Advice On Cocker

[Kevj 433]

I am new to working cocker spaniels and I beat one day a week on a local shoot.I have a bitch who is coming on well but now that she is getting faster through cover she is working too far in front of me.A beater on the shoot has told me to stop her with the whistle and catch up to her and set her off again,she stops every time no problem but does anyone have any advice for me on ways to keep her closer in to me.Cheers

[air gun ant 1,666]

I'm no expert an am finding the same problem as you, I'm just blowing the stop sooner, then recall and trying to get him to work a tighter pattern in front of me no more than 10-15 yards away quartering left and right. Keep an eye on the dog at all times and make it come to you, IMO you shouldn't be chasing your dog?

Atb with it and I look forward to others replys coz as I say I'm in the same boat at the moment this is just what I'm trying.

Good luck mate

[air gun ant 1,666]

Just to add my cockers a 17 month old dog and my first gun dog, so like I say I'm no expert lol

[Kevj 433]

When I wrote catch up to her I didn't mean I chase her,I stay level with the other beaters and when I am up to my bitch I cast her off again

[andy97 209]

I'm no expert an am finding the same problem as you, I'm just blowing the stop sooner, then recall and trying to get him to work a tighter pattern in front of me no more than 10-15 yards away quartering left and right. Keep an eye on the dog at all times and make it come to you, IMO you shouldn't be chasing your dog?

Atb with it and I look forward to others replys coz as I say I'm in the same boat at the moment this is just what I'm trying.

Good luck mate

ye just blow when he getting bit infront for you to catch up itll be hard to get a dog while hunting to try and stop in a 10yrd area its the handler that has to handle the dog a stop commad then get closer then carry him on thats all i did with mine and worked a treat the thing is they get into it and dont want to stop

[ftm 3,357]

cockers tend to want to be in front of every other dog and once in the working zone they are quite headstrong just keep your eyes open all times and peep dog back into you if you think its getting a bit carried away ,I would say"steady" with a stern voice and in time my bitch cottoned on with that command -best of luck lads -billy

[camokev64 36]

I am new to working cocker spaniels and I beat one day a week on a local shoot.I have a bitch who is coming on well but now that she is getting faster through cover she is working too far in front of me.A beater on the shoot has told me to stop her with the whistle and catch up to her and set her off again,she stops every time no problem but does anyone have any advice for me on ways to keep her closer in to me.Cheers

As in the majority of cases,when handler and dog come into the live game situation,the weaknesses in both will soon create a picture of how the handler has guided his/her dog through it`s initial informative months and subsequent training, basically your reaping the seeds you have sown.

But, what also can happen this time of year is that the dogs "polish" can also go off,in that i mean with the dog in constant work mode,handlers cannot correct their dogs on a full blown shoot day,my own dogs,no exception...I can`t really get out to a Lab when it`s pulling me on the whistle a few hundred yards away on a full blown shoot day.

The fact that it goes dark at 4pm does`nt help the working man,unfortunately you can`t train in the dark..!

Regards your Spaniel "pulling on you" could you tell me if you have structured anything into the dog`s training, regards hunting / and establishing a pattern.

 

Stick in..

Edited December 15, 2013 by camokev64

[Philluk 181]

Basic training is done on walks then put into practice on the field, if you walk your dog and he runs to far and you allow it then there is your issue, I use the word "steady" . On a walk in a wood and away from roads walk in a line then change direction, but don't tell the dog, make a small fuss of him and do it many times, he will learn to watch you a bit more, hide behind a tree as well. Then in an open field let the dog run and if he gets too far use the command steady and call him back. Play with a bit and use the direction change with a small whistle it's teaching the dog to look for you.

 

As you work once a week the dog will be keen and not experienced and is making the most of it, but pull it in a bit.

[Kevj 433]

 

I am new to working cocker spaniels and I beat one day a week on a local shoot.I have a bitch who is coming on well but now that she is getting faster through cover she is working too far in front of me.A beater on the shoot has told me to stop her with the whistle and catch up to her and set her off again,she stops every time no problem but does anyone have any advice for me on ways to keep her closer in to me.Cheers

 

As in the majority of cases,when handler and dog come into the live game situation,the weaknesses in both will soon create a picture of how the handler has guided his/her dog through it`s initial informative months and subsequent training, basically your reaping the seeds you have sown.

