Plucky1 1,119 Posted July 22, 2016 Report Share Posted July 22, 2016 (edited) I thought as FD brought the poor manner in which some litters are whelped and in light of a few recent posts on lads not having any idea on raising a healthy litter then a pt 2 may help those thinking of breeding for the first time. Once the pups are born its really important to keep an close eye on the bitch,especially if its a big litter, "milk fever" or eclampsia can be fatal and so plenty of quality food must be given to her at regular intervals, mine get up to 5 meals a day, in that will be mixed meat and those tins of cheap sardines in tomato sauce. I always take my bitches out for a short walk at least morning and night, I think it helps keep the bitch in some sort of normality and routine,I make sure the pups are warm and safe by using a heat lamp if required but do not let them overheat , always make sure that no cats or other animals can get to them, the bitch will be first in the van, during your walk check the bitches urine for any "dark" discharge,this will be normal for a little while but if it is smelly or continues for any length of time see a vet as she may need treatment,the bitch should look pert and sharp and shiny eyed , keep her away from ponds or dirty water as she will get a uterine infection easilly until she tightens up after weaning starts, its normal the first day after the pups are born for the bitch to excrete dark black "poo" as this is the remains of the afterbirth, do not take her anywhere where she can be lost or injured. Providing the bitch is well cared for the first 3 weeks should pass without much interference other than getting them docked and dew clawed at 2 to 4 days depending on your vet or breed of dog,just keep an eye open when changing bedding that there is no bleeding or infection. Pups eyes will normally start to peep or open around 10 days onwards. 3 weeks on is when all the fun starts, I like to start my pups off with some mashed raw quality beef mince, I do not give any chicken as it can carry to much infection and goes off quickly,especially in hot weather, it is around now that I introduce "Lactol" or milk replacement, this will really take the load off the bitch which can be starting to look a little lean by now, I start with a few meals until by 5 to 6 weeks they are independent of the bitch and can stand alone without her needing to be involved, removing the bitch more and more till 6 weeks can be trying depending on the bitch,she will do anything to get in to their plaintive cry's but unless you stand firm it will only get worse, I tend to increase their time out with me and its not until getting home that they show any thoughts of their pups. I feed around 6 times a day until 8 weeks and try to make sure they all get their share, just make sure none start to fall behind in their size or development, some people will talk of "runts" in a litter, I have not had that problem,mine are like peas in a pod,worming can start early but I like to do it at 4 weeks,6 weeks and 8 weeks, I use "Panacur" paste or liquid suspension, always follow the instructions and if it says 3 days consecutive then make sure you do so as they are "gentle" on a pups gut but very effective. I try to socialise my pups by keeping them in the house and due to the amount of people in and out they soon get used to being talked to,picked up,stroked and when my kids were little every kid in the street played with them, in fact we had to search some as they would try taking them home,LOL's, it all builds into a sociable pup,well rounded and confident, in any litter there will be every type from brave bullies to quiet sorts just like us, I like to put the pups in a run in the garden if I'm about and enjoy watching their play fights and development, I clean up any poos as quickly as possible and move the run around the garden or patio to avoid the build up of infectious bacteria,worm eggs,etc, I'm sure there is plenty I've missed out and please feel free to add anything I've forgotten, I like having pups about and it should be enjoyable not a chore so think long and hard before and make sure you have the time to raise a decent litter, I've been to buy pups from some right "sh*tholes" and the pups have been crawling in fleas and worms like spaghetti, there is no need in todays modern world, those pups cannot look after themselves, they need "YOU" to do it for them, WM p.s. I will add photo's later on tonight and have a proper read through of it as I am off to Dudley all day, WM first litter for one of my bitches,pups would only be a few days old but have been freshly docked and dew clawed note there is no size difference in dogs or bitches, no runt, "peas in a pod" you will note the white wire off my digital thermometer on the floor of the bed the same litter almost weaned and a basket full of mischief, still no size difference,healthy and alert you will note this was a winter litter and there are tube heaters in the background to maintain heat Edited July 25, 2016 by Plucky1 9 Quote Link to post
Rat face 1,655 Posted July 22, 2016 Report Share Posted July 22, 2016 Good info there buddy. Cheers for that 2 Quote Link to post
