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Gordon Mason


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It's a hard one to know when to let go, after a few run ins with the powers that be and a bad accident I'm seriously considering knocking it on the head myself. The trouble with terrier work is it's f

Gordon is a very good mate of mine. Dig with him every week, has helped me out with dogs and knowledge. Great kennel full of workers and good at their job. Also know he don't sell pups for sure. Some

IMO it's all horse shit, everyone has a theory, not many if any put them into practice. My own two pence worth, follow a known line of producers and always have one eye on what everyone else is doin

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lol you are getting predictable .How about you just outline the basics for me .Honestly im interested .My own have been written on here numerous times mate ,maybe before you joined so ive nothing to hide .

1. Remember that the animals you select for breeding today will have an impact on the breed for many years to come. Keep that thought firmly in mind when you choose breeding stock.

 

2. You can choose only two individuals per generation. Choose only the best, because you will have to wait for another generation to improve what you start with. Breed only if you expect the progeny to be better than both parents.

 

3. You cannot expect statistical predictions to hold true in a small number of animals (as in one litter of puppies). Statistics only apply to large populations.

 

4. A pedigree is a tool to help you learn the good and bad attributes that your dog is likely to exhibit or reproduce. A pedigree is only as good as the dog it represents.

 

5. Breed for a total dog, not just one or two characteristics. Don't follow fads in your breed, because they are usually meant to emphasize one or two features of the dog at the expense of the soundness and function of the whole.

 

6. Quality does not mean quantity. Quality is produced by careful study, having a good mental picture of what you are trying to achieve, having patience to wait until the right breeding stock is available and to evaluate what you have already produced, and above all, having a breeding plan that is at least three generations ahead of the breeding you do today.

 

7. Remember that skeletal defects are the most difficult to change.

 

8. Don't bother with a good dog that cannot produce well. Enjoy him (or her) for the beauty that he represents but don't use him in a breeding program.

 

9. Use out-crosses very sparingly. For each desirable characteristic you acquire, you will get many bad traits that you will have to eliminate in succeeding generations.

 

10. Inbreeding is a valuable tool, being the fastest method to set good characteristics and type. It brings to light hidden traits that need to be eliminated from the breed.

 

11. Breeding does not "create" anything. What you get is what was there to begin with. It may have been hidden for many generations, but it was there.

 

12. Discard the old cliche about the littermate of that great producer being just as good to breed to. Littermates seldom have the same genetic make-up.

 

13. Be honest with yourself. There are no perfect dogs (or bitches) nor are there perfect producers. You cannot do a competent job of breeding if you cannot recognize the faults and virtues of the dogs you plan to breed.

 

14. Hereditary traits are inherited equally from both parents. Do not expect to solve all of your problems in one generation.

 

15. If the worst puppy in your last litter is no better than the worst puppy in your first litter, you are not making progress. Your last litter should be your last litter.

 

16. If the best puppy in your last litter is no better than the best puppy in your first litter, you are not making progress. Your last litter should be your last litter.

 

17. Do not choose a breeding animal by either the best or the worst that he (or she) has produced. Evaluate the total get by the attributes of the majority.

 

18. Keep in mind that quality is a combination of soundness and function. It is not merely the lack of faults, but the positive presence of virtues. It is the whole dog that counts.

 

19. Don't allow personal feelings to influence your choice of breeding stock. The right dog for your breeding program is the right dog, whoever owns it. Don't ever decry a good dog; they are too rare and wonderful to be demeaned by pettiness.

 

20. Don't be satisfied with anything but the best. The second best is never good enough.

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Great post DogFox

 

I will say this; Fox Dropper had a fantastic thread on his breeding methods but like many of the good threads, bickering started and he pulled it. He's a very knowledgeable chap

 

There are many intracasies in breeding. As well as the points above, you need to decide if you are line or family breeding. You need to decide if you're breeding for an all round worker or breeding for breeding stock. You need to decide if best to best works, or if inbreeding on your best ever is the best bet

 

Then what method do you use? Look to successful greyhound, horse, gamedog and chicken breeding methods is my opinion but each to their own

 

Would you keep a jacker for breeding from? Many bulldog men would

 

Would you breed on a first season? Same as above

 

No one has all he answers, particularly when some want pats for the bolt and some for the dig. Some want them for fox and some for coon and groundhog. Some dig clay or sand and some work rock. Some want a jacket and some don't. Some even want a double coat. Some want Bayers and some want hard dogs. Some want 10 inches and some want 16

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Great post DogFox

 

I will say this; Fox Dropper had a fantastic thread on his breeding methods but like many of the good threads, bickering started and he pulled it. He's a very knowledgeable chap

 

