DeerhoundLurcherMan 997 Posted April 6, 2015 Report Share Posted April 6, 2015 Just trying to learn as much as I can about re-loading before I get stuck in... Do you trim your brass each time you load it or every few loads? Do some calibres stretch brass more than others? I will be loading for my .223 and have 200 once fired hornady cases.... will they need trimming for there next load? Cheers! Ps expect more questions soon!! Quote Link to post
DeerhoundLurcherMan 997 Posted April 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2015 Obviously they have a maximum length...and will need checking... But how many loads will they be good for until they will need a trim? Or is it good practice to include the check and trim into every loading session? Also how many loads will I get out of .223 brass...? Quote Link to post
charlie caller 3,654 Posted April 7, 2015 Report Share Posted April 7, 2015 Easy answer pal, Lee case length gauge and cutter, costs about 15 quid all in, checks your case length and trims to factory length if required, check your cases EVERYTIME you load a new batch, then not only do you know they are a safe length, but consistent, which is the key to accurate ammo, also gives you a guide to how your cases are stretching,some hot loads will stretch your brass more than others, but not always, so always check. 2 Quote Link to post
Winchester 6 Posted April 7, 2015 Report Share Posted April 7, 2015 How you cleaning your brass ? I always pop the used primer and resize, clean inspect each case( every one) went through the trimmer as this also cleaned the primer hole. cleaned inside of case,( brushed out)after coming out of cleaner . Inspected put in a loading tray. (GOOD ONES ONLY) If you are not sure its a good case, be safe bin it, but crush it first. Dont be tempted to load it. Dont be afraid to ask theres always someone on here will help you 2 Quote Link to post
AThomas 32 Posted April 7, 2015 Report Share Posted April 7, 2015 (edited) Consistency is the key to accuracy,what ever you do from the first case to the last should be exactly the same. Personally I full length resize,then trim accordingly with the lee zip trip lathe tool, or the simple lee hand trimner. + or - a few though i batch into seperate groups but i try and get them all the same. If you are fl re-sizing and trimming you need to keep an eye on you're brass life for wear and general condition. Fl rezising will put more strain on the brass,& stretch it more than neck sizing only, so you need to be aware of the number of reloads/resized cases you've had in a cycle,you need to measure after you've sized you're brass and if it needs trimming. Edited April 7, 2015 by AThomas 1 Quote Link to post
DeerhoundLurcherMan 997 Posted April 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2015 Thanks for the advice folks! Whats the crack with full length re-sizing and only neck sizing? My initial thoughts was that FL re-sizing was for if the brass had been used in a different rifle to the one your loading for? Am I right in thinking that the de-priming die also re-sizes the neck and a totally different die is used for FL re-sizing? Cheers! 1 Quote Link to post
AThomas 32 Posted April 7, 2015 Report Share Posted April 7, 2015 Thanks for the advice folks! Whats the crack with full length re-sizing and only neck sizing? My initial thoughts was that FL re-sizing was for if the brass had been used in a different rifle to the one your loading for? Yes,neck sizing only is rifle specific,because you've fire formed the brass,ie its already expanded to you're rifle chamber and won't go any more.Target shooters do a lot of this,it alao prolongs brass life,and some say it's slightly more accurate. Am I right in thinking that the de-priming die also re-sizes the neck and a totally different die is used for FL re-sizing? Yes & no,FL dies also deprime as well as full length re-size the whole case,neck to base. Cheers! 1 Quote Link to post
Winchester 6 Posted April 8, 2015 Report Share Posted April 8, 2015 What your getting into can be a minefield. IF i was you i would get a good reloading book for the cal your going to re-Load Norman Clark at rugby dose them for about a fiver. Most of the leg work has been done for you. Then its up to you to find head weight ,primer powder that your rifle shoots best .Do you know some one that re-loads ? If so ask them if you can learn from them. This re-loading lark can cost a lot of money to find the right combo for your rifle dies etc aint cheep a rule of thumb dont get the cheepest. RCBS are good value for money, It can cost thousands of pounds. The best, produces the best results. Its like useing a 13mil spanner on a 1/2 inch nut it will fit, but the tolorance is bigger if that explains it. Hope so lol .I had to learn from a book the add me own twist so the process was right for me. I would show you if you live close enough or try find someone in traverling distance to show you. That said it is rewarding to do . 1 Quote Link to post