jiggy 3,209 Posted July 24, 2016 Report Share Posted July 24, 2016 A high seat to jump up on or bed or a box the bitch can jump out of in rearing pen is a good idea if 4 to 6 week old pups are pulling and dragging out of bitch constantly it drains them and they lose condition quickly she will hop in and out when she knows they are ready to feed and ill double the bitchs food when whelping pups and i find they keep their average weight. I dont know about feeding 5 times a day to be honest which most people aren,t i wouldnt have the time but if you are retired and do fairplay id feed mine raw in morning before work then raw in evening after work and leave a bowl of nuts in with them during day to pick at i find a bitch on raw will wolf down the meat and only pick at nuts so she wont eat their stash during day when your not there but then again theirs more than one way to skin a cat. 2 Quote Link to post
MIK 4,756 Posted July 25, 2016 Report Share Posted July 25, 2016 I always use Lamlac £25 for 10kg ....lactol £12 500gr use this for the big dogs through the season also 1 Quote Link to post
chesney 5,451 Posted July 25, 2016 Report Share Posted July 25, 2016 Cracking pups plucky fairplay 1 Quote Link to post
Plucky1 1,119 Posted July 25, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2016 A high seat to jump up on or bed or a box the bitch can jump out of in rearing pen is a good idea if 4 to 6 week old pups are pulling and dragging out of bitch constantly it drains them and they lose condition quickly she will hop in and out when she knows they are ready to feed and ill double the bitchs food when whelping pups and i find they keep their average weight. I dont know about feeding 5 times a day to be honest which most people aren,t i wouldnt have the time but if you are retired and do fairplay id feed mine raw in morning before work then raw in evening after work and leave a bowl of nuts in with them during day to pick at i find a bitch on raw will wolf down the meat and only pick at nuts so she wont eat their stash during day when your not there but then again theirs more than one way to skin a cat. My bitches cannot get in to the pups unless I let her in after 3 weeks, the time spent is reduced over the next 3 weeks until the pups are fully independent, from 6-8 weeks if the bitch can get in she will regurgitate her food for the pups and lose condition, I wean the pups in purpose made runs that slot together so they can be as large or small to fit your space available, you can see them in the second picture, very handy and not expensive, WM Quote Link to post
skycat 6,173 Posted July 25, 2016 Report Share Posted July 25, 2016 Not all bitches regurgitate food. I've only ever had one that did it. I like to leave the bitch with the pups, so long as she can get away from them into her own bed which they cannot get into. Basically, I let the bitch dictate the pace at which the pups are weaned. Some bitches go on producing milk for at least 6 weeks. I've never had a bitch lose condition at all, and by the time the pups are a month old they are usually eating very well and topping up with milk when the bitch goes in to clean and lie with them. The bitch is taken out, of course, whilst the pups are eating, and I don't ever feed the bitch in the bed with the pups either, just in case she gets grumpy with them if they pile into her food or merely get too close to her food. Most bitches I've had willingly let the pups eat out of the same bowl though, but I like to make sure both bitch and pups are getting the right amount of food. I've only had one very greedy bitch who would eat all the pups' food, but I still introduce food to the pups when the bitch is not in there with them. Some people might think to put a nice bone in for the bitch when she's with the pups: not a good idea. Dogs are far more possessive over bones that they can't eat up in one go than they are of meat or small bones that they crunch up and eat quickly. It's a dog thing, hence the saying: dog in the manger. 3 Quote Link to post
Squirrel_Basher 17,100 Posted July 25, 2016 Report Share Posted July 25, 2016 I work full time ,so does the wife so bitch is with pups but has access to shelf if needed .Even at 5-6 weeks they can't wait to get back to them after walks .For me there is no hurry and they will go to homes when I'm ready not before .Summer hunting holds no allure to me so no rush at any level .The fact I keep litters small is to the benefit of all ,especially the bitch in returning to condition .For me weaning is done at a pace that the bitch and pups are happy with and no set timing .Food is offered at around 3 weeks .Weetabix to start with and watered down cows milk whilst seperated usually during morning walk for bitch ,Dry puppy mix is available all the time to which the bitch is welcome .Pups have evening feed of raw mince when bitch is walked. Weetabix is done away with when pups are more interested in meat .The fact there is no forced weaning moment means lactol is not needed .Seems strange to me that anyone wants bitch away so quickly and smacks of farming .I've never seen a bitch dragged down by pups and this is due I think to maintaining fitness levels ,small litters and good food .Bitches only have 2 meals a day but as much as they will eat of raw meat both times. Quote Link to post
socks 32,253 Posted July 25, 2016 Report Share Posted July 25, 2016 Why do you feed weetabix when you can feed minced meat and why watered down cows milk when you can use goats milk ..... 1 Quote Link to post
