obeyerik 3 Posted June 12, 2016 Report Share Posted June 12, 2016 I've used the search function and turned up a few results but I just want to make sure. I've got a 4 mo old pat pup here who is loosing all his hair. Been to the vets last Wednesday and it they think it's demodex and gave me a pill of simparica and said wait four weeks. Since last wednesday he's lost a bunch more hair and scratched his head bloody. I'll be back to the vets tomorrow but I would like to get her to give me some ivermectin. I'm from the states and you can just buy it there at a feed store and we used to use it as a heart worm prophylactic, but now I'm living in Germany and they keep everything pertaining to animals under lock and key. So I know which one to ask for it's the ivermectin for cows correct? Thanks! 1 Quote Link to post
HPR 1,160 Posted June 12, 2016 Report Share Posted June 12, 2016 If your going go vets . Just get the proper wash . The ivermectin used is for cows and pigs . It's good stuff but I only used it if there was no other option . Have you changed her food bedding wash powder etc .Good luck hope it clears up . Quote Link to post
obeyerik 3 Posted June 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2016 I've changed the bedding and the food but so far no luck. The vet was telling me something about them not having the dips anymore but my Germans not perfect I'll have to take my girlfriend with to the vets tomorrow to get everything sorted. Thanks for the well wishes Quote Link to post
spade 224 Posted June 12, 2016 Report Share Posted June 12, 2016 I have a dog with demodex mange at the moment. The vet put us straight on ivermectin saying its more effective than the wash. Quote Link to post
HPR 1,160 Posted June 12, 2016 Report Share Posted June 12, 2016 It's definatly more affective . Just have to be careful with it that's all . 1 Quote Link to post
dillydog 8,462 Posted June 12, 2016 Report Share Posted June 12, 2016 https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Demodicosis&ved=0ahUKEwj0v8_6xaPNAhXhB8AKHXD4Ay0QFggnMAI&usg=AFQjCNGE9PkrF3FCovmzdQJOUvxA9IDvSg Quote Link to post
BGD 6,436 Posted June 13, 2016 Report Share Posted June 13, 2016 Advocate spot on is what you want 1 Quote Link to post
rippem 455 Posted June 13, 2016 Report Share Posted June 13, 2016 Spade, I agree with that. Ivermectin and clean housing and a stress free environment. The only problem is you may control it but it may come back if the dog stress out.I personally wouldn't keep nor breed a dog that has it. Jmo. 1 Quote Link to post
Corkman 944 Posted June 13, 2016 Report Share Posted June 13, 2016 If the Vet is any good and you let him/her know that you are well capable of injecting your own dog then they should be able to give you ivermectin or bimectin on prescription. A big cattle dosage bottle that would do you years. Fooling around with drops or tablets could cost you a fortune. You would need to be careful with the dosage though and it needs to be done properly "by weight of the dog". Rippem is right about stress causing it to flare up. Hard work can bring out in some dogs probably as their immune system takes a dip..... Never had a dog go baldy on me though. I would also spray the bedding/ walls etc with a good cattle/sheep dip to kill anything else off just to be careful. Not nice seeing a dog go that way. Good luck. Quote Link to post
obeyerik 3 Posted June 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2016 I've been to the vet again today with my girlfriend to translate. The vet wants to try the advocate first and give it a week and if that doesn't work ivermectin as a last resort. Luckily I've found a really good vet here who's not out to get rich. She had the advocate on hand as a sample which she gave me for free and she gave me a skin antibiotic and the visit for 28 euros. Quote Link to post
obeyerik 3 Posted June 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2016 As far as keeping/ breeding him- I wouldn't breed off of him nor do I know if he's even any good he's a 4 month old pup. I will however keep him and get him healthy again and Hope that this is just a "Puppy Demodex" as the vet called it. I think a lot of people are too quick to give up on a dog. I bought him to be my working dog and I think a working dog deserves good care and not being tossed out at the first inconvenience. Why else should he want to work for you? My background is in working shepherds training Belgian and Dutch shepherds and I can tell you all the guys who care really well for their dogs have the best workers. The best breeding dog may be kept in a kennel and only let out to bred because he's too hard to train or dangerous, but the best workers always have a great "relationship", if you want to call it that, to their handlers. I've seen a lot of great pups go to guys who only pull the dog out of the kennel twice a week to go train and do nothing else with them ruined. If I invest a lot of time into a dog I can hopefully expect a lot back that's just how I see it. 1 Quote Link to post
rippem 455 Posted June 18, 2016 Report Share Posted June 18, 2016 I have a question for you seeing you train dogs,wich I also train mals in ring sport, is a good dog working for you or working for itself? I've seen great dogs work well for one guy then get handed over to another and works no different.but then again I've seen the opposite also..but I've seen more high level dogs work for who ever just the same and didn't care as long as it got to work. And as far as the mange goes on a young pup it's not a good sign, and I agree see what you can do to see if it's 100% treatable. But chances are it very well may come back.but that type of dog should never be bred. Not a good trait. Quote Link to post
obeyerik 3 Posted June 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2016 I have seen both as well. I think most of the dogs I've seen (I was training in holland in knpv) were working cause they love to work, but they are good at their particular job because they have been taught from an early age (you pick up your prospect at 6 weeks) that making mistakes isn't an option. I don't know how other dog sports are but in knpv you are training your dog with the help of the club, so the dog is used to being handled by different people from a young age. Usually when he passes his test he is already reserved by the police pending the passed exam. I don't know if you're familiar with it but they have a pretty "unrefined" way of training dogs there. I think the best of the best, have a huge will to please and are certainly a team with their trainer. Of course There are guys who just beat the dogs until they get what they want from them and those dogs you see it- they're always walking in the exams like the trainer could turn around and belt shit out of them at any moment. Both dogs can place high in the exams but I think everyone would prefer to watch and train the dog that is really working with his handler as a team. Quote Link to post
foxhunting1 74 Posted June 20, 2016 Report Share Posted June 20, 2016 Ivomec is what i have used for years, the only issue is a vet wont mention it unless you have a very good relationship with them as it is not registered for dogs. You only need to use 0.3ml and use 3 dosages a week apart, injecting it can be painful or leave a lump BUT you can administer oraly Quote Link to post
bedx 51 Posted June 20, 2016 Report Share Posted June 20, 2016 orally is the only way imo it could take 12 mths before its clear and it ain't going to cheap with the regular testing and buying the stuff.atb with the pup Quote Link to post
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