Cz Triggers

[Graham M 36]

I know that you can buy the trigger kits for @ £14 to make that awful CZ trigger work a bit better, but has anyone upgraded to one of these -

https://www.diproductsinc.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=156624&TERM=452

 

@ half the price of a Rifle Basix

https://www.cheaperthandirt.com/product/rifle-basix-cz-452-adjustable-after-market-trigger-silver-cz452-891678000313.do

 

 

Or perhaps the cream of the three- http://www.timneytriggers.com/shop/timney-cz-452-replacement-trigger.aspx

 

G

[3175darren 1,102]

just better to get used to the trigger in my opinion, I don't notice it now,

[Deker 3,478]

The short answer personally is no, I have never found the need.

 

My latest HMR and WMR triggers were terrible from new, and I fitted the Brooks kit to both, the transformation was remarkable and more than adequate for Field work. My Silhouette .22LR is still original and fine, my latest Company .22LR which came and went quite quickly was also fine, and my last WMR was fine!

 

Its all down to expectation and intended use.

 

Personally, the trigger kits have done everything I needed!

 

Perhaps I'm just used to the appalling trigger on my 7022, after that everything feels brilliant!

 

Some feedback from anyone who has fitted a trigger upgrade would certainly be interesting though!

[Underdog 2,337]

Never ever have fitted a kit to any rifle but have improved many a stock trigger of which includes several cz.

They are very easy to improve.

 

U.

[Graham M 36]

Never ever have fitted a kit to any rifle but have improved many a stock trigger of which includes several cz.

They are very easy to improve.

 

U.

On most rifles I would agree, but the CZ is a funny bugger and has a built-in creep due to the gap that normally exists above the trigger pin. Very easy to fit the Brookes kit but just wondered if anyone had felt the desire to go one better.

I remember the easiest fix for my Sako Finnfire was to take out the car suspension spring in front of the trigger blade and replace it with one from a ballpoint pen. Made an uncomfortably heavy trigger into a delight to use at @ 8oz.

Now I know some may think this too light, but I am used to exceptionally light triggers so I am comfortable using it without any problems.

My Anschutz Match trigger is @ 4grms

 

 

G

[Underdog 2,337]

 

 

Never ever have fitted a kit to any rifle but have improved many a stock trigger of which includes several cz.

They are very easy to improve.

 

U.

On most rifles I would agree, but the CZ is a funny bugger and has a built-in creep due to the gap that normally exists above the trigger pin. Very easy to fit the Brookes kit but just wondered if anyone had felt the desire to go one better.

I remember the easiest fix for my Sako Finnfire was to take out the car suspension spring in front of the trigger blade and replace it with one from a ballpoint pen. Made an uncomfortably heavy trigger into a delight to use at @ 8oz.

Now I know some may think this too light, but I am used to exceptionally light triggers so I am comfortable using it without any problems.

My Anschutz Match trigger is @ 4grms

 

 

G

I think the cz triggers are a gem to work on.

Stoned about 7 I think and fit a lighter spring jobs a good one.

 

The most difficult triggers to sort are win94 ae rebounders, ruger1022 and stock REM 700 units.

 

Cz are one of the easiest!.

 

U.

[moxy 617]

Fitted a spring kit in mine. Works a treat. Couldn't tell you what the pull is but it works for me.

[Graham M 36]

 

 

Never ever have fitted a kit to any rifle but have improved many a stock trigger of which includes several cz.

They are very easy to improve.

 

U.

On most rifles I would agree, but the CZ is a funny bugger and has a built-in creep due to the gap that normally exists above the trigger pin. Very easy to fit the Brookes kit but just wondered if anyone had felt the desire to go one better.

I remember the easiest fix for my Sako Finnfire was to take out the car suspension spring in front of the trigger blade and replace it with one from a ballpoint pen. Made an uncomfortably heavy trigger into a delight to use at @ 8oz.

Now I know some may think this too light, but I am used to exceptionally light triggers so I am comfortable using it without any problems.

My Anschutz Match trigger is @ 4grms

 

 

G

I think the cz triggers are a gem to work on.

Stoned about 7 I think and fit a lighter spring jobs a good one.

 

The most difficult triggers to sort are win94 ae rebounders, ruger1022 and stock REM 700 units.

 

Cz are one of the easiest!.

 

U.

 

I have a Winchester Legacy (94 post 64 AE) and that was so easy it beggared belief. The R700 needed a lot of work I do admit and I had to do a lot of messing about to get it right............and then sold it

 

The thing with the CZ isn't anything to do with stoning the sear though, it's more to do with the amount of catch overlap, which is taken out by fitting that tube. You would think that CZ would fit an adjustable one like the top item and then just add another £25 to the rifle. After all most people are paying another £14 or so for the Brookes kit so it wouldn't be here nor there really would it.

 

 

G

[Underdog 2,337]

Do you mean the sears overlapping?

That's what my fine stones are for.

The overlap amount is what makes them safe, the angle they are stoned at determines how they slide!

 

I never lessen sear engagement on a trigger apart from certain air guns.

