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Any Stove Experts Out There?


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Our Wood Burning Stove is starting to play up, and have been looking at a replacement, but they are NOT Cheap. So....

 

The main 'body' of the stove is cracked in all 4 corners of the door aperture, is it worth welding?

The door seals are a bit poor, but think the replacement rope is not dear.

There appears to be a HUGE amout of soot getting into the void around the boiler tanks (which I'm told shouldn't be happening), so is it easy enough to replace the soot box which I'm assuming is the culprit? Could I crawl up the chimney to do this, or how are they in there in the 1st place?

 

It has recently (over the last 2 years) got increasingly more 'smokey' when you open the doors to feed it, but this kinda ties in with when we got new windows in...Now, I have heard that this can effect the fire due to lack of draught etc.??

 

Ideally, as an alternative I would like to strip it bare, shot blast it and re-assemble.

Would this be possible / reccommended / even considered? If so, what materials would I need for re-assembly, ie sealers etc.

 

 

Nearly £3k +VAT to replace the stove :icon_eek: + New Fireplace / Surround to suit!

 

Any advice / words of wisdom will be appreciated.

 

Cheers :thumbs:

 

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get the cracks welde, get the rope seals replaced ( piece of piss and cheap, ebay, stoveshop uk or something like that), and one thing that you havent mentioned, get the feckin chimney swept ffs. The sootbox is normall only called that as an access point so you can remove your excess soot and sweep the chimney. As a very cheap alternative as well as all the others, get a stainless steel flue liner from the back of your stove ( or top depending on situation) and run a single length to the outlet. You do all of these and it#ll draw like a port talbot blast furnace, but make sure you weld all the cracks up and put the ropes in to be able to control the draw.

 

Hope this helps

 

PS

 

I am no expert but have my own stove and experiences in the past. Your stove should do what you want it to, when you want it to, not when it ses fit to perform..

 

All the above options will cost bugger all in comparison to a new stove.

 

 

B

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get the cracks welde, get the rope seals replaced ( piece of piss and cheap, ebay, stoveshop uk or something like that), and one thing that you havent mentioned, get the feckin chimney swept ffs. The sootbox is normall only called that as an access point so you can remove your excess soot and sweep the chimney. As a very cheap alternative as well as all the others, get a stainless steel flue liner from the back of your stove ( or top depending on situation) and run a single length to the outlet. You do all of these and it#ll draw like a port talbot blast furnace, but make sure you weld all the cracks up and put the ropes in to be able to control the draw.

 

Hope this helps

 

PS

 

I am no expert but have my own stove and experiences in the past. Your stove should do what you want it to, when you want it to, not when it ses fit to perform..

 

All the above options will cost bugger all in comparison to a new stove.

 

 

B

 

We have had Chimney swept. :thumbs:

 

Thinking there's a problem in there somewhere causing the soot to get behind the boiler tanks.

Never even heard of soot box 'till about a week ago.

 

Current stove is a cracker, and not keen on forking out for a new one.

Cheers,

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It has recently (over the last 2 years) got increasingly more 'smokey' when you open the doors to feed it, but this kinda ties in with when we got new windows in...Now, I have heard that this can effect the fire due to lack of draught etc.??

 

 

What's the output of your stove? If they're over a certain amount you have to have a certain vent fitted to the room allow air into it. It's law in England and Wales, don't know about Scotland because the laws are different when it comes to stoves.. :thumbs:

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It has recently (over the last 2 years) got increasingly more 'smokey' when you open the doors to feed it, but this kinda ties in with when we got new windows in...Now, I have heard that this can effect the fire due to lack of draught etc.??

 

What's the output of your stove? If they're over a certain amount you have to have a certain vent fitted to the room allow air into it. It's law in England and Wales, don't know about Scotland because the laws are different when it comes to stoves.. :thumbs:

 

It's about 20Kw I believe, she's a big one!

When I discussed it with the chimney sweeping manny, he thought it may be onto the better fitting / sealing windows, and thought it may need an additional vent.

Suppose the quick test for that would be to sit with a window open.

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yes it would mate, 20kw !!!!! f**k me, thats a belter. If it is the solution, fitting an air brick / vent isnt a major prob by any means, and it would let your stove breathe a bit easier. But i would certainly do the seals etc whilst your at the job, improve efficiency no end.

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20Kw is a big bugger

 

I have a 12Kw Hamlet (identical to the Stratford but way cheaper) Comes in at a grand, for the boiler stove version.

 

Pretty sure the repairs would be easy, but could you get the boiler recertified, pressure tested ?

 

The soot is probably because you have the same problem as me,, Keeping the bloody thing cool enough. They are designed to run hot and efficient, but big boiler stoves sometimes need choked back to stop them boiling the whole system, so you end up with lots of soot and creosote

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20Kw is a big bugger

 

I have a 12Kw Hamlet (identical to the Stratford but way cheaper) Comes in at a grand, for the boiler stove version.

