Truther 1,579 Posted November 27, 2015 Report Share Posted November 27, 2015 also, does anybody no if I should be seeking planning permission for what I want to do? Not to replace a garage that's already there mate, that shouldn't be a problem, so long as its the same height, height restrictions usually apply. I think you could have problems with a block and beam floor to run a car on though, specially with a storage space underneath, they'll probably want a structural engineer to design it, if they let you do it at all, odds on they'll want a central supporting wall, or walls, in which case its cheaper to go the tin sheet/concrete route, just a thought. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
shealy 176 Posted November 27, 2015 Report Share Posted November 27, 2015 For my own kennel a need to build the back end up and slope down towards my drain what would i be better to do leave under the block and beam empty , fill it up with type one to the required level for ventalation or just fill in the whole empty space underneath the block and beam feedback is appreciated mate it will be a builder who does it just so i have a bit of knowledge before the guy comes to look at the job so a know what hes talking about lol You don't need block and beam at all mate, build the foundation up, if its deep use cheap hardcore like crushed brick, then a decent layer of limestone (crush and run) make sure the limestone is compressed properly, and fit a plastic membrane to stop rising damp, if its going to be covered that is, pointless if not, then just concrete it up to finished level, dead easy. cheers mate what would reckon a would need to do with the perimeter just breeze block it up to the right level at the furtherest away end and slope the blocks down towards the drain ones av built it up then infill with the materials your talking about i appreciate the replys btw cheers Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Truther 1,579 Posted November 27, 2015 Report Share Posted November 27, 2015 Its easier and neater to build the blocks level and put a bit of fall into the finished concrete floor, if you make the finished floor level high enough you could fit drainage pipes in while back filling, ideal fall is 1" in ten ft of pipe length, make it fall to a central drain from both sides if possible. I'd use 140mm concrete blocks for the sides, and make sure its cured a bit before filling/whacking, worth taking your time and getting it right first time mate. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
shealy 176 Posted November 27, 2015 Report Share Posted November 27, 2015 Cheers mate if only you lived up this way lol Quote Link to post Share on other sites
wilbur foxhound 480 Posted December 9, 2015 Report Share Posted December 9, 2015 knock it down and get the brickie to start from scratch it will be a lot easier and a neater job Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Squirrel_Basher 17,100 Posted January 5, 2016 Report Share Posted January 5, 2016 Block and beam is fine for garage floor ,weve not long done the same.Beams will be shortest span so no bounce .Building control will have no issue with the storage space and will advise on the support lintel over any opening go the storage area. Build the footings in 6 inch block therefore avoiding the need for pillars.Good luck. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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