 

The 94ae has small parts making it a fiddle to get the other half of the sear out. Rebuilding it all to test can test patience. Their sears are 'hooked' (often that is the single most cause to a heavey or creepy trigger) and often the hammer can be observed creepng back just before it is released.

This means the trigger finger is acting on the main spring!

By stoning the hooked sears interaction a clean break is achieved without any spring changing with exception to the small first stage spring.

Many replace the main hammer spring for a lighter one. That can lead to light strikes.

 

U.

Edited April 27, 2016 by Underdog

[Graham M 36]

The amount of overlap is also what causes the "Creep" and if you stone the sears it will make them easier to slide but won't remove that creep unless you stone it right up to the point where they are just about to break.

At least with the tube fitted to the trigger pin on the CZ it removes 90% of that creep and THEN you can polish the sears.

 

The Winchester hammer is like my old revolvers but without the first "Safety" notch, and just needed stoning up to the point where creep was eliminated. I haven't bought a lighter spring for that rifle but I did buy a Wolf spring for my Marlin 39a and the trigger on that is really nice.

I can see you are a bit like myself and enjoy the "messing about" part of shooting. I bought the Winny S/H and my other half knew that the first thing I would do would be to take it all apart and "Piss about with it"

I have seen some horrific botches though, and one Howa, owned by one of the lads in the syndicate, had to have a new trigger because he had stoned it to the point where the safety had to be forced on. Then if you pulled the trigger it didn't fire but allowed the sear to slip. This meant that when the safety was taken off the firing pin went forward .....................

 

With the Howa it's more of a case using the adjustment screw to take it up to the point where nearly all the creep is taken out (but it never removes it all) and then removing material from the front of the hammer, but not enough material as to make it unable to push the safety on.

 

Anschutz match triggers are just about the best in the world (and the most complicated) and can be taken down to the point where a puff of wind will set them off..............and still be safe. But you must be comfortable using one otherwise your scores can suffer a bit. Shots in the white bits of the target tend to screw your scores up

 

 

G

[Underdog 2,337]

The amount of overlap is also what causes the "Creep" and if you stone the sears it will make them easier to slide but won't remove that creep unless you stone it right up to the point where they are just about to break.

At least with the tube fitted to the trigger pin on the CZ it removes 90% of that creep and THEN you can polish the sears.

 

The Winchester hammer is like my old revolvers but without the first "Safety" notch, and just needed stoning up to the point where creep was eliminated. I haven't bought a lighter spring for that rifle but I did buy a Wolf spring for my Marlin 39a and the trigger on that is really nice.

I can see you are a bit like myself and enjoy the "messing about" part of shooting. I bought the Winny S/H and my other half knew that the first thing I would do would be to take it all apart and "Piss about with it"

I have seen some horrific botches though, and one Howa, owned by one of the lads in the syndicate, had to have a new trigger because he had stoned it to the point where the safety had to be forced on. Then if you pulled the trigger it didn't fire but allowed the sear to slip. This meant that when the safety was taken off the firing pin went forward .....................

 

With the Howa it's more of a case using the adjustment screw to take it up to the point where nearly all the creep is taken out (but it never removes it all) and then removing material from the front of the hammer, but not enough material as to make it unable to push the safety on.

 

Anschutz match triggers are just about the best in the world (and the most complicated) and can be taken down to the point where a puff of wind will set them off..............and still be safe. But you must be comfortable using one otherwise your scores can suffer a bit. Shots in the white bits of the target tend to screw your scores up

 

 

G

Agree and disagree!

 

Your right on being a tinkerer.

 

Your not right regarding the amount of sear engagement!

It is hard to illustrate. It is the angle they are paired together in relation to their pivots.

You want an angle that once the finger moves the mechanism, in others words, overcomes the spring holding the sears together the two sear aid flying apart.

Creep is the demonstration of them resisting flying apart, not because of spring weight or even a poor finish. It is due to a camping action against one another!

 

Very rarely should sear engagement be lessoned!!

A very simple trigger is the Remington 597. Many lighten the small main spring but it does not improve the trigger so next up many lessen the sear engagement.

They then end up with a full auto 22 because that action needs to overcome strong vibes and needs full sear engagement and good trigger main spring weight.

Only subtle angle change to the sears engagement is needed but being hard to see or grasp the idea it is overlooked.

 

Howa triggers ideally only need a spring adjustment to bring the range of adjustment ideal. Similar to the vanguard, t3 and some Parker Hale's.

 

U.

[Deker 3,478]

 

 

 

 

 

[Underdog 2,337]

 

 

 

 

 

Lol, it's not like that.

 

I only learnt by making mistakes myself.

Am not trying to be pushy but rather encourage a new approach :-)

 

U.

[Deker 3,478]

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lol, it's not like that.

 

I only learnt by making mistakes myself.

Am not trying to be pushy but rather encourage a new approach :-)

 

U.

 

 

I know!

Edited April 27, 2016 by Deker

[Graham M 36]

What!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

It's innerestin'...................... innit

 

And at least it isn't descending into a bar room fight like you see on some other forums...............................fori ?????

 

 

G

Edited April 27, 2016 by Graham M