There are many intracasies in breeding. As well as the points above, you need to decide if you are line or family breeding. You need to decide if you're breeding for an all round worker or breeding for breeding stock. You need to decide if best to best works, or if inbreeding on your best ever is the best bet

 

Then what method do you use? Look to successful greyhound, horse, gamedog and chicken breeding methods is my opinion but each to their own

 

Would you keep a jacker for breeding from? Many bulldog men would

 

Would you breed on a first season? Same as above

 

No one has all he answers, particularly when some want pats for the bolt and some for the dig. Some want them for fox and some for coon and groundhog. Some dig clay or sand and some work rock. Some want a jacket and some don't. Some even want a double coat. Some want Bayers and some want hard dogs. Some want 10 inches and some want 16

Great post and all we can do is state our opinions because nobody knows it all or we would all have perfect dogs that stand the test of time.

 

Interesting you mention Game dogs, now in the books it would tell you to never breed from a cur but in the real world it's been done countless times with great success, the dogs had the blood behind them.

 

Regarding your last point, a pal who is running a bitch has just had a litter after her first season. This is too early for me but he's scared of losing her as she is very hard, too hard for her size. He's taking a gamble on her breeding, he's doing it is own way and won't be told otherwise.

Edited by DogFox123
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Great post DogFox

I will say this; Fox Dropper had a fantastic thread on his breeding methods but like many of the good threads, bickering started and he pulled it. He's a very knowledgeable chap

There are many intracasies in breeding. As well as the points above, you need to decide if you are line or family breeding. You need to decide if you're breeding for an all round worker or breeding for breeding stock. You need to decide if best to best works, or if inbreeding on your best ever is the best bet

Then what method do you use? Look to successful greyhound, horse, gamedog and chicken breeding methods is my opinion but each to their own

Would you keep a jacker for breeding from? Many bulldog men would

Would you breed on a first season? Same as above

No one has all he answers, particularly when some want pats for the bolt and some for the dig. Some want them for fox and some for coon and groundhog. Some dig clay or sand and some work rock. Some want a jacket and some don't. Some even want a double coat. Some want Bayers and some want hard dogs. Some want 10 inches and some want 16

Great post and all we can do is state our opinions because nobody knows it all or we would all have perfect dogs that stand the test of time.

Interesting you mention Game dogs, now in the books it would tell you to never breed from a cur but in the real world it's been done countless times with great success, the dogs had the blood behind them.

Regarding your last point, a pal who is running a bitch has just had a litter after her first season. This is too early for me but he's scared of losing her as she is very hard, too hard for her size. He's taking a gamble on her breeding, he's doing it is own way and won't be told otherwise.

Will he breed off the pups after 1 season through fear of loseing them aswell.
Link to post

 

 

Great post DogFox

I will say this; Fox Dropper had a fantastic thread on his breeding methods but like many of the good threads, bickering started and he pulled it. He's a very knowledgeable chap

There are many intracasies in breeding. As well as the points above, you need to decide if you are line or family breeding. You need to decide if you're breeding for an all round worker or breeding for breeding stock. You need to decide if best to best works, or if inbreeding on your best ever is the best bet

Then what method do you use? Look to successful greyhound, horse, gamedog and chicken breeding methods is my opinion but each to their own

Would you keep a jacker for breeding from? Many bulldog men would

Would you breed on a first season? Same as above

No one has all he answers, particularly when some want pats for the bolt and some for the dig. Some want them for fox and some for coon and groundhog. Some dig clay or sand and some work rock. Some want a jacket and some don't. Some even want a double coat. Some want Bayers and some want hard dogs. Some want 10 inches and some want 16

Great post and all we can do is state our opinions because nobody knows it all or we would all have perfect dogs that stand the test of time.

Interesting you mention Game dogs, now in the books it would tell you to never breed from a cur but in the real world it's been done countless times with great success, the dogs had the blood behind them.

Regarding your last point, a pal who is running a bitch has just had a litter after her first season. This is too early for me but he's scared of losing her as she is very hard, too hard for her size. He's taking a gamble on her breeding, he's doing it is own way and won't be told otherwise.

Will he breed off the pups after 1 season through fear of loseing them aswell.

You better ask him yourself, he was hoping for a bitch but it hasn't worked out for him anyway as only two dogs made it.....

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lol you are getting predictable .How about you just outline the basics for me .Honestly im interested .My own have been written on here numerous times mate ,maybe before you joined so ive nothing to hide .

1. Remember that the animals you select for breeding today will have an impact on the breed for many years to come. Keep that thought firmly in mind when you choose breeding stock.

 

2. You can choose only two individuals per generation. Choose only the best, because you will have to wait for another generation to improve what you start with. Breed only if you expect the progeny to be better than both parents.

