had a problem since.

Rang a mate who’s handy on motors , he said take it for a good thrashing on the motorway for twenty minuets and it might clear it . If it doesn’t he will sort it Monday. Cheers for the reply . I’ll askhim about gutting it and getting it mapped out . ATB

 

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2 minutes ago, shovel leaner said:

Rang a mate who’s handy on motors , he said take it for a good thrashing on the motorway for twenty minuets and it might clear it . If it doesn’t he will sort it Monday. Cheers for the reply . I’ll askhim about gutting it and getting it mapped out . ATB

 

Let me know how you get on. ?.

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3 hours ago, shovel leaner said:

Rang a mate who’s handy on motors , he said take it for a good thrashing on the motorway for twenty minuets and it might clear it . If it doesn’t he will sort it Monday. Cheers for the reply . I’ll askhim about gutting it and getting it mapped out . ATB

 

thrashing is not what it needs, DPF regen is not like the old "blowing the shit out" runs, DPF needs getting up to full temp and then being driven steady to allow the process to complete, if that does not happen it sticks the mil on and you end up having a forced regen done, pain in the arse that the bloody things are if it`s driven correctly it can (and should) last for 100k before replacement is needed, trouble with them is too many farts buy them and toodle along trying to get max fuel economy, might save £2 on diesel a week, end up spending hundreds on gutting them with a remap or the extra oil changes needed from forced regens

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My problem is lots of short journeys and cheap fuel . I be been told to put shell v power every third fill up cos it’s got additives in it that help stop this kind of thing happening. I am probably guilty of tootling along , I guess at 53 I possibly fall in the fart catagory . I probably do six trips of a mile a day , the engine doesn’t even get warm . 

Edited by shovel leaner
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14 hours ago, neil82 said:

thrashing is not what it needs, DPF regen is not like the old "blowing the shit out" runs, DPF needs getting up to full temp and then being driven steady to allow the process to complete, if that does not happen it sticks the mil on and you end up having a forced regen done, pain in the arse that the bloody things are if it`s driven correctly it can (and should) last for 100k before replacement is needed, trouble with them is too many farts buy them and toodle along trying to get max fuel economy, might save £2 on diesel a week, end up spending hundreds on gutting them with a remap or the extra oil changes needed from forced regens

But that’s the thing Neil when you pay good money for a car you should be able to drive it how you like. I think in shovel learners cause if he’s doing lots of small trips gutting and remap is the way forward. 

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2 hours ago, forest of dean redneck said:

I didn’t think you could take the dpf out thought it was a mot requirement to have one now? 

The dpf is not removed just the inside taken out and the ecu remapped. Mine has been through mot twice since I done mine.

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58 minutes ago, dogmandont said:

The dpf is not removed just the inside taken out and the ecu remapped. Mine has been through mot twice since I done mine.

Ah I’m with you , bit like cutting down the exhaust baffles in the old 2 stroke bikes we had as a teen , you left a length inside for the copper to stick his finger along ??

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24 minutes ago, forest of dean redneck said:

Ah I’m with you , bit like cutting down the exhaust baffles in the old 2 stroke bikes we had as a teen , you left a length inside for the copper to stick his finger along ??

Yip pretty much the same thing. Lol.

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I took it to a garage and they put it on their diagnostics and we took it out to do a regeneration. It has to get up to 600 degrees and you watch the reading go down , in my case 300 to zero. They also recommend an oil change . So I’m £120 lighter . But it’s all sorted now . I asked about gutting the filter and a re map . They don’t recommend it as if they suspect it’s been done it’s an MOT fail . It does go against the grain to think that a piece of kit designed to cut emissions doesn’t benefit from careful slow driving and short journeys . Thanks all for your advice ?

Edited by shovel leaner
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Part of an MOT is to inspect for tampering of the dpf so if you doubt a tester is sympathetic be careful how you go about gutting!

If you do alot of tootling buy a good dpf cleaner and add to the fuel occasional and treat the vehicle to the posh fuel regular. Oh and I mean a tank full, not a tenners worth!

If you're going to get a remap like I did, get the egr deleted too!

 

I will be returning to petrol as soon as I can!!

Edited by Underdog
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13 hours ago, Underdog said:

Part of an MOT is to inspect for tampering of the dpf so if you doubt a tester is sympathetic be careful how you go about gutting!

If you do alot of tootling buy a good dpf cleaner and add to the fuel occasional and treat the vehicle to the posh fuel regular. Oh and I mean a tank full, not a tenners worth!

If you're going to get a remap like I did, get the egr deleted too!

 

I will be returning to petrol as soon as I can!!

The small jap petrol engines with turbo,s give big performance but I feel it's the internal combustion engine that's at risk, regardless of fuel type, many big car makers are saying they will stop producing all but electric motors within a few years, Volvo have said 2019 will see the last internal combustion engine from them, I feel if you want to carry on using oil based fuel then a classic 40 year old motor may be your only option ?

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