Crunch The Rock Dog 0 Posted April 6, 2016 Report Share Posted April 6, 2016 Any ideas what will clean the carbon deposits off my mod its caked on tried everything to clean it off including kettle descaler even soaked the parts in vinegar nothing will shift it Napier bore cleaner has no effect only other option i can think off is to use a wire brush in a drill which i want to avoid in case i cause any lasting damage. Any suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks Crunch Quote Link to post
Hydropotesinermis 724 Posted April 7, 2016 Report Share Posted April 7, 2016 Maybe petrol? Quote Link to post
Deker 3,478 Posted April 7, 2016 Report Share Posted April 7, 2016 (edited) Which mod off which rifle and how many shots have been through it? Normally an overnight soak in washing up liquid will soften enough to clean, or of course solvents, but if it is seriously well burnt on you may have to get serious to clean it? Edited April 7, 2016 by Deker Quote Link to post
foxyfowler 5 Posted April 7, 2016 Report Share Posted April 7, 2016 I clean my centre fire mods occasionally in the sonic cleaner. Don't clean anything else at the same time though. It's like washing coloureds and whites together. Andy Quote Link to post
walshie 2,804 Posted April 7, 2016 Report Share Posted April 7, 2016 If it's really grimed on hard, a bit of carburettor cleaner on a paper towel should soften it. Don't get in on any rubber rings though. Quote Link to post
Coypu Hunter 486 Posted April 8, 2016 Report Share Posted April 8, 2016 Petrol normally softens the deposits. Soaking in cleaning alcohol also works for my .22LR mods, and I use an old toothbrush for those hard-to-reach places. Quote Link to post
Alsone 789 Posted April 9, 2016 Report Share Posted April 9, 2016 (edited) If it's anything like the carbon deposits from car brakes, you could try Valet Pro Bilbury wheel cleaner as it's acid free and very effective on alloys. Not 100% sure how the blackening would react on a black moderator. Might be safest on silver, unless you want to be the 1st to try! Edited April 9, 2016 by Alsone Quote Link to post
morgan the moon 0 Posted April 15, 2016 Report Share Posted April 15, 2016 STP heavy duty brake parts cleaner, cleans auto shotguns, moderators, etc, does not strip paint or blueing, No1 cleaner. Quote Link to post
Skyman 2 Posted April 28, 2016 Report Share Posted April 28, 2016 Dish washer tablet leave over night in a bucket of water.then strip and clean. Dry it off thoroughly. Quote Link to post
Graham M 36 Posted April 30, 2016 Report Share Posted April 30, 2016 Just a thought, but how do you lads clean a T8 moderator? I normally squirt a bit of WD40 into the can when I have finished just to try and drive out any moisture. Apart from that I can only think of soaking the whole thing in diesel or something, although I'm sure that this would have a detrimental effect on the outside coating. G Quote Link to post
Deker 3,478 Posted April 30, 2016 Report Share Posted April 30, 2016 (edited) Just a thought, but how do you lads clean a T8 moderator? I normally squirt a bit of WD40 into the can when I have finished just to try and drive out any moisture. Apart from that I can only think of soaking the whole thing in diesel or something, although I'm sure that this would have a detrimental effect on the outside coating. G ...........I didn't think they needed any help to rot away, I thought they simply did that by themselves, like a sort of built in obsolescence! PS To be fair they do a stainless now I believe, still not up to the P8 in my book! Edited April 30, 2016 by Deker Quote Link to post
Graham M 36 Posted April 30, 2016 Report Share Posted April 30, 2016 I had a Wildcat on my .223 and although it was strippable it was also unbelievably heavy. I have had a T8 on my .243 for @ 10 years now and have the T8 Scout on my .308 and neither have been a problem. Perhaps it's because I squirt WD40 into them after use. G Quote Link to post
Deker 3,478 Posted May 1, 2016 Report Share Posted May 1, 2016 I had a Wildcat on my .223 and although it was strippable it was also unbelievably heavy. I have had a T8 on my .243 for @ 10 years now and have the T8 Scout on my .308 and neither have been a problem. Perhaps it's because I squirt WD40 into them after use. G P8 COMPACT is the route, smaller and lighter than T8 or P8, fine up to and including .308! Quote Link to post
wilbur foxhound 480 Posted May 1, 2016 Report Share Posted May 1, 2016 i certainly wouldn't use water as soot and water makes up sulphuric acid which eats away at metal unless you get it completely dry when finished,probably why a lot of shotguns become pitted,not cleaned and condensation Quote Link to post
Graham M 36 Posted May 1, 2016 Report Share Posted May 1, 2016 I had a Wildcat on my .223 and although it was strippable it was also unbelievably heavy. I have had a T8 on my .243 for @ 10 years now and have the T8 Scout on my .308 and neither have been a problem. Perhaps it's because I squirt WD40 into them after use. G P8 COMPACT is the route, smaller and lighter than T8 or P8, fine up to and including .308! Trouble is it's another £220? to fork out when I don't need one as yet. Went out with the .308 today just to play at a new 200yd plate that we have set up on the shoot. It really does make all the differnce with a moderator as we can shoot without ear protection and have a little bit of banter. Jeeze, when you see a bloody gert ding in a 12mm plate at 200yds you appreciate the knock-down power of a 150grn .308 bullet. G Quote Link to post
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