Joe1888 672 Posted August 24, 2014 Report Share Posted August 24, 2014 this has probaly been done to death, go easy on me lol am looking to give this a try, theres some land with a few and the farmer would have no problem me giving it a try, see how i get on. ive not looked into it alot, hence this post.. looking for some advice from experience mole trappers where to start, any advice etc you think would be helpfull. looking to get started cheap as possible and see how it goes. cheers Quote Link to post
perthshire keeper 1,239 Posted August 24, 2014 Report Share Posted August 24, 2014 first things is...dont buy cheap as possible traps,its unfair to take a 1990 skoda to le-mans isnt it? same with mole traps use the best you can find..they cost a bit but judt dont buy as many 1 Quote Link to post
Joe1888 672 Posted August 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2014 thanks mate, what ones would you recommend, i was already looking at the cheap ebay ones...cheers Quote Link to post
nod 285 Posted August 24, 2014 Report Share Posted August 24, 2014 For tunnel traps you can't go wrong with flatpack or bethal rhodes 1 Quote Link to post
morton 5,368 Posted August 24, 2014 Report Share Posted August 24, 2014 this has probaly been done to death, go easy on me lol am looking to give this a try, theres some land with a few and the farmer would have no problem me giving it a try, see how i get on. ive not looked into it alot, hence this post.. looking for some advice from experience mole trappers where to start, any advice etc you think would be helpfull. looking to get started cheap as possible and see how it goes. cheers The cheapest way to do it is to borrow your dads spade and dig them up,or buy half a dozen decent traps,do plenty of research,then start small and build with experience. Quote Link to post
Joe1888 672 Posted August 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2014 (edited) this has probaly been done to death, go easy on me lol am looking to give this a try, theres some land with a few and the farmer would have no problem me giving it a try, see how i get on. ive not looked into it alot, hence this post.. looking for some advice from experience mole trappers where to start, any advice etc you think would be helpfull. looking to get started cheap as possible and see how it goes. cheers The cheapest way to do it is to borrow your dads spade and dig them up,or buy half a dozen decent traps,do plenty of research,then start small and build with experience. i would, but id need to borrow a spade to dig him up first to ask!! not sure what reply ill get after 15 year ok mate cheers Edited August 24, 2014 by Joe1888 2 Quote Link to post
Rowan 308 Posted August 25, 2014 Report Share Posted August 25, 2014 The flat pack company , buy tunnel traps and a couple of talpex, probe and border spade , oh and knee pads if your an owld boy like me. 1 Quote Link to post
Dirksdonuts 79 Posted August 25, 2014 Report Share Posted August 25, 2014 Yes The Flatpack company and their traps every time for me Quote Link to post
budgie123 163 Posted August 25, 2014 Report Share Posted August 25, 2014 Flat Pack mole traps. Probe and decent spade and trowel. Get the mole trapping dvd from fouteen acre by gw walton. i have been trapping moles for a number of years but the info on the dvd has upped my catch rate significantly. Give it a go and you will be surprised how easy it becomes. Its no rocket science as some try to portray. Everyone starts somewhere putting the probe in 20 times to find a run but gradually over time looking at the hills and depressions in the land will lead to finding runs much quicker. The only time I have had problems with the flat pack traps was on a golf course that got waterlogged and talpex traps sorted this. 1 Quote Link to post
unclepesta 101 Posted August 26, 2014 Report Share Posted August 26, 2014 talpex originals are ready to go out the box.. some duffus types need a few tweeks but a favoured trap by many.. pro,s start tweeking trigger lightness,,shaping the kill wires ect ect spring strength is a factor for many.. the talpex is strong i have only had a couple of stone catches to stop them working this is over hundreds of sets.. you can use talpex in soft or hard soils they work upright or on a 45 angle..i usually set the 45 so when he comes through he paddles the trigger..on collapsed sets or deep sets i go upright.. on a collapsed set its nice to have the trigger set against firmer soil so as he pushes through dirt the trigger is quickly activated.. scissor traps are great to learn on.. it makes you learn the sets better in my opinion.. weaker springs require a more diligent set. its good to be able to utilize different traps. take your