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This is my first attempt at making a steel target, main fox is made from 4mm mild steel plate. And the two target points are made from 10mm manganize steel (a hard wearing abrasive resistant material) also welded some brackets on the back to recieve some threaded bar so the legs can be taken off for smaller storage. I know it's rough but chuffed for my first go and never done any welding before.

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I personally only have a .22 rimfire but I do a lot of shooting with a friend who has a .223. I work in steel stock holding and I'm led to believe that the manganize plate is very similar to the AR500 steel that bh targets use on their products. The .223 will more than likely go through the 4mm mild steel even with the ballistic tip, but the target points should more than handle it. All material was from waste at work so hasn't cost me a penny.

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Very nice work bud!..you should be fine with the .22lr but if using a cf I would of had cut out holes with a removable patch in the holes of lighter material as it will be replaceable, sorry if I seem to pick holes (no pun intended ) as I'm sure I wouldn't be capable of doing a job as good myself.

Anyways keep us posted with some of the after effects and how it holds up.

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223 ballistic will go right through that, especially with ballistics.

I had used rail sleepers as back stops until i went and got one of the other BH Targets.

Careful with the fixed mount as if that slopes in any direction other than down, you could get a ricochet.

Mine is now a swinger with some rope making sure that it angles down a bit.

 

Watch out for any 22's coming pinging back to you.

Not had one myself but heard about more than one that went close at 50 yards distance to target and came pinging back.

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Nice job, have fun!

Centrefires however will go straight through leaving a 'raggy' oversize hole, 22 rimfires are fine, just a small dent and the paint removed.

17 hmr & 22 wmr will 'probably' make craters 1/8" deep with a funny points in the centre from the hollow point.

I had some 18" square 4mm mild steel plates, I painted a couple white and stuck the corner into the soft mud, at 100 my 22.250 hit just went

'clink' and didn't even knock it over, but made 1/2" copper plated holes.

My latest effort is two 20mm thick steel plates about 8" square, I drilled 2 clearance holes near the top corners then attached a chain with shackles

then hang these from a 'disused' roadside sign frame, better just massive craters, sometimes the whole plate spins right over the top.

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Nice work. Keep the .223 off the mild though. It goes through 1/4 plate without any problem.

 

Here's why mild steel and CF don't mix (this is .223), at the end you can see this is way thicker than 4mm (if quarter plate then its 6mm obviously):

 

Edited by Alsone
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I knew the .223 would go through the mild steel which was they I used the 10mm manganize as target points, it's going to be used as a range testing exercise as opposed to zeroing so rifle should be on. And the fact it's cost me nothing means I'm not going to be upset if it ends up with a hole or two in it haha. Working in steel I get loads of pieces to use as targets and have seen what the .223 does to mild steel. Managed to get hold of a piece of 60mm plate which weighed a (metaphorical) ton that did the job. But I take on board the fixed legs point and will amend that in model 2 when the need arises.

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