Reloading Tips According To Dicehorn #20

[dicehorn 38]

Primer Pockets

 

 

We all know that it essential to clean primer pockets out to remove the carbon caused by the detonation of the primer. Most will use one of those tools that are composed of around 30 lengths of wire so we can spin it around to remove this carbon. However, were you aware that upon subsequent firings there is always a flow of brass both forward (that's why we full length or shoulder bump) and backwards. The flow backwards is the headstamp being stopped by the bolt face............. however the bolt face has no impact on the primer pocket and so there is flow in this area.

 

When the depth of the primer pocket starts to reduce, we cannot see it - yes we know that the depth on small cases should be 122 thou and on large 131 thou. but if it creeps forward we will not know the difference as our primers will still go in ok and sink below the headstamp level as required......but are they actually going in ok? What is happening is that something has to give when trying to seat the primer into a shorter depth of hole (say 116 thou or 127 thou) is that the bottom of the primer will crumple to fit the pocket.

 

Now this all may well have little consequence on cases that are fired 5 or 6 times before being binned but for others who get significantly more reloads, it is something that should be addressed. I have no wish for reloaders to spent money, but if there is just one reloader who thinks his Tikka, Howa or Ruger could be better, then I would suggest the purchase of a K & M Pocket priming tool. This tool is set to the given depth of small or large cases and will each time put your case back to the recommended pocket depth. In the picture (1& 2) are the small & large rifle cutters with 3 being the handle. The cutters can be fixed to a cordless drill for those who insist on using mechanical means.

 

 

In the piccy below hopefully you can see the right case has been just cleaned with a wire brush and whilst it looks reasonable clean, all that the brush has achieved is removing (most of) the carbon residue. The case on the left has been uniformed and as such the carbon has been removed and maybe a thou of brass removed to put the pocket back to its original depth. Oh and just one other thing - there is generally never any need to scrape the inside of the flash hole - making it bigger is very much a no no as it could cause catastrophic consequences.