paulus 26 Posted November 20, 2013 Report Share Posted November 20, 2013 Hi all, had a look at the underside of the gun today - there are 3 screws, all into the metal that attaches the trigger guard to the stock. The screw right infront of the trigger came undone easy, but I can't budge the other two - they are stuck tight and I don't want to damage the heads on them. If my memory serves me correctly the front and rear screws in the trigger guard hold the stock to the metal, the other screw just helps hold the trigger guard in place. your memory is correct Quote Link to post
let'sshoot 11 Posted November 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2013 These are the two screws which are impossible to undo. Really don't want to force it and risk damaging the heads of the screws Thanks for confirming that I had tried the correct screws Quote Link to post
kenj 131 Posted November 20, 2013 Report Share Posted November 20, 2013 My CZ 452 in HMR was touching down the right hand side from new. I found a variation in accuracy, when aiming to the left on the bipod. This was probably only a few thou at the barrel, but an inch at 100 yards. I took off the stock and removed enough wood to allow a thick piece of card to freely pass round the barrel down to the receiver. No more problems. More rabbits shot yesterday at 120 yards. As Dekers said an alternative is to raise the whole action on spacers. I wasn't that clever. It was a long time ago and I don't remember any issues with screws. Quote Link to post
dadioles 68 Posted November 21, 2013 Report Share Posted November 21, 2013 These are the two screws which are impossible to undo. Really don't want to force it and risk damaging the heads of the screws Thanks for confirming that I had tried the correct screws Whether or not screw tension is one of the issues remains to be seen but sooner or later those screws are going to have to be removed. They may be slightly corroded or just over tightened but you really do need to get them out. Make sure the screwdriver is a perfect fit for the screw and try and hold the gun in a vice to leave both hands free to hold the screwdriver. Using the correct size screwdriver for the screw head is half the battle. Unfortunately using penetrating oil to try and help release the thread might stain the wood. If you were to damage the screw, they can be replaced with new ones. Quote Link to post
Deker 3,478 Posted November 22, 2013 Report Share Posted November 22, 2013 These are the two screws which are impossible to undo. Really don't want to force it and risk damaging the heads of the screws Thanks for confirming that I had tried the correct screws Whether or not screw tension is one of the issues remains to be seen but sooner or later those screws are going to have to be removed. They may be slightly corroded or just over tightened but you really do need to get them out. Make sure the screwdriver is a perfect fit for the screw and try and hold the gun in a vice to leave both hands free to hold the screwdriver. Using the correct size screwdriver for the screw head is half the battle. Unfortunately using penetrating oil to try and help release the thread might stain the wood. If you were to damage the screw, they can be replaced with new ones. They are odd size screw heads, wide but narrow slot, perhaps engineers or gunsmiths screwdrivers are required. Try and take care, replacements are not cheap. Despite having a good toolbox I had nothing close, so I bought a large Flat head screwdriver from the market £1, and ground the head for a snug fit! Quote Link to post
let'sshoot 11 Posted November 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2013 Thanks for the replies pals, the screws remain tightly in place at this moment in time, but I know that they will have to budge soon, I don't want to risk staining the wood, nor damaging the heads if the replacement will be expensive, will ask some engineering buddies if they have a snugger fitting screwdriver. Will keep you posted on the progress Quote Link to post
Hawkeye. 26 Posted November 22, 2013 Report Share Posted November 22, 2013 Using a electric soldering iron placed on the screw head you can heat the screw . That might help in loosening the screw Quote Link to post
Barrel 1 Posted November 23, 2013 Report Share Posted November 23, 2013 Hello All, I am a pro Gunsmith here in the U.S.A. If I was you I would get a set off gunsmithing screw drivers set which is made for firearms. The ones I used all the time are call grace . Please don't use any screw drivers that you have around the house these wont fit the screw wright and can do more damage. I have seen firearms that have been butchered up with people doing their fixes on firearms. Please be careful what you do with your firearm. If need more help please let me know. Hope this helps you Quote Link to post
let'sshoot 11 Posted November 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2013 Hi all, just an update on floating my cz452 - job done now after finally getting my hands on a screwdriver which fit properly. Upon separating the stock and metal i could tell that sanding was not going to be the answer. How many of us chop the corner off a door which won't close properly??! At the rear of the barrel there is an adjuster, designed to slide, left to right, vice versa, under the rear of the barrel which then means that you leave the fore end of the barrel free floating. My barrel was touching on the right hand side, so I just put the rifle on its left side, tightened the screws back up, and hey presto!! Couldn't be more pleased with my handy work. I can now pass a £10 note between the wood and metal with ease all the way up to the action. Thanks to you all for the advice along the way. Quote Link to post
Deker 3,478 Posted November 25, 2013 Report Share Posted November 25, 2013 Hi all, just an update on floating my cz452 - job done now after finally getting my hands on a screwdriver which fit properly. Upon separating the stock and metal i could tell that sanding was not going to be the answer. How many of us chop the corner off a door which won't close properly??! At the rear of the barrel there is an adjuster, designed to slide, left to right, vice versa, under the rear of the barrel which then means that you leave the fore end of the barrel free floating. My barrel was touching on the right hand side, so I just put the rifle on its left side, tightened the screws back up, and hey presto!! Couldn't be more pleased with my handy work. I can now pass a £10 note between the wood and metal with ease all the way up to the action. Thanks to you all for the advice along the way. Its not exactly rocket science when you get them apart is it, frankly they are basic engineering! Keep an eye on it, the wooden stocks do move, hot/cold/wet/fog/frost etc.! Its an idea to take them apart now and again to clean and get a thin film of oil over the hidden metalwork. Trigger now hey! Quote Link to post
fiona22 0 Posted November 25, 2013 Report Share Posted November 25, 2013 (edited) Will be doing my trigger soon Edited November 25, 2013 by fiona22 Quote Link to post
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