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Pillar And Glass Bedding Rimfires!!!


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i'm just wondering if there is any point in bedding rimfires?

obviously for target shooting the stock will have this done, but for everyday hunting would it actually help?

I would think it was over the top but others might disagree,most rimfires are acurate enought,where does it end,get a reasonable scope on, decent amunition once you find the right amunition stick to that brand, and practice you will soon be confident,dont over think it,and if you want one hole perfection, then tweek things as you go along,

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i'm just wondering if there is any point in bedding rimfires?

obviously for target shooting the stock will have this done, but for everyday hunting would it actually help?

I think you will find VERY few Target rifles will come bedded, and if anyone buys a Target rifle and finds it need bedding they should take it back, not spend time bedding it.

 

There is only ever any need to go down this route if your rimfire is causing an issue, and very few do for field or target use! :thumbs:

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My 17hmr cz was giving me grief - barrel was touching the stock down one side, took it apart, sanded it down, varnish, put it back together. Its now shooting 1 hole groups out to 100yds.

 

Wouldn't have bothered otherwise, but glad I did because it was driving me insane.

 

Thanks

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Free floating a barrel is totally different. And its a good idea for any rifle, particularly if its wood stock.

It can physically move the barrel, but by simply touching the barrel sometimes and not at other times, it will effect the harmonics of the barrel.

For accurate shooting consistency is key

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  • 4 weeks later...

My 17hmr cz was giving me grief - barrel was touching the stock down one side, took it apart, sanded it down, varnish, put it back together. Its now shooting 1 hole groups out to 100yds.

 

Wouldn't have bothered otherwise, but glad I did because it was driving me insane.

 

Thanks

 

How did you go about sanding it out mate ? My CZ 243 is a little tight on one side and I was thinking of doing similar ...

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Easy as pie.

 

Took the three screws out of the trigger guard piece which lets the wood become free from the metal, put the metal safe to one side. By metal I mean barell/action/scope anything else like mod unless you choose to take mod off - I would to make it lighter.

 

I also got a mate to help hold stuff in place and did it close to the table - don't want to go dropping the barell etc.

 

Then look at the stock, the channel where the barell sits, get fine sandpaper and get sanding, did mine by hand, all the way along the barell channel. It's hard to tell how much is coming off, just put it all back together and see.

 

I then bought wood varnish clear for mine. Made sure to take off another few strokes worth to compensate for the varnish that I'd be putting back on.

 

I applied the varnish carefully with a cheepy kiddies small/thin paintbrush, applied 4 thin coats in total, 18 hours apart, new brush every coat. Took care to varnish carefully and smoothly so I didn't have to sand the varnish as sanding it would make it porous and that wasn't what I wanted.

 

Thanks

Edited by let'sshoot
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Hi:

No need to bed a rimfire (but you can if you want).

They don't recoil or get anything like hot enough.

The posts regarding barrel touching the 'wood' and free floating is valid, but nothing to do with bedding.

Bedding won't do any harm, just no good either.

AndyF

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