cybertrix 8 Posted December 28, 2013 Report Share Posted December 28, 2013 I bought a fairly old TX2oo in .22 last year and I have been trying to find the time to get it done up. I have replaced the Hawke scope that it came with for a Bushnell and I have replaced the safety ratchet assembly. I am in two minds weather to have a custom stock made for it. My problem is when I bought it the previous owner had a bipod fastened to the fore end with wood screws which have left two holes. I can either take the stock off and refurbish it or have a custom stock made. Does anyone have a TX 200 with a custom stock, if so does it add any weight? Has anyone refurbished their TX 200 stock and what did it come up like? I am not frightened about doing the work and to be honest I think I could plug the holes and refinish the stock without it looking too bad. Any advice would be most welcome. Many thanks 1 Quote Link to post
risingfriend 1,042 Posted December 28, 2013 Report Share Posted December 28, 2013 Refurb would be fine if the damage is cosmetic mate with so tlc etc if you pm marksman on here he did a complete refurb on a tx Quote Link to post
slave 33 Posted December 28, 2013 Report Share Posted December 28, 2013 Does anyone have a TX 200 with a custom stock, if so does it add any weight? Has anyone refurbished their TX 200 stock and what did it come up like? Depends on the stock material if it is teak dorrang or sono kembang it is a lot heavier than walnut but on the plus side it deadens the firing cycle. Refurbishing is a bit of a minefeild if you have to bleach the stock to remove stains this can take some time but it depends how bad the stock is. Quote Link to post
cybertrix 8 Posted December 29, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 29, 2013 Thanks for that, the stock is not too bad, the chequering needs cleaning quite badly and there are a couple of deepish scratches as well as the holes. Quote Link to post
valboskie 39 Posted December 30, 2013 Report Share Posted December 30, 2013 If its a beech stock use a gel stain it gives a very even colour. They are so easy to use just cover the stock in a liberal coating of stainleave for 5 minutes then wipe off the excess stain if you want it darker just repeat. Its so easy. http://www.finishsupply.com/OxalicAcid.html You can use this to bleech your stock and remove any stain or colour or water stains. Here is a stock a guy added a piece to give his tx200 stock more depth without adding a hamster He stripped bleached and stained here are some pictures 1 Quote Link to post
valboskie 39 Posted December 30, 2013 Report Share Posted December 30, 2013 (edited) Next stage as you can see the oxalic acid has matched the two pieces of beech. Edited December 30, 2013 by valboskie 1 Quote Link to post
valboskie 39 Posted December 30, 2013 Report Share Posted December 30, 2013 Next stage he glued the pieces together Quote Link to post
valboskie 39 Posted December 30, 2013 Report Share Posted December 30, 2013 The finished tx200 I think looks brilliant and very nicely finished 4 Quote Link to post
Mister Gain 1,764 Posted December 30, 2013 Report Share Posted December 30, 2013 Excellent job Quote Link to post
valboskie 39 Posted December 30, 2013 Report Share Posted December 30, 2013 It could save the op from buying a new stock. The products needed are not to expensive so he could save money and have the pleasure Of doing the work himself. Atb David Quote Link to post
risingfriend 1,042 Posted December 30, 2013 Report Share Posted December 30, 2013 The finished tx200 I think looks brilliant and very nicely finished Looks cracking that. great bit of work Quote Link to post
thursodog 353 Posted December 31, 2013 Report Share Posted December 31, 2013 Absolutely STUNNING! I'd love to learn how to get a finish that good. C Quote Link to post
valboskie 39 Posted December 31, 2013 Report Share Posted December 31, 2013 Once the stain had dried, I left it for a few days to be sure before a light sanding, and the rest is just the normal Tru-oil finish, going slow and being patient to build up the layers with light sanding in between.Finish on this one was using a car cutting polish (Farecla) to get it mirror, or you can go matt or semi matt by using other compounds or superfine scotchbrite...That's why I like tru-oil as it gives you a tough finish with options. This is the products the guy used to get the finish uding the cutting polish was a good idea To smooth every thing out. Quote Link to post
valboskie 39 Posted December 31, 2013 Report Share Posted December 31, 2013 Once the stain had dried, I left it for a few days to be sure before a light sanding, and the rest is just the normal Tru-oil finish, going slow and being patient to build up the layers with light sanding in between.Finish on this one was using a car cutting polish (Farecla) to get it mirror, or you can go matt or semi matt by using other compounds or superfine scotchbrite...That's why I like tru-oil as it gives you a tough finish with options. This is the products the guy used to get the finish uding the cutting polish was a good idea To smooth every thing out. Quote Link to post
valboskie 39 Posted December 31, 2013 Report Share Posted December 31, 2013 Sorry double post on my phone. Quote Link to post
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.