 

3. You cannot expect statistical predictions to hold true in a small number of animals (as in one litter of puppies). Statistics only apply to large populations.

 

4. A pedigree is a tool to help you learn the good and bad attributes that your dog is likely to exhibit or reproduce. A pedigree is only as good as the dog it represents.

 

5. Breed for a total dog, not just one or two characteristics. Don't follow fads in your breed, because they are usually meant to emphasize one or two features of the dog at the expense of the soundness and function of the whole.

 

6. Quality does not mean quantity. Quality is produced by careful study, having a good mental picture of what you are trying to achieve, having patience to wait until the right breeding stock is available and to evaluate what you have already produced, and above all, having a breeding plan that is at least three generations ahead of the breeding you do today.

 

7. Remember that skeletal defects are the most difficult to change.

 

8. Don't bother with a good dog that cannot produce well. Enjoy him (or her) for the beauty that he represents but don't use him in a breeding program.

 

9. Use out-crosses very sparingly. For each desirable characteristic you acquire, you will get many bad traits that you will have to eliminate in succeeding generations.

 

10. Inbreeding is a valuable tool, being the fastest method to set good characteristics and type. It brings to light hidden traits that need to be eliminated from the breed.

 

11. Breeding does not "create" anything. What you get is what was there to begin with. It may have been hidden for many generations, but it was there.

 

12. Discard the old cliche about the littermate of that great producer being just as good to breed to. Littermates seldom have the same genetic make-up.

 

13. Be honest with yourself. There are no perfect dogs (or bitches) nor are there perfect producers. You cannot do a competent job of breeding if you cannot recognize the faults and virtues of the dogs you plan to breed.

 

14. Hereditary traits are inherited equally from both parents. Do not expect to solve all of your problems in one generation.

 

15. If the worst puppy in your last litter is no better than the worst puppy in your first litter, you are not making progress. Your last litter should be your last litter.

 

16. If the best puppy in your last litter is no better than the best puppy in your first litter, you are not making progress. Your last litter should be your last litter.

 

17. Do not choose a breeding animal by either the best or the worst that he (or she) has produced. Evaluate the total get by the attributes of the majority.

 

18. Keep in mind that quality is a combination of soundness and function. It is not merely the lack of faults, but the positive presence of virtues. It is the whole dog that counts.

 

19. Don't allow personal feelings to influence your choice of breeding stock. The right dog for your breeding program is the right dog, whoever owns it. Don't ever decry a good dog; they are too rare and wonderful to be demeaned by pettiness.

 

20. Don't be satisfied with anything but the best. The second best is never good enough.

http://www.ecsca.info/basicbreed.html
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IMO it's all horse shit, everyone has a theory, not many if any put them into practice. My own two pence worth, follow a known line of producers and always have one eye on what everyone else is doing, kennel blindness kills lines.

  • Like 11
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lol you are getting predictable .How about you just outline the basics for me .Honestly im interested .My own have been written on here numerous times mate ,maybe before you joined so ive nothing to hide .

1. Remember that the animals you select for breeding today will have an impact on the breed for many years to come. Keep that thought firmly in mind when you choose breeding stock.

 

2. You can choose only two individuals per generation. Choose only the best, because you will have to wait for another generation to improve what you start with. Breed only if you expect the progeny to be better than both parents.

 

3. You cannot expect statistical predictions to hold true in a small number of animals (as in one litter of puppies). Statistics only apply to large populations.

 

4. A pedigree is a tool to help you learn the good and bad attributes that your dog is likely to exhibit or reproduce. A pedigree is only as good as the dog it represents.

 

5. Breed for a total dog, not just one or two characteristics. Don't follow fads in your breed, because they are usually meant to emphasize one or two features of the dog at the expense of the soundness and function of the whole.

 

6. Quality does not mean quantity. Quality is produced by careful study, having a good mental picture of what you are trying to achieve, having patience to wait until the right breeding stock is available and to evaluate what you have already produced, and above all, having a breeding plan that is at least three generations ahead of the breeding you do today.

 

7. Remember that skeletal defects are the most difficult to change.

 

8. Don't bother with a good dog that cannot produce well. Enjoy him (or her) for the beauty that he represents but don't use him in a breeding program.

 

9. Use out-crosses very sparingly. For each desirable characteristic you acquire, you will get many bad traits that you will have to eliminate in succeeding generations.

 

10. Inbreeding is a valuable tool, being the fastest method to set good characteristics and type. It brings to light hidden traits that need to be eliminated from the breed.

 

11. Breeding does not "create" anything. What you get is what was there to begin with. It may have been hidden for many generations, but it was there.