But, what also can happen this time of year is that the dogs "polish" can also go off,in that i mean with the dog in constant work mode,handlers cannot correct their dogs on a full blown shoot day,my own dogs,no exception...I can`t really get out to a Lab when it`s pulling me on the whistle a few hundred yards away on a full blown shoot day.

The fact that it goes dark at 4pm does`nt help the working man,unfortunately you can`t train in the dark..!

Regards your Spaniel "pulling on you" could you tell me if you have structured anything into the dog`s training, regards hunting / and establishing a pattern.

 

Stick in..

i am a novice admittedly and I am learning all the time.My bitch will stop straight away when I blow the stop whistle she has put up pheasant, woodcock,rabbit,hare and fox and stopped when I blow the whistle without exception.She works cover really well,turning when I pip, but the last few times I have been out she has been getting a bit too far ahead of me.The advice to stop her and catch up doesn't solve the issue I have of keeping her tighter to me,I have gone back to throwing tennis balls whilst out with her to get her finding things closer to me and she is staying tight but I will find out on Wednesday if it will work whilst beating.Any tips from more experienced beaters/triallers would be very welcome

[camokev64 36]

 

 

I am new to working cocker spaniels and I beat one day a week on a local shoot.I have a bitch who is coming on well but now that she is getting faster through cover she is working too far in front of me.A beater on the shoot has told me to stop her with the whistle and catch up to her and set her off again,she stops every time no problem but does anyone have any advice for me on ways to keep her closer in to me.Cheers

As in the majority of cases,when handler and dog come into the live game situation,the weaknesses in both will soon create a picture of how the handler has guided his/her dog through it`s initial informative months and subsequent training, basically your reaping the seeds you have sown.

But, what also can happen this time of year is that the dogs "polish" can also go off,in that i mean with the dog in constant work mode,handlers cannot correct their dogs on a full blown shoot day,my own dogs,no exception...I can`t really get out to a Lab when it`s pulling me on the whistle a few hundred yards away on a full blown shoot day.

The fact that it goes dark at 4pm does`nt help the working man,unfortunately you can`t train in the dark..!

Regards your Spaniel "pulling on you" could you tell me if you have structured anything into the dog`s training, regards hunting / and establishing a pattern.

 

Stick in..

i am a novice admittedly and I am learning all the time.My bitch will stop straight away when I blow the stop whistle she has put up pheasant, woodcock,rabbit,hare and fox and stopped when I blow the whistle without exception.She works cover really well,turning when I pip, but the last few times I have been out she has been getting a bit too far ahead of me.The advice to stop her and catch up doesn't solve the issue I have of keeping her tighter to me,I have gone back to throwing tennis balls whilst out with her to get her finding things closer to me and she is staying tight but I will find out on Wednesday if it will work whilst beating.Any tips from more experienced beaters/triallers would be very welcome

 

In normal circumstances the stop whistle has 2 functions,1st is to reinforce the sit command upon flush and act as the stop, before recall.I would strongly recommend that you continue on this path ( keep it simple ).

At the end of the day it`s the "scent" that the dog is pulling on and the eventual prize at the end of it,so we need to make you the release to the dogs eventual prize and instill in the dog that if you hunt under my structured pattern,i too can help you to that prize ( kid the dog on ).

The switch from tennis balls to the full blown shoot day senario,should of really had game training days / rabbit pen inserted in the transition period. Unfortunately alot of people do not have access to the a-fore mentioned and also are unable to correct on a full blown beating / shoot day due to safety reason`s.

One thing you can try is dragging a rabbit ( dead ) in a zig zag fashion , 5 yards either side of you,into the wind,say for 50 yards at a time..Bring the dog out of the van and procede to hunt the pattern 3 yards in front of you.Do not make eye contact with the dog directly and administer the correction when the dog goes out of the 3 yard boundary infront..But to be honest a rabbit pen is my preferred starter for pups in that it`s controlled..