time on each set.. dont rush just take note of your sets you will soon work out.. just carefully access the run and change as little as possible..no big cavitys he will just back fill or cap the hole.. sometimes you still catch them but if you want to know then set the trap without destroying or opening it up to much..some folks dig a square out try it and ten try the gentle approach..set in with perfume free or fuel free hands no need for gloves unless you dont like muddy hands i even rub my hands and trap in the tops soil before starting..remember soils change from area to area. gloves area clean and probably safer. i use to leave the dead mole in the tunnel but i now take em cos i had a badger dig out a lawn for one.we live and learn.. thing is to keeps it simple and clean. trapping is the best control in my opinion you know exactly where your at with it.. i rarely use gas no need besides most soil types are not that good for gas and wet weather days are not great for gas...if you work in rain place leaves down to support the soil covering the trap it sometimes helps it hold out and not get washed in so quick. i just did a 'little' job and i used rhododendron leaves to hold up long enough to catch the mole.its been raining 24 hrs here the border are like mud when you break into them..heavy.. the good side is you can squish disks of mud to put on the leaf. prepare to get wet knees or pad up.. i rarley pad up im sat with wet knee overalls now.. i always loose accessories like gloves ect all the best to the other mole trappers on here it might be a better mole year than wasps. take care im having to go monochrome mr teapot for now.. it still dont upload everything i will try photobucket. 1 Quote Link to post
sprockerjay 74 Posted August 27, 2014 Report Share Posted August 27, 2014 if you are doing a house and you have to put a trap in the lawn do you have to try and put the trap site back to as perfect as possible cheers aidy Quote Link to post
3175darren 1,101 Posted August 27, 2014 Report Share Posted August 27, 2014 Aidy its always best, to leave as little sign you were there as possible, but the truth is the mess the mole made in the first place is bad enough,when you lift your traps at the end just make sure you fill the hole to the top and most are fine with that,but its best to turn the sod over when you place a trap, and keep it to one side so its ready to go straight back in its place,when you are done,at the end of the day if you can leave it neat and tidy,they will probably ask you back knowing your standard of work is high,its just the same when digging rabbits, Quote Link to post
MR TEA POT 1,287 Posted August 27, 2014 Report Share Posted August 27, 2014 talpex originals are ready to go out the box.. some duffus types need a few tweeks but a favoured trap by many.. pro,s start tweeking trigger lightness,,shaping the kill wires ect ect spring strength is a factor for many.. the talpex is strong i have only had a couple of stone catches to stop them working this is over hundreds of sets.. you can use talpex in soft or hard soils they work upright or on a 45 angle..i usually set the 45 so when he comes through he paddles the trigger..on collapsed sets or deep sets i go upright.. on a collapsed set its nice to have the trigger set against firmer soil so as he pushes through dirt the trigger is quickly activated.. scissor traps are great to learn on.. it makes you learn the sets better in my opinion.. weaker springs require a more diligent set. its good to be able to utilize different traps. take your time on each set.. dont rush just take note of your sets you will soon work out.. just carefully access the run and change as little as possible..no big cavitys he will just back fill or cap the hole.. sometimes you still catch them but if you want to know then set the trap without destroying or opening it up to much..some folks dig a square out try it and ten try the gentle approach..set in with perfume free or fuel free hands no need for gloves unless you dont im having to go monochrome mr teapot for now.. it still dont upload everything i will try photobucket. Pm sent Quote Link to post
sprockerjay 74 Posted August 27, 2014 Report Share Posted August 27, 2014 Cheers for the reply darren because when iv done them on farm land you can always see whare the trap has been no matter how carefully I tidey up cheers aidy Quote Link to post
unclepesta 101 Posted August 28, 2014 Report Share Posted August 28, 2014 if you are doing a house and you have to put a trap in the lawn do you have to try and put the trap site back to as perfect as possible cheers aidy im giving it all away.. try the hill Quote Link to post
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