Trying To Catch Moles

[bryn27 89]

Trapline is shite for me and has cruel pinching method (belly skin)

Might be down to operator error but not for me anymore.

[perthshire keeper 1,239]

Yes they are...that is why I want to do it myself. That is the going rate around here. I have talked to several guys...all about the same price.

speaking as a mole catcher.....ime booking my flights!

[Nicepix 5,650]

 

I thought that American moles were smaller than European ones? That's why Steve Alba sends larger versions of Traplines over here. The Duffus traps might not be suitable and it is a lot of money to waste if they don't work. And to be honest, if the OP can't trap any moles using the traps he has used it points towards technique, not the type of trap that is in question.

 

It is likely me, so if there is any helpful hints you guys have, please feel free to share. I have two types of traps that people say are good...so I should see some results.

 

thanks

 

It might help if you explained how, what and where you placed the traps. Also, are the moles by-passing the traps, are they filling them and going over the top, that sort of detail will help to identify the problem.

[MAG1980 116]

Eddie, ive never used trapline mole traps so cant offer any advice but as you mentioned nomol i have some and caught well using them especially when you come across "splitters" in main runs. I slide them in the runs with the forks facing upwards as i have better results. Nicepix could provide more detailed info as he use's the french "putange" which is a better beefed up version of the nomol.

 

ATB

MAG

[eddie1976E 1]

It might help if you explained how, what and where you placed the traps. Also, are the moles by-passing the traps, are they filling them and going over the top, that sort of detail will help to identify the problem.

 

 

 

I'm setting the traps along a long run which is up against a gardening "separator" that separates the grass from gravel on the other side. They love digging there. The only thing I have noticed is that the traps might be closer to the surface after a few days than when I set them. So, maybe they are digging under the traps. I set the traps with the prongs down (nomol traps), but I don't get dig out the trench to the point the trap lays level. The back end of the trap is higher than the front, could that be the issue? Thanks for your help.

 

Eddie, ive never used trapline mole traps so cant offer any advice but as you mentioned nomol i have some and caught well using them especially when you come across "splitters" in main runs. I slide them in the runs with the forks facing upwards as i have better results. Nicepix could provide more detailed info as he use's the french "putange" which is a better beefed up version of the nomol.

 

ATB

MAG

I can try setting them with the forks up...thanks for the suggestion.

[Nicepix 5,650]

Its a good thing to set traps along a line of demarcation whether that is under a fence, along a flower border or alongside a patio as moles regularly make commuting tunnels in those places so you are onto a good start. Once you have found the tunnel and ensured that you have the alignment right, carefully open it up like you were doing surgery, not landscape gardening. Use a knife or sharp flat trowel if the soil is soft enough, or a small sharp spade if not. Only open enough for one trap length and don't dog deeper than the level of the tunnel floor.

 

Carefully open up the hole and use a bent wire or spoon to gently clear out and fallen debris up to around 2" inside the tunnels and the exposed area. Set the NoMols like this with the triggers about 1" back from the prongs.......

 

 

 

Slide them in prongs first and prongs up. The tight twine helps stop them from leaning forwards towards the prongs when sliding them in. Make sure the triggers are inside the tunnel and peg each trap with a piece of wire. Then re-close the tunnel using the clod if possible or a flat wood or plastic cover, weighted and sealed around the edges with soil.

 

That should work OK. But if what you are saying is that the mole is going under the traps the way to make sure is to probe down under the trap using a piece of wire or spoon handle and if you feel another tunnel underneath then that is the case. Just take out the traps, excavate down to the lower level and replace the traps as above.

[eddie1976E 1]

Its a good thing to set traps along a line of demarcation whether that is under a fence, along a flower border or alongside a patio as moles regularly make commuting tunnels in those places so you are onto a good start. Once you have found the tunnel and ensured that you have the alignment right, carefully open it up like you were doing surgery, not landscape gardening. Use a knife or sharp flat trowel if the soil is soft enough, or a small sharp spade if not. Only open enough for one trap length and don't dog deeper than the level of the tunnel floor.