 

12. Discard the old cliche about the littermate of that great producer being just as good to breed to. Littermates seldom have the same genetic make-up.

 

13. Be honest with yourself. There are no perfect dogs (or bitches) nor are there perfect producers. You cannot do a competent job of breeding if you cannot recognize the faults and virtues of the dogs you plan to breed.

 

14. Hereditary traits are inherited equally from both parents. Do not expect to solve all of your problems in one generation.

 

15. If the worst puppy in your last litter is no better than the worst puppy in your first litter, you are not making progress. Your last litter should be your last litter.

 

16. If the best puppy in your last litter is no better than the best puppy in your first litter, you are not making progress. Your last litter should be your last litter.

 

17. Do not choose a breeding animal by either the best or the worst that he (or she) has produced. Evaluate the total get by the attributes of the majority.

 

18. Keep in mind that quality is a combination of soundness and function. It is not merely the lack of faults, but the positive presence of virtues. It is the whole dog that counts.

 

19. Don't allow personal feelings to influence your choice of breeding stock. The right dog for your breeding program is the right dog, whoever owns it. Don't ever decry a good dog; they are too rare and wonderful to be demeaned by pettiness.

 

20. Don't be satisfied with anything but the best. The second best is never good enough.

http://www.ecsca.info/basicbreed.html

You've done your homework.

Link to post

 

 

 

lol you are getting predictable .How about you just outline the basics for me .Honestly im interested .My own have been written on here numerous times mate ,maybe before you joined so ive nothing to hide .

1. Remember that the animals you select for breeding today will have an impact on the breed for many years to come. Keep that thought firmly in mind when you choose breeding stock.

2. You can choose only two individuals per generation. Choose only the best, because you will have to wait for another generation to improve what you start with. Breed only if you expect the progeny to be better than both parents.

3. You cannot expect statistical predictions to hold true in a small number of animals (as in one litter of puppies). Statistics only apply to large populations.

4. A pedigree is a tool to help you learn the good and bad attributes that your dog is likely to exhibit or reproduce. A pedigree is only as good as the dog it represents.

5. Breed for a total dog, not just one or two characteristics. Don't follow fads in your breed, because they are usually meant to emphasize one or two features of the dog at the expense of the soundness and function of the whole.

6. Quality does not mean quantity. Quality is produced by careful study, having a good mental picture of what you are trying to achieve, having patience to wait until the right breeding stock is available and to evaluate what you have already produced, and above all, having a breeding plan that is at least three generations ahead of the breeding you do today.

7. Remember that skeletal defects are the most difficult to change.

8. Don't bother with a good dog that cannot produce well. Enjoy him (or her) for the beauty that he represents but don't use him in a breeding program.

9. Use out-crosses very sparingly. For each desirable characteristic you acquire, you will get many bad traits that you will have to eliminate in succeeding generations.

10. Inbreeding is a valuable tool, being the fastest method to set good characteristics and type. It brings to light hidden traits that need to be eliminated from the breed.

11. Breeding does not "create" anything. What you get is what was there to begin with. It may have been hidden for many generations, but it was there.

12. Discard the old cliche about the littermate of that great producer being just as good to breed to. Littermates seldom have the same genetic make-up.

13. Be honest with yourself. There are no perfect dogs (or bitches) nor are there perfect producers. You cannot do a competent job of breeding if you cannot recognize the faults and virtues of the dogs you plan to breed.

14. Hereditary traits are inherited equally from both parents. Do not expect to solve all of your problems in one generation.

15. If the worst puppy in your last litter is no better than the worst puppy in your first litter, you are not making progress. Your last litter should be your last litter.

16. If the best puppy in your last litter is no better than the best puppy in your first litter, you are not making progress. Your last litter should be your last litter.

17. Do not choose a breeding animal by either the best or the worst that he (or she) has produced. Evaluate the total get by the attributes of the majority.

18. Keep in mind that quality is a combination of soundness and function. It is not merely the lack of faults, but the positive presence of virtues. It is the whole dog that counts.

19. Don't allow personal feelings to influence your choice of breeding stock. The right dog for your breeding program is the right dog, whoever owns it. Don't ever decry a good dog; they are too rare and wonderful to be demeaned by pettiness.

20. Don't be satisfied with anything but the best. The second best is never good enough.

http://www.ecsca.info/basicbreed.html

You've done your homework.

Was you trying to pass that off as your own ?
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IMO it's all horse shit, everyone has a theory, not many if any put them into practice. My own two pence worth, follow a known line of producers and always have one eye on what everyone else is doing, kennel blindness kills lines.

Exactly, let the dogs do the talking and get out there and test them well....

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