Questions On A Few Different Topics That Are Important

[mr practice 27]

hi there

 

1..BARRELS if you have a fixed barrel on say a 177. wehrauch could you if you can get just barrels get hold of a 22. and put that on to the 177.not swopping every 2 mins keeping it for quite a while before say changing back or is there more reasons you cant do it being the air hole opposite the breech is it a different size between 177. and 22. or is there different problems ?

 

2..TUNING inside the air cylinder i got told you have to be verry carefull in there it gets polished and smoothed to cause less friction using a verry smooth high grade wet n dry then a metal polishing paste to make it really smooth but how do you know when enough is enough and the piston why polish the piston if it never touches the air cylinder the piston seal does in airgun tuning kits you get a top hat and spring guide and power washers made of special plastic better than metal as its lighter and you use moly drysulphide and moly greases question though would it be better if the piston was lighter to travel down the chamber at way faster rates ?

 

3..AMMO heavy pellet lighter pellet normal roundnose pointed flathead hollow-point at distances from 10 to max 40 yards shooting rabbit squirell crows rats pidgeon humane kills but maximum distruction to the quarry 177. and 22. whats the best ammo. the 177. and the 22. debate has allways been on the table for tons of years as to what one is better i say they are both brilliant ?

 

4..TIPS besides keeping your gun or guns well maintained is there any other ideas tips on what to do and what not do with the gun shooting scopes and allsorts of things really scope mounts is it better to have the 2 piece mounts or a 1 piece mount are good seperate lens covers better than the elastic slap on caps as i call them any other tips you have to offer ?

 

now guys im no engineer or anything like that just asking some questions and tips also speaking about guns i also mean sub 12ftlbs for questions above

it would be nice if we had a bit more power say around 15ft to 18ftlbs without f.a.c. i seen a lot of the 30ftlbs and above way above and it seems to me ok it has the power but the accurcy is crap seen a lot of youtube vids stateside and have freinds on xbox live that say the power is there but its a accurecy issue i dont know never tried one thats over 12 but anyway guys dont have a go like i said im no engineer or anything like that just asking on tips and tricks just likes to find out things cheers guys as usual for any replys all the best happy hunting.

 

 

dave leeds

 

[shaaark 10,704]

Some good basic questions there. Looking forward to the lad's replies to this myself.

Plenty of guys on here that'll be able to answer these questions very eruditely

[gurtwurz 792]

you cant just change barrels mate (well, theoretically you can, but) because the different calibers require different strength springs. for example if you swapped from .22 to .177 youd have a very slow flying pellet with a very loopy trajectory because .22 doesnt need as much power behind it as .177 does. conversely, if you went from a .177 to .22 youd be over the limit. this is assuming that you mean springers, cos PCP's require new pellet probes, magazines etc for each caliber, along with an engineering degree to fit them all...

 

as to cylinders, whilst the piston doesnt strictly touch the cylinder it is in contact albeit with a fine layer of moly seperating the two so it benefits from a polish simply because itll run more efficiently that way, with less drag. you can lighten the piston by drilling it, or turning it on a lathe but thats going down the complex tuning route and probably best left alone unless youve got that degree...

 

personally, i use dome headed pellets that fly flattest and most accurately in the rifle. youll have to test a few types to find out which one thatll be though cos every guns slightly different and usually like different pellets.

 

hope this helps, wurz

[bigmac 97kt 13,778]

you cant just change barrels mate (well, theoretically you can, but) because the different calibers require different strength springs. for example if you swapped from .22 to .177 youd have a very slow flying pellet with a very loopy trajectory because .22 doesnt need as much power behind it as .177 does. conversely, if you went from a .177 to .22 youd be over the limit. this is assuming that you mean springers, cos PCP's require new pellet probes, magazines etc for each caliber, along with an engineering degree to fit them all...

 

as to cylinders, whilst the piston doesnt strictly touch the cylinder it is in contact albeit with a fine layer of moly seperating the two so it benefits from a polish simply because itll run more efficiently that way, with less drag. you can lighten the piston by drilling it, or turning it on a lathe but thats going down the complex tuning route and probably best left alone unless youve got that degree...

 

personally, i use dome headed pellets that fly flattest and most accurately in the rifle. youll have to test a few types to find out which one thatll be though cos every guns slightly different and usually like different pellets.

 

hope this helps, wurz

Could not have put it better my self Wurz

 

and as for fac rifles in air yes you do get accuracy problems but a lot of lads get round this by using a heavy pellet by this i mean a lot heavier than you would use in a sub 12 rifle

 

atvbjimmy :thumbs:

[j j m 6,534]

well said

[The one 8,463]

Nice reply to his questions mate

[pianoman 3,587]

On your question of MOUNTS- SINGLE, ONE PIECE. OR DOUBLE, 2-PIECE??

 

I use two-piece, double mounts every time. Always.

 

Why?

Because using two seperate mounts, means you can easily adjust your scope for the absolute optimum eye relief possible and the best possible balance of the scope's weight distribution over the rifle's centre of gravity by using mounts that can vary their contact position on the scope rails. And they impart a minimal amount of weight on the rifle.