charlie caller 3,654 Posted April 8, 2015 Report Share Posted April 8, 2015 It need not cost a lot though, as I said earlier, find a good accurate load that works well in your rifle and stick to it, just try to ensure you can get a ready supply of the components (easier said than done these days) I would advise you to stick to neck sizing cases fired from your rifle only, Lee collet dies are very very good and load some superb ammo and are relatively in-expensive, your brass SHOULD last a good while, I get roughly 8-10 .243 reloads out of my favourite Federal cases, I could probably get more, but as a rule bin the cases after 10, if I get that many, and trust me on the factory crimp die 1 Quote Link to post
DeerhoundLurcherMan 997 Posted April 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2015 I've just bought a second hand lee 50th anniversary kit with lyman tumbler.. And the 3 .223 dies for £90 posted.. So I'll just need a few little bits and pieces and a loading manual.. Yea I'll stick to neck sizing only as they will only be used in my rifle... I've got 200 once fired hornady cases here so I'll keep count of how many loads they get through them... And I'll get the crimp die... I'll probably need help on how to use it properly... I've heard you can over crimp.... Quote Link to post
charlie caller 3,654 Posted April 8, 2015 Report Share Posted April 8, 2015 Sounds like you are off to a good start pal, using the crimp die is easy just follow the instructions that come with it, basically you just put it in the press and adjust it with a lock nut, you can feel the crimp pressure as you apply it, just start off lightly, you can always add a little bit more, and in case your next question is, do the bullets have to have a cannelure, or crimp ring? The answer is absolutely not mate. 1 Quote Link to post
Tremo 138 Posted April 8, 2015 Report Share Posted April 8, 2015 It need not cost a lot though, as I said earlier, find a good accurate load that works well in your rifle and stick to it, just try to ensure you can get a ready supply of the components (easier said than done these days) I would advise you to stick to neck sizing cases fired from your rifle only, Lee collet dies are very very good and load some superb ammo and are relatively in-expensive, your brass SHOULD last a good while, I get roughly 8-10 .243 reloads out of my favourite Federal cases, I could probably get more, but as a rule bin the cases after 10, if I get that many, and trust me on the factory crimp die +1. Consistently getting your hands on the exact same components for your load of choice can be a ball-ache. You have two choices: 1) Either try and stockpile as much of it as you can (staying within the constraints of your ticket of course) before the source runs out. Remember, by being a handloader you can request an additional "projectile" allowance on your ticket. 2) Have a small number of recipes for using say two different types of heads and two different types of powders. This will give you four different loads that you can knock up. Of course you could take this even further and substitute the primers and also the brass if you want that level of detail. Personally I've gone with the 2 heads / 2 powders option. I haven't run out yet. 1 Quote Link to post
Winchester 6 Posted April 8, 2015 Report Share Posted April 8, 2015 You are going to crimp as well o lord that will increase pressure in your chamber be very very carefull. 1 Quote Link to post
DeerhoundLurcherMan 997 Posted April 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2015 Really appreciate all of your advice so far folks.. I live 2 mins away from a very good shop that stocks loads of powders, heads primers etc...I can hold 150 rounds on my ticket... Now with regards to finding a round that my barrel likes... How far wrong would I be if I said that I would buy say 2 different types of heads... And load say 5 of each using the same powder but with minimum amounts. The load another 5 of each head but increase powder by 0.2 each time all the way up till the max load.... See which groups best?.... Quote Link to post
Winchester 6 Posted April 8, 2015 Report Share Posted April 8, 2015 Thats how you do it pal get some digi gold scales and a powder trickler to measure the powder to the grain i found 50 grain winchester combined tec worked best for me with a 26grain load cci primes. I wouldnt crimp as it send the pressure through the roof and could cause failure of the breach, better safe than sorry. what factory round dose it like, dismantle one weigh the powder head that will give you a base line to work from good luck 1 Quote Link to post
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