bullx100% 681 Posted December 27, 2013 Report Share Posted December 27, 2013 After a it of info on tying in the bagging to the head and foot lines..which way is the best way to do this on a quickset....should I put one selveged mesh in the grommet loop befor putting in a clove hitch on the top and bottom lines or should I tie the bagging in to the lines with a strand of nylon.......also does the bagging need be tied in on the top and bottom or just the top......cheers bx1 Quote Link to post
Tiercel 6,986 Posted December 27, 2013 Report Share Posted December 27, 2013 (edited) With a quick set it does not really matter which method you use. As long as the mesh is held tight to the pole then you should not have any problems. What I would do is mark where you want to place the poles on the net by tying bits of string to the meshes top and bottom, so when you come to set it up it is ready for you. Just remember that with a 41/4 mesh there are 17 meshes to a yard so if you want your poles at six yard intervals then you multiply 17 x 6 then add your marker every 102 meshes. TC Edited December 27, 2013 by tiercel 1 Quote Link to post
bullx100% 681 Posted December 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 27, 2013 Cheers tc Quote Link to post
Country Joe 1,411 Posted December 27, 2013 Report Share Posted December 27, 2013 If you are using the basket system, have a look at the way Lakelandratcher gathers the quick set up, on the video thats on here, better not tied in, I have tied the bagging in on a traditional, as you pick up different, with a quickset I wouldn't. none of mine or LCs are tied in, and if using them for ferreting it just takes a min to pull the net to sort the bagging. Im sure LC will explain better than me. Quote Link to post
NELS0N 457 Posted December 27, 2013 Report Share Posted December 27, 2013 I always add a mesh into the clove hitch when im rigging a quickset, if your using 4 1/4" mesh then count 85 meshes and measure out 5 yards on your running lines and tie into your grommet or bands. if your setting at 6 yard centres then do as Tiercel says and count 102 meshes to every 6 yard. Quote Link to post
Country Joe 1,411 Posted December 27, 2013 Report Share Posted December 27, 2013 Sorry my post is wrong, I thought you were meaning tying in the bagging once the poles were on. Quote Link to post
bullx100% 681 Posted December 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 27, 2013 Cheers men Quote Link to post
bullx100% 681 Posted December 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 27, 2013 so basically like shown her but adding a selvedge mesh into the gromet on top and bottom of the poles Quote Link to post
lifelong cumbrian 1,826 Posted December 27, 2013 Report Share Posted December 27, 2013 Sorry I should have started my own thread but got to far on before I thought, sorry mate. I am sitting here bored so I thought I would try and explain how I put a net together, I know it is not probably the best way but I have learned myself to do it like this and it is easy and you don't need anyone's help and you end up with it done right. I just use a few pins and a marker line. Some of the pics are my daughter before anyone thinks I am a tranny with a dress on. Might help someone if you can understand my explaination. When I put mine together I use pins and do it flat on the ground. If I was doing say a 50yd net I would get my sheet netting, a new onewould probably be 200yds of netting. First thing I do is tie 2 spools of running line to the short pits of string that runs through either selvedge of the netting. I then pull them through while the netting is slack so as not to keep snagging. After that is through I attach a pole. was doing a stop net so took a few pics but it is just the same with any lenght of net. I attach the pole then fasten it to the ground with the pins. I secure the top and bottom line with a nail knot, you don't need to do this but I think it tidys it up. I then peg the pole down in the field and walk the top and bottom lines down the field. I then have a marker line mark with a loop on the end set at 5yds intervals and I slip the loop over one of the pins and walk it down the field. I then transfer the marks (black marker pen) from the marker line into the the running line that the is on the same side pin as the marker line. This marker line is marked off for 100yds of net if you want. If you doing a 50yd net I would mark off 12 marks. I then remove the marker line and and pull the top and bottom running lines together evenly about 10yds past the last mark and tie together in a loop. I then peg it down by the loop but don't stretch the lines 2 much. I then transfer the black marks from one line to the other and (you have put on one extra mark than what you need). One I have the top and bottom lines marked, it is pegged down, I go up to the end where the pole is pegged down and start to pull some netting along the lines. No need to pull to much down. I then start to tie in the bagging, I walk down and