 

I use these on all my rifles and even on my recoiling FAC HW80 .22, I have yet to find anything of scope-cant or creep if the mounts are top quality Sportsmatch. Anchor the rear into one of the three arrester-stud holes that will offer the best eye relief and rearward balance position of the scope on the rifle action. Then fit the forward one for best forward balance and scope position over the rifle's centre of gravity. You can make the rifle seem to "feel" almost weightless if you get it perfectly right.

 

With single or one-piece mounts, you are pretty well stuck with a minimal amount of eye-relief adjustment between the two fixed mounts and the three anchor holes in the action. And these mounts are a wee bit heavier, due to the single scope-rail clamp.

 

Some people will swear by single-piece mounts but, after trying and using both over many years, I know which ones I prefer.

 

Best wishes.

Simon

[mark williams 7,550]

Here`s a classic rifle (FWB 127) being fitted with a classic scope ( Tasco 4x40 w/a).

 

As Simon ( Pianoman) says, using Sports Match, two piece mounts gives optimum results.

The rear mount is sighted above the third anchor hole and stud inserted.

The photos show the gun being correctly fitted with the 40 yr old scope. All or any scope cant is eradicated by use of the rifle level and plumb line.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Good luck .

 

atb Mark

 

 

[gurtwurz 792]

On your question of MOUNTS- SINGLE, ONE PIECE. OR DOUBLE, 2-PIECE??

 

I use two-piece, double mounts every time. Always.

 

Why?

Because using two seperate mounts, means you can easily adjust your scope for the absolute optimum eye relief possible and the best possible balance of the scope's weight distribution over the rifle's centre of gravity by using mounts that can vary their contact position on the scope rails. And they impart a minimal amount of weight on the rifle.

 

I use these on all my rifles and even on my recoiling FAC HW80 .22, I have yet to find anything of scope-cant or creep if the mounts are top quality Sportsmatch. Anchor the rear into one of the three arrester-stud holes that will offer the best eye relief and rearward balance position of the scope on the rifle action. Then fit the forward one for best forward balance and scope position over the rifle's centre of gravity. You can make the rifle seem to "feel" almost weightless if you get it perfectly right.

 

With single or one-piece mounts, you are pretty well stuck with a minimal amount of eye-relief adjustment between the two fixed mounts and the three anchor holes in the action. And these mounts are a wee bit heavier, due to the single scope-rail clamp.

 

Some people will swear by single-piece mounts but, after trying and using both over many years, I know which ones I prefer.

 

Best wishes.

Simon

 

 

probably the only thing we dont agree on simon mate... i use a single mount on a springer but if im honest the main reason is that it just feels more solid than two piecers, and possibly cos i remember john darling swearing by them back in the day lol

[secretagentmole 1,701]

 

On your question of MOUNTS- SINGLE, ONE PIECE. OR DOUBLE, 2-PIECE??

 

I use two-piece, double mounts every time. Always.

 

Why?

Because using two seperate mounts, means you can easily adjust your scope for the absolute optimum eye relief possible and the best possible balance of the scope's weight distribution over the rifle's centre of gravity by using mounts that can vary their contact position on the scope rails. And they impart a minimal amount of weight on the rifle.

 

I use these on all my rifles and even on my recoiling FAC HW80 .22, I have yet to find anything of scope-cant or creep if the mounts are top quality Sportsmatch. Anchor the rear into one of the three arrester-stud holes that will offer the best eye relief and rearward balance position of the scope on the rifle action. Then fit the forward one for best forward balance and scope position over the rifle's centre of gravity. You can make the rifle seem to "feel" almost weightless if you get it perfectly right.

 

With single or one-piece mounts, you are pretty well stuck with a minimal amount of eye-relief adjustment between the two fixed mounts and the three anchor holes in the action. And these mounts are a wee bit heavier, due to the single scope-rail clamp.

 

Some people will swear by single-piece mounts but, after trying and using both over many years, I know which ones I prefer.

 

Best wishes.

Simon

 

 

probably the only thing we dont agree on simon mate... i use a single mount on a springer but if im honest the main reason is that it just feels more solid than two piecers, and possibly cos i remember john darling swearing by them back in the day lol

 

 

That was back in the day, not today. Engineering has come on a bit since then!

Always used 2 piece mounts. never had a problem, until I put all the odd bits that were floating around into one tub and then realised I had mixed up 3 different makes of mount!

[gurtwurz 792]

yeah i know but old habits and all that... plus i was too tight to buy new mounts since ive used the same scope on all my guns for the past four years or so, so id just swap the scope/mounts combo from one gun to the other lol

 

funnily enough i use 2 piecers on the 110 nowadays, but that cos i had to get new ones to fit on the weaver rail and thats what was in the gun shop at the time...

[secretagentmole 1,701]

With a Weaver rail a 2 piece is as good as a one piece!

[Jonjon79 13,358]

I do like 1pc mounts - the dampa mount on my 97 just helps to give me a little extra reassurance that my scope will fare the recoil well

 

On PCPs and tamer springers, I'm sure that any good quality mounts are fine.

[Rez 4,957]

2 piece for me. only really cos I can go super low.

[tomburras 2,729]

2 pice for me too, so I can move them to fit the mounts for nv torch and nv screen mount.