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Splicing Tools For Running Lines


Joonsy

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Hi, what do you use for splicing your running lines, which you have to do when they get bitten through or when setting up a new net. I use a ''Ballpoint Bodkin'' as shown in photo below, i used to use a wool/darning needle but find the Ballpoint Bodkin much easier to use, i have also occasionally just used a bit of single-strand brass rabbit snare wire twisted into a loop which works just as well also shown in photo. Using the Ballpoint Bodkin is a slightly different technique to the wool needle because of the ballpoint end (though you could snip off the ballpoint if you wish), you do the technique in reverse. Though loosely woven hollow braid is easiest to splice some braid is woven much more tightly than others and the ballpoint bodkin is easier to use. There is something very similar and specifically made for the job of splicing in sailing called a ''splicing needle'', however it is virtually identical to a ballpoint bodkin except it has a looped eye instead of a ballpoint (like a miniature end pin) and a pointed end whereas a ballpoint bodkin has a flat spade-end (just file it to a dull point), however the sailing splicing needle costs a whacking £14 whereas the ballpoint bodkin costs £2.50 from sewing/tailoring shops.

 

splice016.jpg?t=1387366947

 

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I don't splice anymore, too much like hard work with nylon lines, I just sew the lines together 3 minutes tops for each join. I have one net here that is over 25 years old and the join is just as solid as the day it was made.

 

TC

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I have sewed as well but found sewed joins always snag the net a little and stop it from running freely along top line, especially if you get more than one sewed join in a short length. Using a wool needle is a pain and if braid is tightly woven even pliers may be needed, not so with a ballpoint bodkin it is very easy and i can splice nylon hollow braid in much less than three minutes and the finish is better and as smooth running as if no join existed at all.

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yes i would agree it is possible for single splices to work loose, when lines are not under tension, for that reason i always throw a half-a-dozen or so stitches of strong thread through the centre leaving ends of thread just sticking out loose for belt and braces so it can't happen. I used to sew joins a lot but found they caught the net no matter how i sewed, run my hand along join and it seemed perfectly smooth but slide net along and it often caught, one net ended up with a number of sewed joins in a short length and this catching started to get a nuisance especially on end winds when too much slack would be unable to run freely, i prefer to splice now myself but each has their own preferences of course. I have just spliced a line and timed it and it took me 2:49, however personally i think the time it takes is of no importance whatsoever, the required finish is all that matters whichever your pesonal choice. Regards.

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I know a few people who use bodkins but I just use sack needle's for splicing, I agree with what you say about them sometimes being a bit of a bugger and if I'm honest using a bodkin would be quicker but the time aspect for me is not that important and I might be stuck in my ways... Just a little bit. Good post. Mr Goodcat.

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I tried to splice lines the other day following this http://www.thehuntinglife.com/forums/topic/86720-splicing-nylon-twines/ but I couldn't for love nor money pull a doubled over strand up the centre of the other. I was tugging with mole grips the lot in the end I managed to get one end partly pulled up the centre and it was tight as hell so left it at that.

I used these needles to get it up the centre http://www.amazon.co.uk/Knitting-Wool-Sewing-Needles-Whitecroft/dp/B00BJM14YO/ref=sr_1_1?s=kitchen&ie=UTF8&qid=1387485427&sr=1-1&keywords=2+x+Knitting+Wool+Sewing+Needles+-+Whitecroft

Edited by terryd
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terry that braid in the picture is that crappy polypropylene rubbish ,, you could just melt each tag end and splice that crap without using a bodkin e.t.c. .. The Braid that You have will probably be 100% nylon 16 plait and as tight as a crabs arse :laugh: ..

A small incision with a sharp instrument will sort your problem though and save the blood , sweat and the bad language , keep the mole grips for the teeth :D..

Regards..

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I tried to splice lines the other day following this http://www.thehuntinglife.com/forums/topic/86720-splicing-nylon-twines/ but I couldn't for love nor money pull a doubled over strand up the centre of the other. I was tugging with mole grips the lot in the end I managed to get one end partly pulled up the centre and it was tight as hell so left it at that.

I used these needles to get it up the centre http://www.amazon.co.uk/Knitting-Wool-Sewing-Needles-Whitecroft/dp/B00BJM14YO/ref=sr_1_1?s=kitchen&ie=UTF8&qid=1387485427&sr=1-1&keywords=2+x+Knitting+Wool+Sewing+Needles+-+Whitecroft

 

there is a knack to splicing, notice how in those photos he has what looks about 1 inch-1.5 inches (judging by his thumb size) of line doubled back, that much doubled back makes it very hard to pull through. However too little doubled back and it simply won't hold and the line will just pull out of the eye. You need to double back the smallest amount of line that will be able to maintain its hold in the eye of needle. Also fluff the end of line up a little. Also you do not need to thread the entire thickness of the line through the needle, half is enough. See my photo below, fluff up about a centimetre of the end of line - insert about half of the thickness of it through the eye of your needle (or all if you wish) - leave only about one centimetre protruding out of eye of needle (experiment as too little will not hold, but too much will make operation difficult, about 1cm is right) - dampen protruding end with spittle etc to help lubricate action. Photo below shows end ready for splicing.

 

331bf137-3e9b-441b-8f8b-291c75ab71eb.jpg

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  • 1 month later...

I have never found the sewn joint to snag but I do taper the ends. Another factor is that a single splice can come apart, not when it is being pulled tight but when gentle pressure is applied to the join.

 

TC

 

 

Tiercel, Have you got any photos of how you sew the top line together, so that the net does not snag on the join.

 

Thank You

SINDASOX

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I have never found the sewn joint to snag but I do taper the ends. Another factor is that a single splice can come apart, not when it is being pulled tight but when gentle pressure is applied to the join.

 

TC

 

 

Tiercel, Have you got any photos of how you sew the top line together, so that the net does not snag on the join.

 

Thank You

SINDASOX

 

I hav'nt, but When out last week end I noticed a couple of stop nets that need sewing if it rains tomorrow I will do one and take some photos of how I do it.

 

i have also sewen them myself but i used a plastic replacement for the cotton so it didnt rot

Smithie, just use the thread on the top of bags of dog biscuits ect, 100% polyester will never rot and no need to double it up.

 

TC

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