pull the netting taught and at the second black mark (10yds) I keep my finger in the mesh and walk it back to the first (5yd) mark and tie the mesh onto the black mark with bit of twine with a nail knot, I also put a bit of nail varnish on the knot to secure it better. I just do one running line at first, next going to 15yds walking it back to 10yds tie in and just keep repeating until you have tied all the bag in. On the last one I don't tie the bagging in as this is where the last pole will be. I cut the sheet netting at the last point plus the bagging. That is why you need to mark a extra 5yd mark for so you can walk your last bit of bagging back to your nets last point so you can cut the netting off to length. Once you have tied in all the bagging on the one line go to each tied in point and follow the mesh over to the other running line and tie it in to the black mark with the nail knot. You will notice that you cannot tie it in exactly on the correct mesh it would have to the next either side. You carry on right down the net then all the bagging is tied in on both lines. I then pull the excess netting down the running line out of the way. I then cut the running lines about 6" past the last black mark. I usually then tie another pole on the 2 running lines for next time I do one, then it is ready first pole on mesh through running lines on the spools of running line, ready to do the same process again. Back to the long net, I then thread the pole through the mesh and attach the grommets to the pole same as the other end and your last section has the 100% bagging in like the rest. This is just my own opinion but I like to tape all the meshes on the pole and find it easiest to do in the horizontal when the first pole is still pegged down. I then tape all the meshes, transfer the pins to the other pole and repeat. All that needs to be done now is attaching all the other poles. I then place the first pole (bunt end in ground) in the ground vertical, then push in the last pole (blunt end point stick in the air so watch your eyes bending over), I don't pull the netting taught but have a fair bit of slack in it so you can do the clove hitches. I then slip the grommets down the poles to roughly the height you want ( if using castration rings you keep them up the top of the pole to attach then slide down). I then go to the second pole and standing behind the net I do the clove hitch , attach it to the grommet and pull evenly until it is tight with the knot where the black mark was, is at the back of the grommet. Walk along all the poles attaching the bottom line to all the poles. I then go to one end and turn the pole over and stick it in the ground, follow on doing all the other poles until the net is turned over, remember to leave plenty slack to play with. Then make sure you stand behind the net again and repeat the process. Then the net is finished, correct bagging tied in. This is the nail knot, just for demo as I tie this on the ground. If you tie the bagging into the running line and the castration rings a rotten and you want to change them it is easy as the bagging is already tied in an the knot is the marker, grommets wont need changed as they don't rot. Hope this is worth reading and not a load of shite and Happy New Year everyone. found these pics using castration rings, 3 Quote Link to post
bullx100% 681 Posted December 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 27, 2013 Thank you very much for that mate that's very help full..when you say u tape up every mesh on the pole is this just on the end poles or every pole? Quote Link to post
lifelong cumbrian 1,826 Posted December 27, 2013 Report Share Posted December 27, 2013 Just the end poles mate, I don't like it dropping over the poles when you are lifting them. The intermediate poles are attached with just the grommet or castration rings or rubber bands, whatever you want to use. Any nets I have done lately have been set at 6yds, I made a new marker line, same process 2 Quote Link to post
bullx100% 681 Posted December 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 27, 2013 Ok mate cheers.when I was making my stoip nets I had the net drop over the end of the pole and its prity frustrating lol...cheers for your help pal Quote Link to post
threelander 81 Posted December 28, 2013 Report Share Posted December 28, 2013 nice twine that nets made out of joe Quote Link to post
lifelong cumbrian 1,826 Posted December 28, 2013 Report Share Posted December 28, 2013 nice twine that nets made out of joe Engels. 3 Quote Link to post
Phil Lloyd 10,738 Posted December 28, 2013 Report Share Posted December 28, 2013 (edited) An excellant,.informative and concise post,...many thanks for taking the trouble to show us. For me,..this is what a Hunting Man's forum should be all about,..education and helpful assistance, to enlighten and assist our fellow hunters. All the best, Phil. Oops a Daisy.... Edited December 28, 2013 by Phil Lloyd 5 Quote Link to post
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