Recall And Punishment

[Benny31 1]

I am having recall problems with my saluki cross, she has perfect recall in house and garden but,

the problems start in the field when there are squirrels and game about.

 

So if she thinks there is something she may be able to chase/catch she will ignore me trying to recall her until she is ready to come back in her own time. Sometimes she comes back in a minute or so sometimes its much longer or at worse I have to wait till she is so worn out that I can then catch her! Far from ideal....

 

When she does finally come to me I am not sure weather I should be praising and giving a treat to reinforce the fact she did come to me eventually albeit in her own time or somehow punishing/reprimanding her for not returning immediately?

 

Any suggestions for improving recall in the field would also be much appreciated.

 

Thanks in advance

[bird 9,872]

well the last thing you ever do is hit a dog coming back to you, the dog wont come back if it thinks your going to hit it. it prob better to ask people with salukixs how they get the best out of this type of x, I my self couldn't put up with dog with a temp like that , that's why I never have that type of x. ive had colliexs and gsdxs and bullxs , all very biddable type lurchers prob took the easy way out lol, but better to do that than fook up a possible good dog long term

[obi2 239]

With a saluki X I would always praise and make a fuss of when they return. I found what worked for me was to never scold them when they are doing what you want at the end of the day. Go back to the basics again and go out with treats n biscuits with you. When you get a quick return give a treat and plenty praise and make a massive fuss. If it is taking longer than you want then on the return cut out the treat and just give praise. If it is really long then just a pat on the head would do. Try walking away in the opposite direction when calling her aswell. Just a bit of advice that works for me mate. Atb

[bird 9,872]

With a saluki X I would always praise and make a fuss of when they return. I found what worked for me was to never scold them when they are doing what you want at the end of the day. Go back to the basics again and go out with treats n biscuits with you. When you get a quick return give a treat and plenty praise and make a massive fuss. If it is taking longer than you want then on the return cut out the treat and just give praise. If it is really long then just a pat on the head would do. Try walking away in the opposite direction when calling her aswell. Just a bit of advice that works for me mate. Atb

good advice , I always train with treat bit (chicken /ham ) I don't have to as my dogs are biddable , would do all training without no prob. my 1x colliexgrey Bryn as never been a dog to piss off or anything like that even as a pup, but my 1x Alsatian x grey deff different animal , he ok norm type walks he is obedient .But when in hunting mode he goes deaf lol , last time walking him in the day with Bryn , when there bumped into some wooden tops , Bryn came back in about 6-7 mins not young Buck he was away 1 fookin hour got him back in the end , but no point in shouting or hitting him , he full on type dog got different mind-set to my colliex and that's the way he is, suppose really I like dog who gives 110% , and should imagine saluki xs are similar temp when in the hunting mode

[DanRaistrick 53]

Ive had a similar problem with my Saluki cross, read my 'Saluki X Problem' thread, some good replies and advice from people who know what they're talking about.

 

Hope you get the problem sorted

[desertbred 5,490]

A good saluki or saluki x should be that prey orientated you may as well try to plat fog as get it to come back once its spotted a moving target no one into hunting would expect anything else other than chasing and either loosing or catching the prey. Well schooled dogs once the chase is over will return to its owner the ones that hunt up and stand 25 yards away should be considered as work in progress, The aim is to get the dog back on the slip without the whistling and shouting which if you are out on non permission is needed. Salukis and x,s contrary to a lot of the old wives tales are intelligent dogs and masters of the capture of running things you will with the right guidance and patience get a very biddable dog. When they do return to the slip always give praise try to find another run then they realise they are not prisoners once on the slip, I always try to get mine to come back straight on the slip this is part of the trust bond that you should establish before working the dog as they know we are looking for something else to chase. If they have grasped that and have had plenty of running time they are happy when its home time. It all takes understanding your dog time and patience,

Edited September 30, 2014 by desertbred

[Bosun11 537]

I'd totally agree with Desertbred on prey drive and the other stuff on his post.

 

I was always told never recall a puppy if it is busy with something, give it a minute more, move or adjust your position and wait till the pup looks at you, recall and praise or/and reward.

In doing this the puppy will never 'learn' to deaf you out, as dogs can do, it comes because it wants to and it will forever associate a recall with praise or reward. All good...!

 

Take your youngster out to somewhere where it can roam safe, sniff and lark about. Take your time and choose the moment with recall's, soon as you think you 'can' call the dog back and it will do so, call.

Again with ten ton of praise on return. Don't worry, or worst of all loose your rag, if you don't get the moment right, time, patience and try it again. Maybe this time crouch or with a step or two in the opposite direction. Sudden change of shape can make a dog curious as to what just happened and it will come and investigate. And make sure you call 'Happy'...

