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Modified Victor Rat Trap


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They look ok, certainly may have their uses/benefits.

 

The boxes are rather good at shepherding the rat effectively to an accurate kill zone as well, and exposed/externally are essential!

 

post-10759-0-40967500-1465113539.jpg

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They look ok, certainly may have their uses/benefits.

 

The boxes are rather good at shepherding the rat effectively to an accurate kill zone as well, and exposed/externally are essential!

 

attachicon.gif001a.jpg

 

I've had a few problems with that type of set up. Some of the larger rats are managing to reach the bait without stepping onto the trigger plate. They seem to eat what they can reach and not venture onto the plate to get their noses into the cup to finish the bait off. Not every time. But now and again I'd get the same problem. In the end I used a plastic tool box, cut holes either side near to the top and put two Mk. IV springers inside covered with straw from a chicken coop and hung a bird feeder fat ball inside right in the middle.

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They look ok, certainly may have their uses/benefits.

 

The boxes are rather good at shepherding the rat effectively to an accurate kill zone as well, and exposed/externally are essential!

 

attachicon.gif001a.jpg

 

I've had a few problems with that type of set up. Some of the larger rats are managing to reach the bait without stepping onto the trigger plate. They seem to eat what they can reach and not venture onto the plate to get their noses into the cup to finish the bait off. Not every time. But now and again I'd get the same problem. In the end I used a plastic tool box, cut holes either side near to the top and put two Mk. IV springers inside covered with straw from a chicken coop and hung a bird feeder fat ball inside right in the middle.

If you're struggling with the bait box set up as you said. Don't bait the cup on the trap. Smear your bait further back on the trap and put some on the underside of the lid above the trap.

That should cure that problem

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Rats and stoats are a real pest in new zealand,

A lot of testing went into its design.

 

Here's something that's wrecked my head in the past and this has reminded me of it once again. How is it deemed legal and humane to trap stoats in New zealand, with a Victor rat trap, yet they believe (with all their rigorous testing) a Fenn MK1V does not have sufficient killing power to kill a stoat humanely?

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Rats and stoats are a real pest in new zealand,

A lot of testing went into its design.

 

Here's something that's wrecked my head in the past and this has reminded me of it once again. How is it deemed legal and humane to trap stoats in New zealand, with a Victor rat trap, yet they believe (with all their rigorous testing) a Fenn MK1V does not have sufficient killing power to kill a stoat humanely?

 

Agreed.....load of bollocks...

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They look ok, certainly may have their uses/benefits.

 

The boxes are rather good at shepherding the rat effectively to an accurate kill zone as well, and exposed/externally are essential!

 

attachicon.gif001a.jpg

I've had a few problems with that type of set up. Some of the larger rats are managing to reach the bait without stepping onto the trigger plate. They seem to eat what they can reach and not venture onto the plate to get their noses into the cup to finish the bait off. Not every time. But now and again I'd get the same problem. In the end I used a plastic tool box, cut holes either side near to the top and put two Mk. IV springers inside covered with straw from a chicken coop and hung a bird feeder fat ball inside right in the middle.

If you're struggling with the bait box set up as you said. Don't bait the cup on the trap. Smear your bait further back on the trap and put some on the underside of the lid above the trap.

That should cure that problem

 

 

Cheers Moxy. I thought about smearing bait on the underside of the lid, but decided against it as I thought that the rat would enter the trap head, up sniffing the lid and the trapping wire might miss it. I got one by its front feet a couple of weeks ago and there was only half of it left when I checked the trap next morning. Put the Mk. IV box out that night and caught a fecking monster.

 

I'll give your suggestions a go. Thanks.

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Rats and stoats are a real pest in new zealand,

A lot of testing went into its design.

Here's something that's wrecked my head in the past and this has reminded me of it once again. How is it deemed legal and humane to trap stoats in New zealand, with a Victor rat trap, yet they believe (with all their rigorous testing) a Fenn MK1V does not have sufficient killing power to kill a stoat humanely?

Because ... someone in 'The Gang' have been allowed to do it to make a few dollars. The whole thing is a charade, and is as transparent as water. It makes me bloody annoyed ...

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When 'someone' over here modified a Victor rat trap in a similar way, to ensure clean kills for stoats and squirrels the idea was ridiculed by those in 'The Gang', and now suddenly it is a great new idea. Nearly everything I see is a reinvention of the wheel ...

 

And as for that set up in the Landcare Research video, well, I fail to see such a design taking off over here. Could they have made that folded trap tunnel more obvious or alien looking if they tried? I doubt it ...

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They look ok, certainly may have their uses/benefits.

 

The boxes are rather good at shepherding the rat effectively to an accurate kill zone as well, and exposed/externally are essential!

 

attachicon.gif001a.jpg

I've had a few problems with that type of set up. Some of the larger rats are managing to reach the bait without stepping onto the trigger plate. They seem to eat what they can reach and not venture onto the plate to get their noses into the cup to finish the bait off. Not every time. But now and again I'd get the same problem. In the end I used a plastic tool box, cut holes either side near to the top and put two Mk. IV springers inside covered with straw from a chicken coop and hung a bird feeder fat ball inside right in the middle.

If you're struggling with the bait box set up as you said. Don't bait the cup on the trap. Smear your bait further back on the trap and put some on the underside of the lid above the trap.

That should cure that problem

 

 

:yes::yes:

 

Done that myself before! :thumbs:

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I get the research and I get the apparatus to direct the stoat/rat into the kill zone, but there is a suggestion in the Vid the stoat has very strong neck muscles and can pull out.

 

I have no idea of the regs down under but a stronger spring comes to mind as well as the plastic bits!

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