 

Carefully open up the hole and use a bent wire or spoon to gently clear out and fallen debris up to around 2" inside the tunnels and the exposed area. Set the NoMols like this with the triggers about 1" back from the prongs.......

 

 

 

Slide them in prongs first and prongs up. The tight twine helps stop them from leaning forwards towards the prongs when sliding them in. Make sure the triggers are inside the tunnel and peg each trap with a piece of wire. Then re-close the tunnel using the clod if possible or a flat wood or plastic cover, weighted and sealed around the edges with soil.

 

That should work OK. But if what you are saying is that the mole is going under the traps the way to make sure is to probe down under the trap using a piece of wire or spoon handle and if you feel another tunnel underneath then that is the case. Just take out the traps, excavate down to the lower level and replace the traps as above.

 

Thanks for the details and the images. The instructions on the nomol say to put the trigger closer to where the wires cross than to the prongs. I have seen several images that show this and a video. It didn't make sense to me to set the trigger so far back...but I followed the instructions. I will try your set up and hopefully come back with good results. Things are dry here now so not sure how long before I see more tunneling.

[Nicepix 5,650]

Even if there is no new tunnelling the mole(s) are likely to be travelling along older tunnels.

 

I have just looked at the instructions on the NoMol site. In my opinion the triggers are set way too far back. With the larger European moles and the triggers set 1" (25mm) from the prongs as I suggest the mole is usually caught just behind the head in the shoulder area. I would imagine that if I set the triggers as per the NoMol instructions there would be a good chance of the trap missing the mole or getting a very back end capture.

 

 

I would also get rid of the chain and replace it with a strong thin cord tied as per the photos in my earlier post so the trigger is retained in the set position when set 1" from the prongs.

Edited August 8, 2015 by Nicepix

[Rowan 308]

Hi I've been reading this with some interest as after 30+ years I find it time and time again. most people either try themselves or get a professional in and then try to copy what the've done . there Really is no substitute for experience and time spent in the field.

Having said all that after being charged all that I can understand you wanting to have ago yourself, but I also think that pest controllers here in the uk , myself included vastly undercharge for our time served experience.

 

I know everyone has to start somewhere , a good reference point is a book by Steve Cable,"trapping and Snaring", i'm sure you can find some very usefull tips in that if not well, I guess its get the molecatcher back who made it look so easy.

[eddie1976E 1]

Even if there is no new tunnelling the mole(s) are likely to be travelling along older tunnels.

 

I have just looked at the instructions on the NoMol site. In my opinion the triggers are set way too far back. With the larger European moles and the triggers set 1" (25mm) from the prongs as I suggest the mole is usually caught just behind the head in the shoulder area. I would imagine that if I set the triggers as per the NoMol instructions there would be a good chance of the trap missing the mole or getting a very back end capture.

 

 

I would also get rid of the chain and replace it with a strong thin cord tied as per the photos in my earlier post so the trigger is retained in the set position when set 1" from the prongs.

 

I tried your suggestions. I placed per your directions and noticed that there was a little hole in the area I had placed the trap (24 hours after placing it). It looks like the mole hit the trigger (it was pivoted back) and he ended up tunneling up and creating a hole in the surface. This is the closest I came to catching one.

[Nicepix 5,650]

I'd suggest that it might not be moles in those tunnels. Rodents perhaps?

[eddie1976E 1]

I'd suggest that it might not be moles in those tunnels. Rodents perhaps?

not sure....tunnels look awfully like mole tunnels. hopefully I will catch one soon. Now it is getting personal. :-)

[Nicepix 5,650]

Over here all sorts of things take over vacant mole tunnels; voles, mice, rats and reptiles such as snakes and toads. Also small predators such as weasels go through the tunnels looking for a meal. If there are open holes then chances are it is not moles who are resident.

[Digby 5]

+1 www.flatpack.co.uk

Their stainless steel half barrel traps are top notch.

You get what you pay for, they will last for years, if you look after them.

 

On the other hand - The Big Cheese . . .

Buy cheap - buy twice!

 

Re : mole charge in the US.

Wow!

 

Unbelievable Jeff !!!

If only . . .

[Digby 5]

You never know what you will catch in a half barrel trap!

Edited August 18, 2015 by Digby