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Advice Needed Please.


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Dan we do well with a dimmer on the lamp we turn it right down so we can still see what is going on

Also remember when it's a big moon they can see you and won't come

Also we use an amber filter don't know if it's because it's the same colour as street lights but it seems to be the best filter

Without a doubt the dimmer as helped a lot

On top of all that we use a foxpro if they don't like one call we find another

Mouse .rat .hare.pheasant.chicken distress that's a good one

I lamp for ratmanwan he shoots a 250 and is spot on

Don't want to rub it in but we go out once a week

And average 2 a night with this set up

Hope your luck changes

We have land just off junction 1 of the m54 you should come down and have a night with us swap some ideas

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Check the wind direction on the weather forecast before you go out and approach from downwind always. I have an old vicks sinex bottle filled with talc which i can continually check wind direction wit

You might consider wind dirrection first thing you should do or any 1 serious about fox control . And to know your land very well

Don't call them unless you need to, you have a gun that you are confident with to over 200 yards!! You can use that to your advantage if you know the land well. Driving the fields you will cover lots

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Some foxes just will not come in any closer Dan, they haven't survived for this long because they come in to a squeak from a recording,

 

If the Fox was sitting pretty at 220 yards for three minutes, that's a luxury length of time and for a .22-250 is bread and butter,

 

Sometimes a fox will walk away from the lamp and only look back standing still for two or three seconds, just need to be ready to take that shot when the opportunity arises,

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Cheers guys. Couldn't take that shot SS as he was on top of a hill. I have preety much all the permissions surrounding whixall moss in Shropshire its about a 10 square mile protected moss and woodland the place is thriving with fox and rumours of muntjac and other deer species ;)

Edited by shropshire dan
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Learn to squeak by hand as well, and get another type of caller, I liken it to trout fishing, fish with a black fly on friday, and catch with it, use the same fly on saturday, and the fish wont look at it, well its the same with foxes, what works one day, will not work the next, are you using a white light? If so try a filter red or amber, dont be afraid to change call when he is coming, if you have an electric caller, (or get one) try calling by hand at the same time, sometimes it overloads their senses, and even shy foxes will come in, and full moon is pretty damn useless, keep at it, you will get one soon :yes:

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Check the wind direction on the weather forecast before you go out and approach from downwind always. I have an old vicks sinex bottle filled with talc which i can continually check wind direction with.

 

Foxes can be difficult at this time of year to call as there is an abundance of food available and a lot of them won't respond to a distress call if not hungry. I use a foxpro and have most success using fox calls, if a fox starts to "talk" to the caller you can generally bring it close enough. I use night vision exclusively when out for fox because

(A) It doesn't spook lamp shy foxes which some clown has shot at and missed.

( B) It doesn't attract unwanted attention from people.

 

Foxes will see movement before anything else at a great distance aswell, moving about on a big moon is not good unless they are immature or totally unmolested foxes, if they have been in contact with humans before that will diminish your chances dramatically. Try baiting an area for several nights and when the bait is going regularly wait for them with your back against a hedge. I also use a camo net on poles in front of me whilst doing this so that any movement i make is masked from the fox.

 

In the absense of n/v equipment use a filter on your lamp and when you pick a fox up with it don't shine the light directly on it, keep it to one side or just above/below. This helps not to spook the fox, when you are ready for a shot you can move the light a little closer.

 

Don't call unless you have to, someone else may have called the fox and missed it and it will associate the call with danger. I never call whilst waiting over a baited area there is no need, all you are doing is telling a fox you are there. In different areas different methods work best you will need to find the one for you.

 

After i had killed all the foxes in my area it created a vacuum for others to move in and a great deal of these had survived the pick up truck and lamp brigade so where very lamp shy indeed. This necessitated developing methods to work round it which is why i went the n/v route.

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Good info ianm, I'm out with my nitesite tonight for a big session myself, having come close a few times I'm hoping this gives a better advantage as its not easy doing all this on your own but ever more satisfying when everything goes right.

 

Good luck with it, what i/r are you using?

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Its a nitesite wolf, are you suggesting I use an additional IR which doesn't come with it?

 

I am not familiar with that system but i presume it is a digital system that attaches to your scope with a monitor to view through. In any case all digital requires i/r and usually the more the merrier.If the system doesn't come with an integral i/r which are nearly always crap to be honest due to the eye safe legislation then you will need an additional i'r. I use a nightmaster xsearcher on my n750 and a nightmaster 800 on my spotter, what spotter are you using?

 

 

Just done some digging and the wolf appears to have an integral i/r so you should be ok.

Edited by ianm
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