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I've got a Hancocks pup too and without a doubt it has been the hardest dog to housetrain I've ever had.

The only advise I can give is do what I did, and watch him like a hawk and let him out every 15 mins or so, whether you think he wants to go or not. It took me the best part of 6 weeks solid doing this,before he was finally housetrained but touch wood he's been fine for more than a month now.

I've had a big advantage in that I retired at Christmas, so was able to be with him 24/7, God knows how I would have done it if I'd been at work.

Other than that he's been a great pup so far, none of the nerves or socialising problems you hear about with Hancock dogs, and very biddable.

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I find if you cut the thumbs off four rubber gloves and put them on the pup's feet. Next attach wires to the metal base of the dog cage (be sure to insulate the base from the floor or the rest of the cage) turn on the electricity and wait for the pup to piss :thumbs:

 

Eventually the pup will get the message :yes:

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Thats the only way, i was retired also, had my last two pups trained in two weeks, you need to take a couple of weeks off work, its a hassle, but the best way.My pups were easy to train, never had a Hancock.

I'm the same mate, every pup I've ever had was as near as dammit trained in a fortnight.

I think Skycat is right, because they have no proper bed they go wherever they want and never learn from the off to go to a certain area.

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Skycat you really are a wealth of information never thought of a dog eating it's own crap because it smelt simalar to complete lol I always thought it was a behaviour thing being scared to crap because you shout at them so they eat the evidence are Hancocks really fed like that ? I was considering one from them one day might not bother if that's how there treated I wouldn't feed my ferrets like that

Some people do say that they eat their own faeces in order to 'hide' the evidence: this could happen if the dog is constantly scolded for crapping in the house, which is why it is so important to praise the dog when it does it in the right place: outside, and say nothing when you find and clear up crap from in the house.

 

Of course some pups also learn to do it if they are getting an inadequate diet: once again, poor quality cereal based foods often cause this as the dog is trying to get more nutrition into its body as canines are not very good at extracting all the nutrients from cereals, so they eat it again, now digested, much in the same way as some dogs eat the faeces of other animals. This might be natural enough if they're trying to get vitamins and minerals from herbivores like sheep and cows, but eating predator shit is unusual.

 

Boredom can also be a cause. The only pups I've had that have done this have been pups that I've brought in from outside and they were all lacking in some way: bad diet, not enough room to crap well away from the play/bed area, or not enough food (more or less starving), or nothing else to play with.

 

Dogs explore the world with their mouths and noses from a very early age, so scent has a large part to do with it as well.

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Cheers skycat thank for the good advice mate and all I will keep trying [BANNED TEXT] I'm doing seems to be working slowly but getting there if he keeps eating his shite I'll put him on a raw diet Sally hancock said to keep him on 25% protein dry nuggets because he needs that?but I'm willing to try him on any thing that works

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'dry nuggets', or complete dog food, can be as good or as bad as the ingredients it contains. Good complete food costs a fortune: think upwards of £40 per 15 kilo bag. Anything cheaper will be cereal based and often contains masses of artificial preservatives, colouring and flavouring. If you consider that a dog needs a good source of protein in the form of meat, fish etc, and is designed to process natural foods rather than baked, excessively heat-treated man-made products which are mostly cereals, will do less good than the the real thing. After all, we do better on fresh ingredients than on diet of pot noodles and fast food.

 

Don't worry about the protein content: this is just a scam drawn up by dog food companies to get us to pay stupid amounts for food. Think in terms of the bulk of the pup's diet being made up of meat/carcases etc and you won't go far wrong. Did I offer to send you the chapter on feeding? If not, then pm me your email address and I'll send it to you: it explains how and why I feed raw, and also what to feed, in detail.

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i dont think any dog is smart enough to eat its dung in order to hide it, i agree that a lot of artificial flavourings etc dont break down in the dogs gut and are therefore still attractive after being passed. i do think though that with most dung eaters its a behavioural issue rather than being flavour related(!) and you need to look closely at whether the pup is being stimulated enough mentally, including the time when you are not there ( a pup which has had a lot of running around and is then given a good big meaty bone to chew in its cage is much less likely to suffer mental issues and is also a lot quieter and more settled).

 

as for protein levels, a raw meat/fish diet will provide plenty of protein, and it will also be in a more digestible form (some feeds state 2available" protein levels, these are the proteins which a particular animal is able to digest, as opposed to those which arent digestible and so just pass through). change the pup to a meat diet slowly over a week or so, give cooked meat at first and gradually cook it for less time until it will eat raw without getting the runs

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