 

Pretty sure the repairs would be easy, but could you get the boiler recertified, pressure tested ?

 

The soot is probably because you have the same problem as me,, Keeping the bloody thing cool enough. They are designed to run hot and efficient, but big boiler stoves sometimes need choked back to stop them boiling the whole system, so you end up with lots of soot and creosote

correct chief, and also , they go through wood like hell in the night. Mine is a stovax 9kw with a fitted back boiler, i find get the heat up, then top her up and shut the vents at the bottom, because of the airwash system that keeps the glass clean, its sufficient to feed it enough air to function just right.

 

Come the end of the week when the temperature is meant to nose dive, these little miracles come into their own lol

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20Kw is a big bugger

 

I have a 12Kw Hamlet (identical to the Stratford but way cheaper) Comes in at a grand, for the boiler stove version.

 

Pretty sure the repairs would be easy, but could you get the boiler recertified, pressure tested ?

 

The soot is probably because you have the same problem as me,, Keeping the bloody thing cool enough. They are designed to run hot and efficient, , so you end up with lots of soot and creosote

but big boiler stoves sometimes need choked back to stop them boiling the whole system

 

 

Rake aboot, have you thought of running a couple of rads off it as well ?? with a pipe stat on to kck the pump on when it reaches a pre set temperature ? thats what i have on mine, always a tank of hot water here and when it hits 70 degrees in the pipe leading to the tank, the pump kicks in and sends the hot water from the back boiler around the system till it has cooled down a bit. Works a treat.

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It's a b**tard to feed!

It takes 3 wheelbarrow fulls of sticks a day. :icon_eek:

 

It is a great thing, was in the house when we bought it.

Works all the radiators and does the hot water too.

 

There is a maze of plumbing in the loft.

 

Bought an artic load of trees and got a guy with a processor to cut and split them, Good days work, but no more f**kin about with the power saw. By the time you fuel up the saw, keep the blade sharp, buy 2 stroke, etc etc...it worked out better doing it that way. One days Graft and it was all over.

 

Saved a Tankfull (1200Ltr) of Gas last winter, so load of sticks nearly covered, but 1/2 way through them already.

 

Thanks for suggestions. :thumbs:

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20Kw is a big bugger

 

I have a 12Kw Hamlet (identical to the Stratford but way cheaper) Comes in at a grand, for the boiler stove version.

 

Pretty sure the repairs would be easy, but could you get the boiler recertified, pressure tested ?

 

The soot is probably because you have the same problem as me,, Keeping the bloody thing cool enough. They are designed to run hot and efficient, , so you end up with lots of soot and creosote

but big boiler stoves sometimes need choked back to stop them boiling the whole system

 

 

Rake aboot, have you thought of running a couple of rads off it as well ?? with a pipe stat on to kck the pump on when it reaches a pre set temperature ? thats what i have on mine, always a tank of hot water here and when it hits 70 degrees in the pipe leading to the tank, the pump kicks in and sends the hot water from the back boiler around the system till it has cooled down a bit. Works a treat.

 

 

 

It feeds a thermal store and the central heating pump kicks in when the temp hits 85 deg,, but until it gets cold enough, the house is too warm with the thing running at full tilt.

 

The feed to the store is a gravity system but the store water runs all the radiators, as well as heating my instant hot water. All good stuff, and that's before you factor in the solar thermal panels.

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It's a b**tard to feed!

It takes 3 wheelbarrow fulls of sticks a day. :icon_eek:

 

It is a great thing, was in the house when we bought it.

Works all the radiators and does the hot water too.

 

There is a maze of plumbing in the loft.

 

Bought an artic load of trees and got a guy with a processor to cut and split them, Good days work, but no more f**kin about with the power saw. By the time you fuel up the saw, keep the blade sharp, buy 2 stroke, etc etc...it worked out better doing it that way. One days Graft and it was all over.

 

Saved a Tankfull (1200Ltr) of Gas last winter, so load of sticks nearly covered, but 1/2 way through them already.

 

Thanks for suggestions. :thumbs:

 

Sounds like a thermal store bud

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It has recently (over the last 2 years) got increasingly more 'smokey' when you open the doors to feed it, but this kinda ties in with when we got new windows in...Now, I have heard that this can effect the fire due to lack of draught etc.??

 

What's the output of your stove? If they're over a certain amount you have to have a certain vent fitted to the room allow air into it. It's law in England and Wales, don't know about Scotland because the laws are different when it comes to stoves.. :thumbs:

It's about 20Kw I believe, she's a big one!

When I discussed it with the chimney sweeping manny, he thought it may be onto the better fitting / sealing windows, and thought it may need an additional vent.

Suppose the quick test for that would be to sit with a window open.

That ain't a stove, its a f*****g furnace! :laugh: I've got a 7kw one and it makes the room far too hot when the vents are fully open, god knows what yours must be like! :laugh:

 

Do you need one of these to put logs on it when it's hot??

 

post-8371-0-74364400-1381173860_thumb.jpg

 

:laugh:

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