Always remember to praise the dog ,just as much as you are willing to chastise at the same time,and practice practice practice. !!!

 

Stick in...

Edited December 16, 2013 by camokev64

[Kevj 433]

 

 

 

I am new to working cocker spaniels and I beat one day a week on a local shoot.I have a bitch who is coming on well but now that she is getting faster through cover she is working too far in front of me.A beater on the shoot has told me to stop her with the whistle and catch up to her and set her off again,she stops every time no problem but does anyone have any advice for me on ways to keep her closer in to me.Cheers

 

As in the majority of cases,when handler and dog come into the live game situation,the weaknesses in both will soon create a picture of how the handler has guided his/her dog through it`s initial informative months and subsequent training, basically your reaping the seeds you have sown.

But, what also can happen this time of year is that the dogs "polish" can also go off,in that i mean with the dog in constant work mode,handlers cannot correct their dogs on a full blown shoot day,my own dogs,no exception...I can`t really get out to a Lab when it`s pulling me on the whistle a few hundred yards away on a full blown shoot day.

The fact that it goes dark at 4pm does`nt help the working man,unfortunately you can`t train in the dark..!

Regards your Spaniel "pulling on you" could you tell me if you have structured anything into the dog`s training, regards hunting / and establishing a pattern.

 

Stick in..

i am a novice admittedly and I am learning all the time.My bitch will stop straight away when I blow the stop whistle she has put up pheasant, woodcock,rabbit,hare and fox and stopped when I blow the whistle without exception.She works cover really well,turning when I pip, but the last few times I have been out she has been getting a bit too far ahead of me.The advice to stop her and catch up doesn't solve the issue I have of keeping her tighter to me,I have gone back to throwing tennis balls whilst out with her to get her finding things closer to me and she is staying tight but I will find out on Wednesday if it will work whilst beating.Any tips from more experienced beaters/triallers would be very welcome

In normal circumstances the stop whistle has 2 functions,1st is to reinforce the sit command upon flush and act as the stop, before recall.I would strongly recommend that you continue on this path ( keep it simple ).

At the end of the day it`s the "scent" that the dog is pulling on and the eventual prize at the end of it,so we need to make you the release to the dogs eventual prize and instill in the dog that if you hunt under my structured pattern,i too can help you to that prize ( kid the dog on ).

The switch from tennis balls to the full blown shoot day senario,should of really had game training days / rabbit pen inserted in the transition period. Unfortunately alot of people do not have access to the a-fore mentioned and also are unable to correct on a full blown beating / shoot day due to safety reason`s.

One thing you can try is dragging a rabbit ( dead ) in a zig zag fashion , 5 yards either side of you,into the wind,say for 50 yards at a time..Bring the dog out of the van and procede to hunt the pattern 3 yards in front of you.Do not make eye contact with the dog directly and administer the correction when the dog goes out of the 3 yard boundary infront..But to be honest a rabbit pen is my preferred starter for pups in that it`s controlled..

Always remember to praise the dog ,just as much as you are willing to chastise at the same time,and practice practice practice. !!!

 

Stick in...

took her out today to a small field near me with patches of ferns,bramble and long grass and a few bunnies about.I cast her off and she took directional commands from me well,she worked fast but tight to me and knocked up a few bunnies stopping on command.I am under no illusion that the problem is solved but the work I put in with her this week is showing,just waiting for Wednesday now to she how she is with loads of birds about.No dog on the shoot is 100% all the time, but I want to train my bitch and myself as well as I can.Didn't realise how much work you have to continually put in to your dog, but I am really enjoying it

[camokev64 36]

Sounds like your making a fair stab at it,and the main thing that I can tell is that you like your bitch,which in turn creates a positive atmosphere for the dog..

The dog will also pull towards cover as well as scent,so be one step ahead of it.

The ideal that you are also trying to achieve is working the dog with the minimum of whistle,and as you are realising,you only get out, what you put in....

 

Stick in and keep it tight !