Plucky1 1,119 Posted July 25, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2016 A high seat to jump up on or bed or a box the bitch can jump out of in rearing pen is a good idea if 4 to 6 week old pups are pulling and dragging out of bitch constantly it drains them and they lose condition quickly she will hop in and out when she knows they are ready to feed and ill double the bitchs food when whelping pups and i find they keep their average weight. I dont know about feeding 5 times a day to be honest which most people aren,t i wouldnt have the time but if you are retired and do fairplay id feed mine raw in morning before work then raw in evening after work and leave a bowl of nuts in with them during day to pick at i find a bitch on raw will wolf down the meat and only pick at nuts so she wont eat their stash during day when your not there but then again theirs more than one way to skin a cat. I only feed that often because there is normally somebody about to do so and I would rather feed little and often rather than huge meals a couple of times, its all about time really and how much you work, WM 2 Quote Link to post
Plucky1 1,119 Posted July 25, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2016 I see no harm to either bitch or pups from keeping a big litter, this bitch had nine and coped easily, no runt,good shiny coats and as it was a nice day a temporary run thrown up to take advantage of the good summer weather that year they're straight at her even though they have just been fed I always use a few bowls when feeding and never leave food over,I let the bitch finish any leftovers I always let my pups see rabbits in their skins and don't mind letting them strip a few back legs hung up but these will be removed after a short while they should be made up to see you and I love to socialise them as much as possible so having a large family and friends can always help and kids love them 10 Quote Link to post
Plucky1 1,119 Posted July 26, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2016 (edited) Socialisation is a good thing but keep your runs clean in your garden are many hazards,many plants or bulbs are poisonous and some fatal so be aware of the dangers, my garden can be a bit hectic especially in summer, it is not unusual for my hawks to moult out on their leashes nearby and my ferrets will be put out from time to time to enjoy the fresh air, all these strange sights will make the pups socialisation and education a bit more rounded, my terriers learn a healthy respect for everything early as they will see them in their daily lives hunting female goshawk this male harriss used to love me throw a ball up for him,a great game he could play on his own also stops the boredom keeping him fit the best bit for me when lads I know bring their pups out for the day, my pup is on the left,that bitch of my mates catches birds like a cat Edited July 26, 2016 by Plucky1 11 Quote Link to post
Squirrel_Basher 17,100 Posted July 26, 2016 Report Share Posted July 26, 2016 Have to say Rob ,you rear some crackers mate and the garden advice spot on .Do you have homes lined up before you breed or think about that after and are you ever left with pups you don't necessarily need .Your a lucky man having time for all that 1 Quote Link to post
stop.end 4,079 Posted July 26, 2016 Report Share Posted July 26, 2016 Fair play plucky...them pups are in premium nick.. and 100% are getting the best start thats for sure.. good post. 2 Quote Link to post
Plucky1 1,119 Posted July 26, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2016 Have to say Rob ,you rear some crackers mate and the garden advice spot on .Do you have homes lined up before you breed or think about that after and are you ever left with pups you don't necessarily need .Your a lucky man having time for all that I don't take any deposits or orders as I think then you are a breeder but a few mates always ask me when I'm lining a bitch or keep them in mind for next time, I advertise them from 6 weeks and enjoy meeting decent lads from all over the country until I let them go at 8 weeks, I've never been left with a pup and do genuinely believe in the "quality" I have spread across the country, my pups have gone to every corner of Britain and I get lots of e-mails about their progress, my wife enjoys the pups but after these litters we shall not be breeding again, I will simply let these I have grow old. I get a lot of pm's on here asking me for a pup and yet have never sold one to anyone, I read most posts on this site and you soon get a feel for who looks after dogs and you would be surprised at the amount of "grass hoppers" asking me one week then asking about a patt or border the next, how can I take them seriously ??? I understand you and D.C, etc care every bit as much as me and only breed for yourself and close friends and that is the safest way,it is always a chance selling to unknown people, but I have let local lads have a pup only to take it back due to it not being looked after properly, you like me will still feel the excitement and enjoyment of watching something you have bred work to a decent level,I know some of my posts come across as arrogant and long winded but I am just being honest, WM 6 Quote Link to post
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