 

So when your dogs back with you maybe put it back on a lead for a few yards walk, again with praise, then off again, waiting for the right moment to recall. Make it almost a game.

Move the training to countryside fields but choose them carefully, scent on the ground yes but you don't want the dog to put sommat up whilst training.

 

Your dog in time will realise that being called back is a good thing, even when on the lead, loads of praise and maybe off again in a min, no need for it to deaf you out.

 

It's a way of doing things thats always worked for me. I hope it makes sense?

 

Best of luck.

[zandy01 3,575]

Bosun and desertbred, I have to say these replies make so much sense, excellent explanation and very informative to which I think will help make people understand their dogs/pups and help with recall...

 

Sound advice which I myself will take on board

[Benny31 1]

Brilliant, makes perfect sense, thanks for all the replies.

 

 

I forgot to mention she is a rescue and I've had her about 5 months now, she's about 1 year old.

If I had known Saluki crosses can be so much hassle I may have got a different cross, but as was said earlier her prey drive is really high and im sure she will turn out to be a great dog. She was completely untrained in any way when I got her (she thought it was acceptable to eat out of pots and pans ready to go on the cooker) when I think back she has came on a long way since then.

 

Plenty more time and effort on my part then.

[3 Turns 326]

ALRIGHT PAL.

HAD THIS PROBLEM BEFORE.

THE WAY I CURE IT IS BY GIVING THE DOG A GUILT TRIP .

ON ITS RETURN I GIVE THEM A HEAVY BOLLOCKING AND THEN SHUN THE DOG AWAY AND CARRY ON ABOUT MY BUISNESS IGNORING THE PERPITRAITOR.

WHILST KEEPING TABS N REPRIMANDING IT FOR THE SLIGHTEST THING 9 TIMES OUT OF TEN THE DOG SCREWS THE HEAD FOR THE REST OF THE OUTING.

IVE KNOWN GUYS WHO DO THIS FROM THE GET GO ON DAYS OUT SO THE DOGS BEHAVE ALL DAY.

[planete 120]

Agree totally with bosun and desert bred. You can also hide from a too independent young dog so he thinks he has lost you when he returns, it usually makes them keener to keep tabs on you and means you do not need to call them as much. Providing of course you have a really good bond with the dog and you have made him believe the best place in the world to be is with you.

[Neal 1,862]

I completely agree with the above advice.

 

I always prefer not to give food treats but have to admit that, on occasion and with certain pups, it's the only thing that's worked. However, I always endeavour to cut them out as soon as possible.

 

With regards to turning the recall into a positive experience...I've had several times when it's taken ages of cajoling in my best cbeebies presenters voice to get a pup to come to me and then thought, "I've got to let it go again else it'll take even longer next time." I remember having to do this with my first kelpie bitch on her first trip outside...it was at the local park, and had just started raining on Christmas day and we had a turkey in the oven at home. After a quarter of an hour struggle to entice her in, my girlfriend was gobsmacked when I released her for another run round but I knew it had to be done or she'd have taken even longer next time.

[bracken boy 584]

little fooookers they can be..i found my voice was good enough between 50 yards or so but beyond that if somethink popped up and 60 yards out them booom hes gone, i tried the hard line and it dosnt work, its all about finding what works with the dog your working..

Edited October 6, 2014 by bracken boy

[Benny31 1]

Well im still persevering with her and am determined not to give up on her.

 

Just re-read previous posts and Im going to go right back to basics with her this weekend, following the methods desert bred and bossun mentioned.

 

The thing is ive got the permission to take her out on but with the way her recall is at the moment I know I would probably end up losing her.

She comes to work with me every day and I would say we have built up a good bond, its just when she feels she can catch something her instinct takes over and ignores me.

[Casso 1,261]

If you worry to much about recall , you are setting yourself up for failure, with pups I try to made the pup believe that coming back and standing beside are the key to everything without the hassle of recall,

From the puppy stage out walking if the pup ventures too far ahead I stop dead in my tracks , my goal is to get the pup to figure out that standing on my right side beside me is the way to get the whole thing moving again because that's what it wants more than anything , it craves group interaction and motion is right up there,

 

It can take a while for the pup to figure it out , I wait til the pup is beside me , give it a "good boy" and on we go , what your trying to reinforce is that coming back is the way to go forward , learning from the inside out ,

To many lads trying to get pups hunting before the pup knows the fundementals ,

If you make a pup believes his behaviour controls you, you'll have this dog game sussed, best of luck

 

Just to add this is an exercise I would do on a regular basics daily until I see the pup has figured it out and comes to me , stands and looks up as much as to say "get a move on there I've done the behaviour '

Edited October 23, 2014 by Casso